Make sure you remember to put the back of the motor on the right way. That is why some people have locks that are opposite of the switch (locks on unlock, unlocks on lock). Yes, that is why the first door took so long as I had to redo it all over again.
I did not remove the window rail, which saved some time but was a pain to work around.
Zip ties used to hold it back together after popping the plastic posts. 7" seems to be a good fit.
NOW WHO IS COMING TO CLAIM THEIR FOR HELPING ME SOLVE THIS FRUSTRATING AND ANNOYING ISSUE? I have $160 to spend on beer that was earlier allocated for actuators.
NOW WHO IS COMING TO CLAIM THEIR FOR HELPING ME SOLVE THIS FRUSTRATING AND ANNOYING ISSUE? I have $160 to spend on beer that was earlier allocated for actuators.
$160? Heck, I'll be right there
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'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
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'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
Just remember the parts# on the bell goes down. I used rebar tie wire on my case halves.
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
Zip ties used to hold it back together after popping the plastic posts. 7" seems to be a good fit.
NOW WHO IS COMING TO CLAIM THEIR FOR HELPING ME SOLVE THIS FRUSTRATING AND ANNOYING ISSUE? I have $160 to spend on beer that was earlier allocated for actuators.
Ok,, I came up with the $.01 fix, the use of small socked head screws to keep the halves together and marking the motor to prevent reversing.
I assume the party IN Penn. will have boiled crawfish, crawfish bisque, and crawfish pie, fried catfish and hushpuppies, with some Main lobster thrown it for fun.
I assume the party IN Penn. will have boiled crawfish, crawfish bisque, and crawfish pie, fried catfish and hushpuppies, with some Main lobster thrown it for fun.
Screw the lobster and load up with some crawfish ettoufee. I'll fire up the pit and toss in brisket, pulled pork, beef and pork ribs, and some chicken for the vegans.
I realize you are a little further north so some training.
BEERANDCRAWFISH is one word.!
OK so I know this off topic,, but sure fun.
pssst - I'm a Gulf Coast Texan - just happen to get my mail in PA for the past 11 years. Shrimp nets, seine nets, Atchafalya basin, andouille, and boudin are well known items 'round here....
Back on topic, it seems that one of my doors is already weak again. I'll have to tear it down again while we replace the ball joints later tonight.
Dealership wanted $234 to get all four doors' actuators!
Dealership wanted $234 to get all four doors' actuators!
That 's about the right price delivered to your door. I repaired mine about 3 years ago with the $.01 method and they are still going. Lucky perhaps. I also found if a short piece of 18ga copper wire were soldered around the end of the thermistor worked as good as the $.01 fix and cheaper.
I used a piece of tin foil and crammed them in all 5 of mine (working real well still 1 year) Saved 5 cents
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
I've read through most of this and tried it last weekend on my 2000 F250 drivers door. Didn't seem to fix the problem so will need to take it back apart and check it out again. In the mean time I've been doing some research hunting for replacement motors themselves. I do know the originals are 12v and high RPM motors. I can't confirm this is the correct motor, but sure seems like the exact same motor. These are on ebay, listed by a surplus store in Toronto. They give a web address for the motors spec sheet on the ebay listing and although I don't have one of the original actuator motors available to measure, looks like a match. Price is about $2.75 USD for a pair of them. Maybe someone can check the measurements of one of the actuator motors when they have one apart against the spec sheet demenisions. I ordered 4 and will take a door apart and take a look when I get them and let you know if they work. For about $11 shipped for 4, it seems like it would be worth a try. Would sure be great if this is new replacement motors!! If someone has already gone down this road, sorry for rambling on. 2 x 12VDC Mabuchi Motor FC-280PT-20150 High RPM - eBay (item 170378290468 end time Oct-01-09 08:19:09 PDT)
I've read through most of this and tried it last weekend on my 2000 F250 drivers door. Didn't seem to fix the problem so will need to take it back apart and check it out again. In the mean time I've been doing some research hunting for replacement motors themselves. I do know the originals are 12v and high RPM motors. I can't confirm this is the correct motor, but sure seems like the exact same motor. These are on ebay, listed by a surplus store in Toronto. They give a web address for the motors spec sheet on the ebay listing and although I don't have one of the original actuator motors available to measure, looks like a match. Price is about $2.75 USD for a pair of them. Maybe someone can check the measurements of one of the actuator motors when they have one apart against the spec sheet demenisions. I ordered 4 and will take a door apart and take a look when I get them and let you know if they work. For about $11 shipped for 4, it seems like it would be worth a try. Would sure be great if this is new replacement motors!! If someone has already gone down this road, sorry for rambling on. 2 x 12VDC Mabuchi Motor FC-280PT-20150 High RPM - eBay (item 170378290468 end time Oct-01-09 08:19:09 PDT)
Those look like they will be useful as replacement brushes, anyway. The shaft appears to come out of this motor at the SAME end as the brushes, which is not per the original as I recall.
You will likely still have to bypass the thermistor (if these motors have them) or you will be back into them again in a few years.
So, I don't believe they are direct replacements, but they are a VERY good find!
I may order some to keep as very-difficult-to-find spare parts.
Pop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
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and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
My zip-tie job came loose on the one weak actuator. I put everything back in place and glued it closed and put the zip ties back on. All is well.
Excellent fix!
I used rebar tie wire on mine.
__________________
Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
I've read through most of this and tried it last weekend on my 2000 F250 drivers door. Didn't seem to fix the problem so will need to take it back apart and check it out again. In the mean time I've been doing some research hunting for replacement motors themselves. I do know the originals are 12v and high RPM motors. I can't confirm this is the correct motor, but sure seems like the exact same motor. These are on ebay, listed by a surplus store in Toronto. They give a web address for the motors spec sheet on the ebay listing and although I don't have one of the original actuator motors available to measure, looks like a match. Price is about $2.75 USD for a pair of them. Maybe someone can check the measurements of one of the actuator motors when they have one apart against the spec sheet demenisions. I ordered 4 and will take a door apart and take a look when I get them and let you know if they work. For about $11 shipped for 4, it seems like it would be worth a try. Would sure be great if this is new replacement motors!! If someone has already gone down this road, sorry for rambling on. 2 x 12VDC Mabuchi Motor FC-280PT-20150 High RPM - eBay (item 170378290468 end time Oct-01-09 08:19:09 PDT)
I would just go to the wrecking yard. The motors rarely go out anyway.
__________________
Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
- "The shaft appears to come out of this motor at the SAME end as the brushes, which is not per the original as I recall".
Hmm looked and you're right. On the spec sheet looks like shaft comes out opposite of plastic end. Oh well, maybe parts anyway.
- "I would just go to the wrecking yard. The motors rarely go out anyway"
That would be great if they would open an actuator ans sell just the motor, but ones I checked with want $20.00 or more for whole acuator and you still may have same issue and used motor.
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FOR HELPING ME SOLVE THIS FRUSTRATING AND ANNOYING ISSUE? I have $160 to spend on beer that was earlier allocated for actuators.
