Fellas
HELP. My wife has to use my Aero, her Explorer I broke a caliper slide and bolt and none in stock any where. So she has to drive my old girl, for the next week. I run or wlk to work, so I don't drive it too often.
But to get to it. My poor old aero has started to stumble shake like a b1tch when cold some times, just as I move off. And now started to stumble at highway speed, (only) when I accelerate.
I have check for a vacum leak, have not ran for codes yet.
Parts that I have replaced 3 yrs ago.
Plugs, Boush doubles.
MAF.
It has idle a lil rough for the pass 7 o so months. Codes that came up were 111,116, 157, 536, 538 about a month ago. most said don't worry.
Any thoughts.
I will run for codes tommorrow. If she gets to work and back.

 

Dude, you broke Aerostar rule #1, only motorcraft/autolite plugs and wires. Bosch is the worst on Ford's DIS systems. Go ahead an pull a plug or two to check the condition of it.


Then you went ahead and broke rule #2, your MAF is now coated with oil from the K&N Filter (which code 157 verifies.) Clean the filament with some Electrical Contact cleaner.

111 - System checks OK

157 - Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded

536 - Brake On Off open or shorted to ground

538 - System did not receive "goose" test

You did not mention when was the last time the O@ was replaced, but it is probably overdue.

Go ahead and pull the codes tomorrow and we will see what else is wrong.

 

Thanks
I know, i know about the boush plugs, I'm picking up a set of Autolites.I don't have the KN filter anymore. As for the o2. Its never been replaced. I'll reclen the map though and try that.

 

I had that problem with my. I changed the spark plugs and the problem got worse. I found that one of the spark plug wires was bad at the coil. Then I found that I had cracked one of the new spark plugs when I put it in. What happens is until ecceleration conditions the resistence in the cylinder goes up. So the spark (travelling the path of least resistence) jumps to the engine block or whatever is close through the crack or bad spot.

Good luck.

 

Has anyone tryed NGK plugs and wires? I was at CTC, and they still list the Bosch ones. A friend that works there, also agreed, about the plugs. It is because of the wrong heat range. It screws up the coils. He said maybe AC Delcos would work.
As for Autolites, at 12$ a pop, I would like to find a same good plug.

 

NGK's are good plugs...have to get the right heat range....and double platinum is mandatory if it is an electronic distributorless ignition with the multicoil pack...better off with 1 or 2 steps too cold rather than too hot heat range...new platinum or iridium fine wire tip plugs are not needed and waste of money on Aero, these are for new 4 valve per cyl engines

never have used NGK wires...must work...on many of the imports along with Nipondenso...some of these engines turn to 8k plus and have super hot spark...even on the Super bikes that turn up to 12k plus

$12 per plug even in C$'s is too rich for my blood...how about Motorcraft at a Ford dealer?

 

I will re-iterate, only use Motorcraft/autolite plugs and wires on Ford's DIS system, anything else you are going to get crappy fuel millage, and the plugs will only last a year or so before fouling and needing to be replaced. This is not a theory, it is a fact on all Fords with DIS. I would just go to the Ford dealership, they should run about $7 a pop or have your friend that works there buy the autolites at his discount which would be around $6 ea.

NGK work great on foriegn cars because those are OEM plugs.
Champion works great on Chrysler because those are OEM plugs.
AC Delco works great on GMs because, again OEM.
Bosch, great on Blown, Juiced big blocks with carbs.

Every mechanic I know sticks to this rule so he does not have to re-do the plugs six months down the road because they are toast.

 

Ye I know, At CTC NGKs are 7$, dealer 12$. I'm going to buy a new MAF, O2, Wires/Plugs. Thanks fellas.