nut and bolts freeing agent

[Brian460]

Aero Kroil is probaly some of the best stuff out there. I always get mine from the Power Plants I work at. All of the ones I have been to in Kansas, Missouri, Iowa, and Nebraska use it and nothing else. Brian:P

[scott w smith]

Aero-Kroil is the greatest. It works so good that the U.S. Navy outlawed it. I buy mine at WestBay auto in Washington State. A bit expensive but well worth the cost.

[pcmenten]

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Aug-02 AT 11:52 PM (EST)]> at the ripe old age 24 I learned that
>there are various ways of skin a cat, a farmer/
>mechanic friend told a me a way of freeing stuck nuts and
>bolts, he said to use OIL-OF-WINTERGREEN on them,
>only use a drop or two (more is not better)then
>take a coffee break for about 10-15 min. they the
>nuts and bolts will come right off.

Oil-of-Wintergreen must be wicked stuff. They use it in Marvel Mystery Oil. I wonder if a fella couldn't just buy that stuff and add it to his gas and oil to help keep things clean. I suppose it would be prudent to dilute it in kerosene or diesel fuel.

[Ken2600]

I've used Thrust too. I bought it at a local garage after watching them use it with great success. I don't know where to buy it now though because I don't think they use it anymore. My can of thrust is almost empty so I'll probably pick up a can of PB next.

[ssparks]

With 27 years as a mechanic and shop owner I have used everything mentioned here and more. Since I tried Kroil I have used nothing else. Time is money in a shop and broken bolts take time. Kroil is #1 bar none!!!

[mikester]

I "free em" with fire, it's fast

[bilder12]

Rust Bomb by Conklin has worked for me. Usually individual dealers supply the stuff. Rust Bomb walks along the threads. Also Kroil really walks up the bolts. Everyone has their favorites, look at Mom, she definitely has a favorite.
Happy Holidays

[V10KLZZ71S]

aero-kroll-nothing even comes close!-nothing!i acquire it off the rig.

[Torque1st]

I have used the "Candle Trick" mentioned above on numerous occasions now and it has worked well every time, even when PB Blaster and heat alone would not. You just heat a little, wax, heat, wax, and you are done! I will get a can of Kroil and compare.


Thanks for using FTE!




[font color=red]As a Moderator I do not "Subscribe" to most topics,
please send email/pm if you need a reply -Thanks![/font]
-

[pward76]

>This tip was posted by Hammerman3406 in another topic. It is
>a great idea.
>
>>
>The easiest and slickest way to deal with rusted-in bolts,
>regardless of where they are is as follows;
>1. find a candle....yes, an ordinary candle from the kitchen
>drawer
>2. get a torch. acetylene or mapp work best, but propane
>will do
>3. heat the metal AROUND the offending bolt as hot as is
>practical.
>4. feed the candle into the threads untill the wax quits
>melting
>5. repeat 3&4 a couple of times
>6. use an easy out or a pair of pliers (if a stub is
>left...)
>
>Quit cussing these situations and start acting like a hero
>because you know this trick. most of the time, the bolts
>will come out with finger effort! this uses the same
>principle as sweating copper fittings, and will clean and
>lubricate the threads to the point that removal is too easy.
>if this works for you, email me at hammermn(No Email Addresses In Posts!). I
>always love a success story. good luck.
>>
>
>This would probably work with stuck rusted in shafts and
>maybe pulleys etc.
>
>
>Re-Posted by Torque1st,
>[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|FTE Moderator]
>Fix it right the first time! It's easier than doing it over!
>
>Then- Drive 'em forever!


I have a quick question. I was planning on trying this trick on my exhaust manifold bolts, but I got to wondering if it leaves some of the wax up in the threads of the head? I suppose I could use the torch to heat the area after the bolts are out to melt the wax, and then chase the threads, or spray some carb cleaner into the holes to eat the wax.. or am I "overthinking" again?

[1970f2504x4]

[airharley]

Try to wick it out with a piece of cotton clothes line. Besides if you heat wax up enough it will burn.

[pward76]

I figured that, I just wanted to confirm it. After reading some about bolt tension and stuff like that, I was concerned that a light coating of wax in the threads would give false torque numbers when putting bolts back in..

Thanks!

[Torque1st]

I burn the wax off if the application calls for torque specs. Unfortunately if the fasteners are rusted together bad enough you may want to look at replacement since the torque values on rough surfaces would not be accurate. Chasing the threads is always a good idea.

[Vipond]

Hey, be carefull with fire. Up north where rust is a way of life. I learned of heat to loosen most anything and at a very young age became proficient with a torch. But down here in central Texas it is not a too common skill.

Job and family pressures forced me to take my "Parade Car" to the local dealer. Being new in town I didnt want to trust just anybody. Needed a good tune up, shocks, etc. A good once over. Dealer finished everything, saving the shocks for last as these had to be ordered.

Two days after leaving the car with them I got a call from the service manager informing me that they had totaled my car due to a fire caused by the mechanic not knowing how to loosen rusty nuts with a torch.

It had caught fire while on a lift and by the time it was discovered and lowered it was too late. I always wanted smoked windows but this went a little too far.

Needless to say they hunted far and wide to replace my "Parade Car". Took two months, many phone calls and threatened legal action.

Like any tool, BE CAREFUL with the fire.