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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2008, 12:19 AM
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Stewart_H Stewart_H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hallajrw View Post
What do you do if the engine light comes on after replacing the plugs?
Use a code scanner to see what DTC is set. Until you know what Diagnostic Trouble Code has been set, you can't tackle the problem.

Usually Autozone or Kragens autoparts stores have these tools which they will let you use for free.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2008, 05:33 PM
ricstravel ricstravel is offline
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Question More info on Escape hybrid spark plug change

I have a '05 Escape Hybrid with 90k. I bought the plugs, however when I tried to pull off one of the boots it would not budge. This did not seem normal compared to other cars I've worked on. I was about to turn this over to the dealer to do (which would be a first for me to have a dealer change plugs!), when in my last ditch effort to get information I came across this forum.

Bananaboat was evidently able to do it. My question is: how do I pull the boots off in more detail? I don't want to separate the COP from the rubber boot. THX!
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:05 PM
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Welcome to the forumn ricstravel

The instructions in the post at the top of this thread are for a V6 but the coil and plug removal is pretty much the same. As you know, each spark plug has it's own coil on plug (COP) with a small bolt attaching it to the valve cover. Unplug the electrical connector from the COP and remove the bolt. Sometimes the boots stick to the head and are hard to remove. Usually some twisting will break them free. If the coil pulls out of the boot it's usually no big deal. You can pull the boot out of the hole with pliers and simply slide it back onto the coil.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2008, 07:55 PM
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Racerguy - so if the COP comes out of the boot and exposes the spring as mentioned in a previous post, I can just stick it back in at reassembly? Cool! I'll try that tomorrow. Any other suggestions to release the boot from the head other than the 'twist and shout' approach with pliers? THX!
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Old 07-06-2008, 10:17 PM
tonyford tonyford is offline
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My mechanic told me the plugs in an Escape should last well beyond 100,000. He has changed plugs on Escapes with 100 to 125K on them and they look no different than the new plugs he installed. I believe the plugs in an Escape are self-cleaning, so no carbon or crut can build up on them. Another thumbs up for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"...
Honestly though, if you are having mis-fires and poor fuel economy with lots of miles on the vehicle it may be time for a plug change..
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2008, 03:44 PM
FatalErrorz FatalErrorz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerguy View Post
How to replace your V-6 Escape's spark plugs.


Replacing the spark plugs on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be quite time consuming.
If you're used to replacing spark plugs on a simpler engine you might be surprised to learn that you have to remove the upper intake manifold. It's not really as bad as it sounds.
This is the order I do it in and not necessarily how you'll want to do it.
Click on the blue words for pictures.

You will need 6 spark plugs(I recommend Motorcraft) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.


Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs. The Escape I worked on in these pictures had been worked on by another shop and apparently they forgot to reinstall the cover so I don't have a picture of it.

Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.

Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body.
Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.

Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.

Disconnect the TP (Throttle Position) sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control) connectors. Unclip the vent hose from the bracket under the throttle body.

Remove the vacuum hose and vapor hose from the Vapor Management Valve. The vapor hose has 2 tabs that you carefully pry apart to remove it.

Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and the 2 hoses from the EGR solenoid as well as the connector on the solenoid. The connector has a tab you squeeze to release it.

Remove the EGR tube from the valve. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench.

Remove the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake manifold.

Unclip the electrical connectors from the manifold. You don't have to disconnect the connectors.

Remove the nut that holds the wiring bracket to the EGR solenoid and position the wiring out of the way.

Tie the wiring and hoses out of the way.

Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower manifolds.

Stuff clean rags in the intake ports so nothing accidentally falls into them.

Unplug the connectors off the COPs (Coil On Plug). Each cylinder has it's own coil.

Remove the bolts and COPs.

It's a good idea to clean the rubber boot part of each COP. I like to clean them with WD40.

Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air and remove the spark plugs.

Gap the new spark plugs with a gapping tool to .052-.056".

Install the new spark plugs. Some people like to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. Others put them in dry.

A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Crossthreading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft.lbs.

Replace the intake manifold gaskets. They pop out with a small screwdriver or pick. Push the new ones into place.

Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs....not ft.lbs.

Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.
Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc.
Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks.
Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about all the money you just saved
Ummm...my wife's 2006 Escape took me about 2 hours to change her plugs. My F150 took all day... Escape's are EASY...And gap the plugs on the small gap .52...as they wear, the gap expands all on its own.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2008, 08:55 AM
MMSCHWE MMSCHWE is offline
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Thanks!

Precious Tune quoted $650 to replace 1 coilpack, plugs & intake gaskets.

Thanks to your how-to, I was able to do it for $130. You saved me $500!
I turned on the baseball pre-game show on the garage radio when I started, and I was done by the bottom of the ninth.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2009, 09:15 PM
sarcsurfer sarcsurfer is offline
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I just did this tune-up today. I am not a mechanic, but mechanically inclined... LOL! It took my son and I about two hours. Local Ford dealers wanted $325 - $400. I got it done for under a hundred. Would have been $70 less, but I had to replace one of the coils. The epoxy was cracked and letting moisture in it. Replaced PCV valve as well. Wish I would have found these pictures first.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2009, 08:21 PM
shtdapuck shtdapuck is offline
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Changing plugs in a Ford Escape.

After reading you post regarding changing pugs in Escape it made me wonder. I had a garage change the plugs in my 2004 Escape and a week or so later the engined revved up on it's own to 4500 RPM. I brought it into the dealer and they had to replace the throttle body valve assembly, the intake manifold gaskets as well as the PCV valve etc. Could this be a coincidence? Or should I be concerned about the garage who changed my plugs?

Thanks....
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2010, 12:05 AM
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bump bump bump
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2010, 12:24 AM
RollingStone RollingStone is offline
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Do you really need to replace the gaskets?

Oh hi,

What shape were the gaskets in? Did they actually need replacing?

EDIT
I found the answer after much more searching and it is Yes. It seems the risk for a manifold leak is high.

Thx,
Glen
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Last edited by RollingStone; 02-26-2010 at 12:36 AM. Reason: answered my own question vis more research
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2010, 12:39 AM
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I would do the lower and upper and the pvc valve also because its right there.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:54 PM
4dkidzboo 4dkidzboo is offline
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wow now thats what u call a money saver
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2011, 02:36 PM
tonyford tonyford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4dkidzboo View Post
wow now thats what u call a money saver

Absolutely if you know what your doing!
My trusted mechanic charged me $175 to change plugs and did the pcv valve also since it was right there in front of him.

Ford Service will charge you a lot. Sometimes you will get advertising from your local Ford dealer for tune-ups, oil changes etc. Don't fall for the low price. Believe methey will "find" something else wrong and before you leave you will pay a lot more than that advertised price for the tune-up.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:33 PM
firepop5 firepop5 is offline
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I have an 06 Mariner with the 3.0 V6. There are 2 coolant lines that go to the throttle body. My service manual says to drain the cooling system as first step to removing the upper manifold. I just disconnected the lines and plugged them with old spark plugs for the time they were disconnected. Everything else seemed to be the same. Does the Escape V6 have coolant lines going to the throttle body?
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:33 PM
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