Hi ya'll, well it's getting closer and closer till I'll be a VA FTE member. I'm kinda curious as to how stupid the emissions and inspections laws have gotten down there since I left in '95.
Coriuos as to know what kinds of mods I can get away with on my '06 PSD as far as the exhaust system goes. How often do you all have to get your rigs inspected, what will pass and won't (ie off road lights, ect.) I imagine some inspection stations let "slide' and others won't. I mainly will be operating my vehicle around the Martinsville area and living in Floyd County. Basically staying in the "hills" for the most part...few trips to the outer banks, ect.
Thanks for the input...Chris
Oh yea one more thing...any dealership recomendations for service and warranty work to would be great!!

 

Welcome back, down here in Stuart there is no emmissions testing.Once a year insp. and don't forget annual-rip-off decal. As far as dealers go..Some of the people I know here go to one in Christiansburg. www.dmvnow.com I think will give you a link to insp. (done through state police dept)

 

i thought diesels don't get emissions..

 

Don't know about deisels, but in NoVA they have emissions testing. Down here they don't, and out west they don't as well. I won't be surprised (mad, but not surprised ) when testing comes down this way. Suppossedly this part of East coast has some of the worst smog, or acid rain or something

Check out the DMV link GLR provided, has all the info you'll need.

As far as inspections go, the small family owned stores are pretty good on inspections. Most all exhuast mods will pass as long it doesn't leak, and you have functioning factory emissions stuff hooked up. Offroad lights have to be disconnected last time I checked.

Here's the official list o' stuff to check:

Virginia Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Program
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The Required Official Inspection Procedure, as approved by the Virginia State Police Superintendent, is as follows:

REQUIRED OFFICIAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE

Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Inspection Manual":

1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER.

2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE.

3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR:

Worn, damaged or missing parts.

Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums.

Leaks in system, proper fluid level.

Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or discs.
(NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the official inspection manual for exceptions.)

4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR:

Broken or missing parts.

Proper adjustment.

Standard factory equipment or equivalent.

5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:

Approved type, aim, and output.

Condition of lamp, wiring and switch.

Beam indicator.

6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:

Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.

Aim of fog and driving lamps.

Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.
(NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. Count load in measuring.)

7. – INSPECT SIGNAL DEVICE FOR:

Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.

Correct indications and tell-tale (visual or audible).

Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.

8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR: (Jack up front end as shown in Manual)

Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends.

Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm.

Play in steering wheel.

Wheel alignment and axle alignment.

Broken spring leaves, and worn shackles.

Shock absorbers.

Broken frame.

Broken or missing engine mounts.

Lift blocks.

9. – INSPECT TIRES, WHEELS & RIMS FOR:

Condition of tires including tread depth.

Mixing radials and bias ply tires.

Wheels that are cracked or damaged so as to affect safe operation.

10. – INSPECT MIRROR FOR:

Rigidity of mounting.

Condition of reflecting surface.

View of road to rear (Truck mirrors must extend at least halfway beyond edge of body) – (Visibility 200 feet to rear).

11. – INSPECT HORN FOR:

Electrical connections, mounting and horn button.

Emits sound audible for a minimum of 200 feet.

12. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD AND OTHER GLASS FOR:

Approved type safety glass.

Cloudiness, distortion or other obstruction to vision.

Cracked, scratched or broken glass.

Stickers. ALL UNAUTHORIZED STICKERS MUST BE REMOVED.

Sunshading material attached to the windshield to ensure it does not extend more than 3 inches downward from the top of windshield, unless authorized by Medical Waiver Certificate.

Operation of left front door glass.

13. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD WIPER/DEFROSTER FOR:

Operating condition.

Condition of blade.

14. – INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:

Exhaust line-manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc.

Leakage of gases at any point from motor to point discharged from system.

15. – INSPECT LICENSE TAGS FOR:

Illumination of rear plate.

16. – INSPECT HOOD AND AREA UNDER THE HOOD FOR:

Operating condition of hood latch.

Presence of emissions system -Evidence that any essential parts have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected.

Fluid levels that are below the proper level
1. Brake fluid.
2. Power steering fluid.

Power steering belt - proper tension, wear, or absence.

17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM (1973 and Subsequent Models) FOR:

Installation.

Operation.
(NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)

18. – INSPECT DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

Anchorage.

Location.

Condition.

19. – INSPECT SEAT BELTS FOR:

Approved type.

Installation.

20. – INSPECT DOORS AT THE RIGHT & LEFT SIDE OF THE DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

Handle or opening device which will permit the opening of the door from the outside and inside of the vehicle.

Latching system which will hold door in its proper closed position.

21. – INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM FOR:

Any part that is not securely fastened.

Liquid fuel leakage.

Fuel tank filler cap for presence.

