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Haveing trouble like ironmc, But not sure its belt

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Old 01-26-2006, 07:04 PM
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Haveing trouble like ironmc, But not sure its belt

Yeah so i read ironmc's problem and im somewhat having the same problem.

'92 Ranger 3.0L V6 Fuel Injected, second owner w/ 315,000km

It'll start (after 15min+ of cranking), then die.
It won't start.
It'll start, i'll gun it, it'll die.
It's died 2-3 times will driving, then bomb started again.

Ive just changed the fuel filter, black gas came out


I have spark because if I get the truck running and let it "warm up" abit, it'll run fine and strong with no problems.

I dont think its the fuel pump, because i can hear it prime, plus fuel pumps arent iffy when they want to work right? they either die or run?

I dont have a code checker, nor do i think a fuse is blown. Im stumped, but do you all really agree it might also be a timing belt??
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:18 PM
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oh and if it is the belt how come it doesnt mention it in the manual as a trobuleshoot??
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:18 PM
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I believe the 3.0 has a timing chain rather than belt, so that is unlikely to be your problem. Is the check engine light on? Does the black smoke happen often? Are there any strange noises or smells? Sounds like an ignition or fuel problem.
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:25 PM
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um no black smoke, the eninge light will come on if it does a highway die and will come on then off when i crank the engine(normal?) i havent noticed any strange noises other then a higher pitched whine, that was after an hours worth of effort trying to get it running. like i said the filter was just changed and the pump makes its priming whine.

Maybe injecter?? the actual lines?

I'll check spark plugs but im not sure what to look for
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by +massacre+
It'll start (after 15min+ of cranking), then die.
It won't start.
It'll start, i'll gun it, it'll die.
It's died 2-3 times will driving, then bomb started again.
Does it run while your foot is on the gas, then die if you take your foot off? Or does it die when you gun it?

I'd say a full tune up is in order, as well as getting codes pulled.

EDIT: I just saw that you don't have a code reader. Some auto parts stores (Autozone for one) will read codes for free. Call the ones in your area, if you can drive the truck there.
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:47 PM
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um it starts in a combination of pumping, not pumping, abit, alot. but usualy dies when running and i gun it to 3g (standard tranny). Also in second and often first gear, ill accelerate to 3-4500rpm and then engine just puts right out.

And im looking at the current post and it looks like this is a common problem as a 2.3L and a '94 are having the same starting troubles.
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 07:56 PM
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The things that come to mind are spark and fuel. Check for spark, check the fuel pressure.

The "black gas" in the fuel filter worries me. What is the history on this vehicle?
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 08:03 PM
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well the black gas was in the filter, the filter was soo clogged i guess. unless i have crap in my tank?!

Im second owner, was owned by a lady who just drove from Salmon Arm to Edmonton, that explains the high-mileage. But before selling it she replaced alot of stuff, half the sericable parts were new including the plugs i believe. how do i check fuel pressure??
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by +massacre+
unless i have crap in my tank?!
That black crap had to come from somewhere.

This (from the Tech. sticky) should help you check the fuel pressure.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...ureTesting.doc
 
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:49 PM
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i think it was just skum build up.

but no one else has any ideas?
 
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Old 01-27-2006, 07:45 AM
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Kinda sounds like a fuel starvation problem to me too, as it'll run at times.

The black gas thing has me thinking maybe the sock (pre filter screen) for the fuel pump in the tank is clogged up & the pump just cant suck enough fuel through it to meet the engines demand, so the air/fuel ratio goes dead lean.

So as john112deer has suggested, a fuel pressure check is in order IMHO.

Also a computer trouble code scan might be helpful too. You can do this without a scan tool, or code reader, although they are much easier & faster.
Look in the "Technical" thread Ken has located atop this forums main page, for links to threads on how to pull the codes.

Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 01-27-2006, 05:19 PM
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actualy is the friggen distributor cap, we riped that apart and everything was fried and burnt, the rotor was also massivly worn and thus the gap was off. Ill replace that tonight and see how it goes
 
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Old 01-27-2006, 05:47 PM
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Most auto parts stores around here won't check OBD-I vehicles. So you have two options. Spend 30 bucks on a tester at wally world, or check the codes yourself.

If you go to www.fordfuelinjection.com, it will tell you how to pull the codes yourself. I will summarize it up for you right now because that website only explains it for the F series, not the ranger. So here we go......

First off get a pad of paper and a pen. Then get a piece of sheated wire long enough to go from the diagnostic plug (mounted on the inside of the fender on the passenger side), theres a big connector that goes into it, and then a small connector with a single wire, all the way to your battery. Stab your stripped wire into the end of the plug, strip the other end, and hook it to the ground on your battery.

Now get in the truck and get comfortable and get ready to count the number or times your check engine light flashes. First off you'll want to do a Key on engine off test (KOEO). Turn the key on. You will hear multiple relays engaging and the fuel pump priming more than once. You will also notice your check engine light flicker a few times, and then you will see multiple quick flashes, and then it will flash once steadily..... followed by another flash (start flash). This is when you get ready to count. There is about a 4 second pause between the start flash, and the actual code number flash.

Count how many times it flashes. The light will come on and shut off depending on the code number. For instance, code number 34 will be as follows:

Blink... Blink... Blink.......... Blink... Blink... Blink... Blink.

Then the next code will become present by the number of flashes. It will go through this cycle twice. Say for instance you get code 34, 56 and 88. You will see those codes come up twice. Let us know what you find out there....


Now will be the Key on engine running (KOER) test. Same setup as above, only this time when you get in the truck, fire it up. If it runs alright, then after the light flickers a few times like it did before, and once the "start test" flash flashes, then mash the throttle to the floor for a quick second, turn the wheel a half turn, and hit the brake pedal all within about 3-4 seconds. Once you do that, it will return to a high idle for about 30 seconds. Once the test is done, it will idle back down, and start flashin codes like it did before.

I tried explaining this as quickly as possible, but if you are unsure about some things, go to www.fordfuelinjection.com and read up on "how to pull the codes yourself." Good luck my friend!
 
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Old 01-27-2006, 05:48 PM
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ok we put on the new cap amd it fired up, will a little struggle, but i wanted to test the "gun it theory". sure enough it got to 4000rpm and died, now it wont start again. Also it seems every time it does start it has been about a 24 hour wait period. Something setteling? cooling down?
 
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Old 01-27-2006, 05:56 PM
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ok for KOEO the light does not flash, DOES NOT flash. it comes on then turns off after a short period of time. IF i can get the truck running in doesnt flash, unless the engine stalls out while the truck is driving, otherwise if I get it running and the engine cuts out, then its just like a stall, the light is soild and doesnt blink.
 


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