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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2006, 02:01 PM
bucknbc bucknbc is offline
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Found this site this morning.Fixed my locks.THANK YOU!!!
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:46 AM
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...Welcome bucknbc, to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

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Old 08-21-2006, 02:32 PM
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Wish I had seen this before I bought 3 new actuators at $40+ each. I still have the rear hatch to do,, got to run actuator on the bench waiting. Jim
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Old 08-21-2006, 04:20 PM
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Ok,, I'm back. I disassembled the actuator by drilling out the plastic rivets. Took out the motor w/o drilling out the metal rivets. Disassembled the motor found the 3 ohm resistor. (this is a bit much on 12 v. circuit). I used copper and cut a new part the same dimensions as the resistor removed. Then I coated it with a thin film of dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Won't say where I got the copper from :-) The motor worked like a champ. Installed the motor with my X showing top of the motor and plastic end bell in the correct position (so it would turn in the correct direction). However then I drilled out the rivets with a 1/16" drill and used small wood type screws and a washer in each rivet. this gave a very solid mechanical assembly. Looks great and works very solid. Now to the rear lift gate that also has a bad actuator. Note the lift gate uses the right side door actuator. Thanks again for the info. Jim
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Old 08-21-2006, 08:30 PM
redstroker redstroker is offline
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This was an AWESOME fix! I am new to this site, was'nt even a member, until I read this fix and tried it. My door locks have'nt worked for about a year. They work great now. To whoever posted this fix, THANK YOU!
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2006, 08:55 PM
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how do you save these threads for future use? Thanks
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettdvr
I used copper and cut a new part the same dimensions as the resistor removed. Then I coated it with a thin film of dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Won't say where I got the copper from :-) Jim
I might add that my piece of copper did cost me 1 Red Cent $.01 :-)
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:30 PM
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My passenger door on my 2000 F-250 does the I might unlock or I might not unlock occasionally or I might lock or I might not lock, very annoying , wish I had some guy to fix it for me, I read the "how to " a few times really unsure if I can do it. Oh well...

Did some one say $42.00 from Ford???
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:03 PM
redstroker redstroker is offline
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I did'nt even drill out the rivets, I just spread it open far enough to get the motor out and the ziptied that end of the actuator back together. Worked like a dream. I'm still hitting the lock/unlock button just to hear them jump up and down. They sound like they're going to jump out of the door. AWESOME!
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat
My passenger door on my 2000 F-250 does the I might unlock or I might not unlock occasionally or I might lock or I might not lock, very annoying , wish I had some guy to fix it for me, I read the "how to " a few times really unsure if I can do it. Oh well...

Did some one say $42.00 from Ford???
You can do it. I did mine on a family camping trip with limited tools. Don't be afraid to try it. If you run into problems or have a question, just log on and ask. Someone will be here to help shortly. If you get into it deep enough to replace with the $42.00 part you have the hard part done.
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat
My passenger door on my 2000 F-250 does the I might unlock or I might not unlock occasionally or I might lock or I might not lock, very annoying , wish I had some guy to fix it for me, I read the "how to " a few times really unsure if I can do it. Oh well...

Did some one say $42.00 from Ford???
You can always private email someone and either get photos (which I have) and / or the phone number then just call and ask. Jim
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2006, 05:22 PM
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just did mine .. the pass front door was constantly failing. Only did that one for now but it works GREAT !!!
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2006, 06:27 PM
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Update. I now can repair on in about 15 minutes. I drill the rivets flush with the case, but not the metal ones. I leave them alone. Open the case with a screwdriver blade just enough to remove the motor. Pry open the taps just enough to remove the back case. I do scribe a mark for top on the case and back case so I can install it and get correct operation. I remove the 3/8x1/4 plate resistor which varied on those that don't work from 3 to 5 ohms. Then I solder a 18 gauge coppere wire to the end of the plate resistor, with all the insualtion removed. Carefully bend the wire around the end of the resistor and solder to the otherside. Then install in motor using care not to damage the brushes. Works like a champ. I have also used copper cut to fit which :-) cost me $.01 :-) can't say where the copper came from though. My case is held closed with tiny screws. I drill a 1/16" hole into the plastic rivits and then install the round head screw for a professional looking repair. Thanks all for the great info. Jim
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Old 09-05-2006, 05:01 PM
schoeneberger schoeneberger is offline
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Talking Great Fix

I've been a member of this site for less than 24 hours and this fix for my power lock actuators was exactly what I was looking for. The first two doors, passenger rear and then the front, took 3 hours. The driver side took an hour for both. I reassembled the actuators with a zip-tie. It seems secure enough and don't expect to experience any problems. Thanks to all for the inputs.
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Old 09-05-2006, 06:02 PM
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Yup, this fix is pretty trick!!! To date, my door locks are working like new since I did this to all four!!!
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