hey I have a step by step write up if anyone needs it! It's in word format! with pictures. It's only for the liftgate. I will work on the door when I get a chance!!! my email is srq4@hotmail.com if you can't get a response post here again and I will give my alt email.
I'm in the club, just finished both doors on my F250 & it's working as promised. Whoever came up with the solution to this problem deserves an award, I'm impressed. I had 2 cold beers after it was back together with all due respect....
how did u fix the locks?? everyone is saying to use wd40 but this didn't work for me. I don't know if i was spraying it in the right place to begin with
I've been following this thread for some time now and have been trying to find the time to get this done on my driver side door which went out last year some time. First the action got real lethargic, then it just quit all together. Same symptoms as you guys are having. Just as I was about to break down and do the work, the damn thing started working again, just like new, didn't touch a thing. The action is fast and as I said, works like the day I bought it. Now we've been have sub zero weather out here for several week and I'm wondering if the frigid tems have "healed" the thermistor in the circuit or at least masked the problem for now as it doesn't have a chance to get hot???? Just guessing here but am interested if anyone else is having this "problem".
i just did this also and it works. the cold weather is making the locks work better. i did some tests on the thermistor and it has about 3 ohms at room temperature. when heated with a heatgun it got up to almost 3 mega ohms. i imagine when your interior is about 95 degrees in mid summer they don't work all that well. many thanks to the person who originally discovered this.
i just did this also and it works. the cold weather is making the locks work better. i did some tests on the thermistor and it has about 3 ohms at room temperature. when heated with a heatgun it got up to almost 3 mega ohms. i imagine when your interior is about 95 degrees in mid summer they don't work all that well. many thanks to the person who originally discovered this.
I found the same thing,, 3 ohms at room temps. This is why I solder an 18 gauge wire around the end of the metal plates to provide the new copper conductor. I have also cut a piece of copper to make an exact fit, won't say where the copper comes from, but it does cost me $.01 Jim
Someone please describe removing the lock assembly. I have the panel removed, I removed the 3 screws holding the lock assembly but how do you remove the assembly?
What is the best way to disconnect the connecting rod of the lock button and the interior lock handle?
I took screws on the interior handle out so it could be removed. Then separated the handle from the lock. Check the photos in the tech section they do help.
The green connector from the outside handle is removed with a long screwdriver.
The interior handle with pushrod has a swing away clip at the lock. If I remember correctly it has been a while, I removed the connector to remove the push rod. Jim
That "thing" is a little hard to spot, it looks like a small rectangular watch battery. Prying the motor apart is a little tricky too, but is does come apart. Upon re-assembly be sure that the small brushes are around the comm on the motor, and don't force it!
I used less than 1 square inch of foil to wrap both sides on my truck. WOW what a difference!
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Jim
Jim
