New Crane Cams Electronic Distributor/Ignition
#1
New Crane Cams Electronic Distributor/Ignition
<hr style="color: rgb(102, 102, 102);" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> I've just about completed installing the new Crane Cams electronic distributor, Hi-6 CD ignition and LX 92 coil in my 1980 F-350 4x4 400 auto, totally eliminating the entire Duraspark II ignition. The only snag I've encountered is with the stock 1.1 ohm resistor wire providing current to the coil in the run position. The Crane ignition needs full current in the run position so somehow the 1.1 ohm resistor wire needs to be bypassed or eliminated with a full current wire.
According to my 1980 wiring diagram, there are TWO wires leading from the run position at the ignition switch going to the ignition, one is the 1.1 ohm resistor wire to the coil and the other is a non-resistor wire and goes directly to the ignition module. My diagram shows that wire as W/LB H. Is it possible to cut the resistor wire where it is spliced to the to coil start wire near the ignition module and then splice the W/LB H non-resistor wire coming from the run position to the start wire and then connect the two to the Crane ignition? There is also a full current wire that runs from the ignition switch directly to the Duraspark II module in the start position and maybe another possibility would be to splice that wire to the W/LB H wire running to the ignition module and connect the two spliced wires to the Crane system to provide full voltage at start and run.
I really did try to explain the problem in as few words as possible...
According to my 1980 wiring diagram, there are TWO wires leading from the run position at the ignition switch going to the ignition, one is the 1.1 ohm resistor wire to the coil and the other is a non-resistor wire and goes directly to the ignition module. My diagram shows that wire as W/LB H. Is it possible to cut the resistor wire where it is spliced to the to coil start wire near the ignition module and then splice the W/LB H non-resistor wire coming from the run position to the start wire and then connect the two to the Crane ignition? There is also a full current wire that runs from the ignition switch directly to the Duraspark II module in the start position and maybe another possibility would be to splice that wire to the W/LB H wire running to the ignition module and connect the two spliced wires to the Crane system to provide full voltage at start and run.
I really did try to explain the problem in as few words as possible...
Last edited by pknute; 01-27-2006 at 07:00 PM.
#3
Run a wire from the "RUN" W/LB wire at the ignition module to the coil + terminal. No need to disconnect the resistor wire. If you use the connectors from a burnt up Duraspark module you can connect your replacement system directly to the factory wiring without cutting it. This will make it much easier to convert back to the stock setup if needed and a very neat installation.
#4
In the Crane cams schematic, the run/start wire - thats what I need - is split with one wire going to the electronic distributor and the other directly to the HI-6 ignition module. No run and/or start wire goes directly to the coil + terminal. The two wires to the LX coil come directly from the HI-6 module.
Last edited by pknute; 01-27-2006 at 08:06 PM.
#6
Originally Posted by danlee
The Run/Start wire should be the wire going to the module RUN position. This wire should be hot in Run and Start.
The HI-6 ignition module has two incoming + wires, one is heavy gauge running directly to battery and the other connects to a run/start full current wire. Question is, what is my source or sources for the run/start non-resistor wire to connect to the Crane module? The stock run wire to the Duraspark II is a 1.1 ohm resistor wire and I can't connect to that wire - run wire MUST be non-resistor according to Crane cams.
Last edited by pknute; 01-27-2006 at 08:41 PM.
#7
I have a Holley Annihilator which is wired the same. The power for the unit is directly from the battery. That is the heavy gauge wire. The Run/Start comes from the ignition switch and only activates the unit. It should be hot when the ignition switch is in the Run position, and also in the Start position, otherwise no spark.
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#9
Originally Posted by danlee
I have a Holley Annihilator which is wired the same. The power for the unit is directly from the battery. That is the heavy gauge wire. The Run/Start comes from the ignition switch and only activates the unit. It should be hot when the ignition switch is in the Run position, and also in the Start position, otherwise no spark.
#10
Originally Posted by danlee
I thought the resistor wire went to the coil, and a non-resistor wire went to the Duraspark module.
In 1980 the resistor run wire and the non-resistor start wire are spliced together near the Duraspark II module and the continuing wire goes to the coil +. But I can't use that wire because it will have 1.1 ohm resistance in the run position.
However, there are two other wires, both non-resistor, that run from the ignition switch directly to the Duraspark II module, one in the start position and the other in the run position. These are the two wires I'm wondering if I can splice together as the feed to the Crane module.
Last edited by pknute; 01-27-2006 at 08:59 PM.
#11
Originally Posted by pknute
According to my 1980 wiring diagram, there are TWO wires leading from the run position at the ignition switch going to the ignition, one is the 1.1 ohm resistor wire to the coil and the other is a non-resistor wire and goes directly to the ignition module.
You want the non-resistor wire that goes to the ignition module.
#12
There are two other wires, both non-resistor, that run from the ignition switch directly to the Duraspark II module, one in the start position and the other in the run position. These are the two wires I'm wondering if I can splice together as the feed to the Crane module. Will that work?
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