22. – INSPECT FLOOR PAN FOR:

(a) Holes which allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment.
(b) Conditions which create a hazard to the occupants.

23. – ISSUE STICKER:

(a) If approved, place approval sticker on the vehicle, and give pink copy of certificate to operator.
(b) ALL DEFECTS MUST BE CORRECTED AND THE VEHICLE REINSPECTED WITHIN 15 DAYS.

THE DRIVER MAY BE IN JEOPARDY OF RECEIVING A SUMMONS FOR ANY DEFECT STILL

PRESENT ANY TIME THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED ON THE HIGHWAY.

(NOTE: The validity period of the rejection sticker shall include fifteen (15) days in addition to the day of the inspection.)

 

So I gather that a exhuast system is okay as long as my cat stays in place and intact?? I'm considering a system to get that truly awesome jet engine sound....
BTW....thanks for the link and all the useful info guys.....

 

as far as exhausts go, uh, if a police officer thinks your truck is too loud, you can get a ticket.. there is no test for DB level or loudness.. stupid cops... gave me a ticket for my car, and it's quieter than a new vette.. oh well.. heheheee.

 

As long as your off-road lights have covers on them while you are on the street...you will be fine. A friend (former-friend) of mine has 4 KC's on his Jeep and has been just fine with them. Same with my other friend's 'Yota....

 

Sounds good...say ATC Crazy...look like your gonna be the closest one to where I'm gonna be moving too...I will be living in Willis, VA....have about 30 acres, tucked back in the woods off Burks Hollow Rd.....have a fantastic view of Buffalo Mtn..............
Just curious if I'd get much hassling over a MBRP exhaust system..... love that jet engine sound you get from it, but don't wanna pay the price for it to the 'state' if you know what I mean. I will probably wind up working in the roanoke area also....looking for work in the construction trade that pays decent...

 

That sounds great Willie! There are two Willis, Virginia's....one in Floyd county and one in Russel. Which one are you moving to? Looks like a long drive to Roanoke though.

As far as the exhaust...I dont think Ive ever heard an MBRP system. But if you can stand right next to the tail pipe and carry on a conversation without having to significantly raise your voice...you should be fine. A friend of mine has an '86 Chebbie with a built (400HP) 350, running true duals, no cats, and Gorlic race mufflers...and he's never been stopped before.

Next week, Im gunna talk to some shops and see what it would cost for headers, and Flowmaster race mufflers (or the Gorlic race mufflers...they sound awesome!). I'll probably be ditching the cats if it is still too quiet for me.

 

Willis in Floyd County. Yep, long drive to Roanoke. My route from up here will shoot me into Hillsville, then ist's just a short drive into Willis. looking forward to getting back down there in some ways and in other ways I'm gonna miss this place.... But least I know I've got 2 choices for a vacation....the cheap route...Ocracoke Island or for a REAL vacation....come back up here fora couple of weeks.

 

Stuart is close to Willis.

 

There is no emissions testing for diesels in VA.

You can have as many lights as you want as long as they're covered.

Technically glasspacks and straight-through mufflers won't pass VA inspection, but if it looks like a standard muffler or a professional installation, you're OK. Exhaust has to exit 8 inches behind the passenger cabin, minimum.

They will get upset if you remove your cat, even though there's no testing. There's a federal law about it, too. But a safety inspection would never detect a disabled EGR or a gutted cat. EGR on diesels, combined with PCV is a terrible invention. Any recirculated soot combines with the oily crankcase vapors and coats your intake.

There's a double standard in NoVA, at least. If it looks like you've done something to it, they'll go over it with a fine tooth comb. They actually put my Mazda on a lift and went over the exhaust with a bare hand looking for leaks. All of my old diesel Mercedes have gone through with huge exhaust leaks, well, because nobody hot-rods a 20 year old Mercedes, right?

 

Your right GLR...I didn't even notice that your in Stuart Take 58 and run right up the mountain,and then either pick up the BRP or follow the back roads. Also pick up rt. 8 outside of Stuart and run up the mountain. and before hitting floyd take the short cut thru Shelors Mill and dump into rt. 221.
I haven't driven thru Stuart in years. I pretty much avoided 58 due to all the road construction. Did they ever get a by-pass around Stuart built or do you still have to drive thru it??
I tend to just use the 221/8/57 route to rundown to Martinsville. Seems like an easier drive to me.

 

Yes the by-pass is done, but not a 4 lane where 58 and 8 meet just about a mile short. Other than that it is 4 lane into M'ville. 57 isn't too bad a drive, you can stop in Elamsville and see what Clyde Turner has for sale or hit Pilson's. There is supposed to be a junk yard around Floyd that I want to hit, the guy is only there on Sat. George