What is being wrspped with foil? is it the resistor itself? and this insulates it fromt he heat of the motor?
Am I correct?
The tech files give detail pics. The part is a resistor and the foil allows the current to flow around the resistor. I repair it by soldering a 18 gauge wire around the end.
pay attention to the orientation of the motor to the housing and mark the end of the motor to go back on the way it came off. If you get it off you could have the motor lock when others un lock. Jim
I did this repair a couple of weeks ago and thought I ought to come back here and pay proper homage for all the posts. I spent about 1 1/2 - 2 hours on the first actuator and then finished the other three locks in about 90 mins. I did not have to take the door handle off because I found that with a little more twist, you can safely pull the actuator around the window guide to finally get to the little hinge clip. Once that was open, the rest was a piece of cake.
I didn't do the liftgate actuator at the same time because I couldn't figure out how to remove the plastic part covering the access holes. It just felt like I was going to break something. So I checked back here and got the advice to give it a little more gusto and sure enough, I removed the plastic piece and quickly serviced the actuator. To anyone who still needs to fix the liftgage actuator, remember that you can actually take it out without taking apart the whole locking mechanism. It's a little tight in there but if you use a good light and a long, regular screwdriver, you can depress the holding clip just enough to pull back the actuator. I did the liftgate actuator in about 10 mins start to finish. Really. By this time I was so fast at opening the little motor and wrapping the resistor, I could do it in just a couple of mins.
One final bit of advice. I'll bet everyone had to come up with their own way to bend back the little tabs that hold the electric motor together. My solution was to file a tiny, tiny little groove into the end of an ice-pick-like tool. Then I could simply pry it underneat the tab and quickly bend it straight up. I have read that some others nearly destroyed their motors just trying to get them open.
Just adding my experience and thanks to everyone who posted this great info.
I too am hittint he locks just to see them work! THANKS!
But, I did not fully remove the assembly from the door, i left the cable and wires connected (except the one for the motor). I now have a problem of no dome light coming on when I open the door. Since so many people have done this fix, I thought I'de check to see if anyone experienced this before I take it all apart again. Damn sortcuts, I thought I was being smart.
Probably have the door switch disconnected. Must have pulled it loose and not fully reconnected. This switch operates the dome light. Also check the bulb to see if it failed. Fuse? Jim
Is the door switch on the latch/motor assembly? I thought I may have pulled something apart by mistake. I'm going to check the fuse, but the red covered door lights don't work either so I doubt it would be all the bulbs at the same time.
A big thank you to all who contributed to this fix. Fixed all 4 doors...although i broke my first actuator motor , but got another from a FTE sponsor and i'm up and running. Seems to have gotten faster at the change with each door...man thanks again this fix is a fix. No more hang ups on the door locks.
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Wicked!
, but got another from a FTE sponsor and i'm up and running. Seems to have gotten faster at the change with each door...man thanks again this fix is a fix. No more hang ups on the door locks. 
