I have a '05 Escape Hybrid with 90k. I bought the plugs, however when I tried to pull off one of the boots it would not budge. This did not seem normal compared to other cars I've worked on. I was about to turn this over to the dealer to do (which would be a first for me to have a dealer change plugs!), when in my last ditch effort to get information I came across this forum.
Bananaboat was evidently able to do it. My question is: how do I pull the boots off in more detail? I don't want to separate the COP from the rubber boot. THX!
The instructions in the post at the top of this thread are for a V6 but the coil and plug removal is pretty much the same. As you know, each spark plug has it's own coil on plug (COP) with a small bolt attaching it to the valve cover. Unplug the electrical connector from the COP and remove the bolt. Sometimes the boots stick to the head and are hard to remove. Usually some twisting will break them free. If the coil pulls out of the boot it's usually no big deal. You can pull the boot out of the hole with pliers and simply slide it back onto the coil.
Racerguy - so if the COP comes out of the boot and exposes the spring as mentioned in a previous post, I can just stick it back in at reassembly? Cool! I'll try that tomorrow. Any other suggestions to release the boot from the head other than the 'twist and shout' approach with pliers? THX!
My mechanic told me the plugs in an Escape should last well beyond 100,000. He has changed plugs on Escapes with 100 to 125K on them and they look no different than the new plugs he installed. I believe the plugs in an Escape are self-cleaning, so no carbon or crut can build up on them. Another thumbs up for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"...
Honestly though, if you are having mis-fires and poor fuel economy with lots of miles on the vehicle it may be time for a plug change..
Replacing the spark plugs on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be quite time consuming.
If you're used to replacing spark plugs on a simpler engine you might be surprised to learn that you have to remove the upper intake manifold. It's not really as bad as it sounds.
This is the order I do it in and not necessarily how you'll want to do it.
Click on the blue words for pictures.
You will need 6 spark plugs(I recommend Motorcraft) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.
Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs. The Escape I worked on in these pictures had been worked on by another shop and apparently they forgot to reinstall the cover so I don't have a picture of it.
Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.
Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body.
Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.
Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.
Install the new spark plugs. Some people like to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. Others put them in dry.
A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Crossthreading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft.lbs.
Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs....not ft.lbs.
Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.
Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc.
Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks.
Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about all the money you just saved
Ummm...my wife's 2006 Escape took me about 2 hours to change her plugs. My F150 took all day... Escape's are EASY...And gap the plugs on the small gap .52...as they wear, the gap expands all on its own.
I just did this tune-up today. I am not a mechanic, but mechanically inclined... LOL! It took my son and I about two hours. Local Ford dealers wanted $325 - $400. I got it done for under a hundred. Would have been $70 less, but I had to replace one of the coils. The epoxy was cracked and letting moisture in it. Replaced PCV valve as well. Wish I would have found these pictures first.
After reading you post regarding changing pugs in Escape it made me wonder. I had a garage change the plugs in my 2004 Escape and a week or so later the engined revved up on it's own to 4500 RPM. I brought it into the dealer and they had to replace the throttle body valve assembly, the intake manifold gaskets as well as the PCV valve etc. Could this be a coincidence? Or should I be concerned about the garage who changed my plugs?
Absolutely if you know what your doing!
My trusted mechanic charged me $175 to change plugs and did the pcv valve also since it was right there in front of him.
Ford Service will charge you a lot. Sometimes you will get advertising from your local Ford dealer for tune-ups, oil changes etc. Don't fall for the low price. Believe methey will "find" something else wrong and before you leave you will pay a lot more than that advertised price for the tune-up.
I have an 06 Mariner with the 3.0 V6. There are 2 coolant lines that go to the throttle body. My service manual says to drain the cooling system as first step to removing the upper manifold. I just disconnected the lines and plugged them with old spark plugs for the time they were disconnected. Everything else seemed to be the same. Does the Escape V6 have coolant lines going to the throttle body?