at the ripe old age 24 I learned that
there are various ways of skin a cat, a farmer/
mechanic friend told a me a way of freeing stuck nuts and
bolts, he said to use OIL-OF-WINTERGREEN on them,
only use a drop or two (more is not better)then
take a coffee break for about 10-15 min. they the
nuts and bolts will come right off.
1969 F100, 300 rv cam, heddmans,
4bbl offy manifold, K&N filter,
3 ontree, 4.11soon to have ford
overdrive, longbed.
PB blaster is great stuff. we use it on everything. we get it at carquest though, I believe it is cheaper. that and we get a 60% discount at carquest, so that doesn't hurt.
Yah, WD40 and the like is good for regular rusty hardware, but that PB Blaster stuff is the best for the old and rusty stuff! I use it on my '50 F1 and '78 F150. Just don't let it sit on your skin for too long. Very potent stuff.
I have never heard, or used PB blaster. The best I have ever used is Nut Buster by a company called Wynns. The stuff works so good because when you put it on it foams up, and it works it way around as the foamy bubbles break. I have had parts that were tigh or seized, and a little bit of this and the rust pours out.
We have a salesman at work that supplies it. Wynns makes other chemicals like rad flushes, oil additives, and injector cleaners. I have seen their other products in local parts stores, But I have never paid attention to see if the penatrating fluid is sold there.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Feb-02 AT 10:12 AM (EST)]I never heard of PB blaster I just buy a cheap spray bottle from the store and fill it with ATF or Brake fluid and it works great ATF and brake fluid are some of the best penetrating oils out there
Kroil is great! I get the gallons and use a hand pump sprayer.
It's normally available only by mail, but well worth it, especially if you have a shop.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Another thing that works for bustin loose rusted bolts is a very common thing-cocacola. It's a mild corrosive and eats the rust away. Imagine what it does to yer stomach. That's why beer's better.
This tip was posted by Hammerman3406 in another topic. It is a great idea.
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The easiest and slickest way to deal with rusted-in bolts, regardless of where they are is as follows;
1. find a candle....yes, an ordinary candle from the kitchen drawer
2. get a torch. acetylene or mapp work best, but propane will do
3. heat the metal AROUND the offending bolt as hot as is practical.
4. feed the candle into the threads untill the wax quits melting
5. repeat 3&4 a couple of times
6. use an easy out or a pair of pliers (if a stub is left...)
Quit cussing these situations and start acting like a hero because you know this trick. most of the time, the bolts will come out with finger effort! this uses the same principle as sweating copper fittings, and will clean and lubricate the threads to the point that removal is too easy. if this works for you, email me at hammermn(No Email Addresses In Posts!). I always love a success story. good luck.
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This would probably work with stuck rusted in shafts and maybe pulleys etc.
Re-Posted by Torque1st, with permission.
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"Beam me up Scotty. There's no intelligent life down here..."
Castle use to make a product called Thrust that would free just about anything. When I had my 78 F150 I broke a reaer spring and had to get the bolts out after 12 years in the New York salt and water I figured that the only way to get them off was going to be with the hot wrench but I sprayed some of that Thrust on them and let them sit for a little bit. I spun them off with an impact no prob after that. Good stuff. Works well on trailer hitch balls too.
Brad Godkin
1986 F350 XLT
CC/SRW 6.9 auto
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Brad Godkin
1986 F350 XLT
CC/SRW 6.9 auto
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at the ripe old age 24 I learned that
