I finished fixing my Excursions locks today. Some of them did not function at all, and now all 5 work. I just pryed mind open enough to get the motor out and left the 2 metal rivets intact. I learned this after opening the first one and having trouble getting that end to stay together. I wraped a ziptie around the motor end and tightened it with plyers. This seemed to work great on the remaining 4 locks. I highly recommend this fix to anyone with lock problems. My locks now lock and unlock with authority!
-JeffP
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00 Limited 4x4 7.3l PSD X
Black and Beige
MBRP 409SS 4" turbo back exhaust
AEM Brute Force intake (came with X)
203 Degree Termostat and Billet Housing
Prodigy brake controller
Gauges: EGT, Boost, Trans Temp
MOdified Lock Actuators
23' Koala Hybrid Travel Trailer
Last edited by shoman89 : 07-29-2006 at 10:46 PM.
Reason: Sig missing.
Any tips on how to get the locks/actuators out? I have removed the door panels, removed the three screws holiding the door latch to the door, and got one of the rods disconnected, but can't seem to get the rod coming from the key lock disconnected....Do I have to remove the door handle and key lock or is there something else I am missing?
No, you shouldn't have to remove the handle or key lock. If I remember right, each rod connects with a differant type of retainer clip. It is a PITA to get out. I did it so I know you can. Just look at each rod and figure out how to release the clips. I managed to get the actuator out and then disconnected the cable. Sorry I can't decribe it better. It will go back easier than it comes out. Good luck.
thanks for the reply! I tried for awhile to get it out, but eventually came back in and did a more thorough search on FTE for other tips on removal. I ended up following the instructions on this thread:
which included removing the inner and outer door handles. Maybe now that I see how everything connects I won't have to do that on the next one, but it really helped me get this one out.
So I did the repair, and since I used some epoxy (along with screws) to put it back together, and since it got dark outside, I figure I'll let the epoxy dry overnight and try to reinstall it tomorrow morning once it gets light again.
Oh yea, it will work. Mine has been fixed for 3 weeks now and I still hit the remote just to hear the lock work. Hadn't worked right in several years. Had to walk around the truck and manually lock passenger door if I wanted it locked. Now if we can figure out how to make the remote lock work when key is in the switch and engine running for cold weather warmups...... oh...that's another thread......
OK, Lock works great now....EXCEPT it works opposite of all the other locks in the truck.
I read in a post above that this happened to someone else and they disconnected the battery to reset the computer, which fixed the lock. I disconnected both batteries for about 10 minutes and still have the same problem. Is there another step in reprogramming the computer?
BTW, this truck has a Hypertech computer chip programmer...would that make a difference? (I just bought this truck and don't know much about the Hypertech thing.)
Just finished doing this fix myself, I would like to thank kalsc for the detailed post and thanks to ssjrsw for the pics. Sorry I can't help you WildTurkey but I hope you post the solution so the rest of us can learn. It is so nice to have these working and with just a little tin foil, Sweet!!!
Sorry I don't know about that one. You might try cycling the locks with the key fob, the one that is opposite, manually reposition so all are the same, then disconnect the battery/batteries again. Reconnect and retry. Just a thought, might be worth a try.
Did mine on my 99 S.D. S.C. and they worked flawlessly, although I did remove the outside door handles and made it easy to get to the lock rods. This forum really has some great information and has saved me some money and headaches!! Great site.
This sounds like exactly the problem and solution that has been bugging me for a few years. I suspected maybe bad switches, grounds etc. I might still have those come to think of it since I can unlock both doors with the driver side control but nothing from the passenger side other than a winding up sound and a clunk.
Will have to try this out soon. It's either got to be this problem or a ground since I already cleaned the switches and checked the wiring etc on tha passenger door. If it is the resistor I wonder why my lock works with the driver control. This does sound like the fix tho.
I like guys who fix rather than remove and replace. Seems more "ecologically responsible" to me, plus I am also cheap.
After trying everything else, the only thing I could think of was that I had done something wrong, which of course, I had. I thought about it for a while and figured I must have put the motor back together backwards. So I removed everything again, took it all apart, rotated the little plastic motor piece with the aluminum foil 180 degress and then put it back together. Works perfectly now!
Thanks to everybody that replied to help out and thanks to the guys who came up with the fix and posted the pics in this thread.
I'm sure I'll be back with other questions about the truck later!
K, I have to say, I am a much happier dude right now. I can't remember where I found the info, been searching on here so I could reply, but gave up.
Long story short, there is a posting in here somewhere stating how one guy fixed his actuators. I didn't want to spend $100 CDN each or buy some cheap crap off Ebay that wasn't specific to my truck, so I went through the steps this guy posted and man, am I impressed!!!!!!
To whom ever that was that posted about how to fix the actuators by getting at the little motors and replacing the thermal resistor, THANK YOU!!!!!! This was the best fix with NO COST I have ever done. Best part is that now the gear box (actuator housing) is now servicable. LOVE IT!!!!!
Cheers man!
:-)
PS - I can post that information on here if anyone else is interested, I just want to make sure no one thinks this was my idea, I most certainly do not want to take credit for this.
I believe the original post was by 'Taylormade99' in Nov. '05. This is a killer fix. I did all 4 locks on my 2000 350 CC today and all locks work great now after 2 years of being inoperative. I modified the procedure slightly. First I did not completely separate the two halves of the actuators. I pried open the end away from the rivets and left the rivets intact and slipped the motor out of the two halves. That way when I reassembled, I didn't need screws. I used safety wire twisted tight around the end opposite of the rivets. Those who ride motocross know what the safety wire and pliers look like. Good Luck this is a great fix. I can post pictures if anyone would like.........I think.
can you tell me where the actuator is and how to take them out,I dont have any experience with this.Thanks john
Welcome to FTE.
Door lock/latch/actuator are all one unit. It is mounted inside of door with 3 screws. You must remove inside door panel to access the latch. Screws are accessed from the outside latching edge of door. The rest of the instruction are in this thread and it does work.
Hello from Clearwater, I just did the lock motor repair on one of my locks. Going to do the drivers side today. Thanks to everyone who posted and described this repair. It works as advertised.
I do however want to post a couple of thoughts after doing this.
1. I used a drill press to drill off the plastic rivet heads, Just flush with housing. As popsted on another post I left the metal rivets intact and pryed the housing apart and dropped the motor out, Didn't I really need to see the rest of the actuator.
2. When I replaced the motor I drilled the rivets thru from the previously removed head end using the previous drill center. I drilled these with a #36 bit for a 6-32 thread screw, I then ran a 6-32 tap thru these holes and refastened the actuator housing with 6-32 x 1/2" screws. Note I drilled all six plastic rivet heads but only tapped the four around the motor end. since the metal rivets are still intact on the other end.
3. When I took the motor apart I noticed the relationship between the end bell and the housing. In my case the motor terminals we're opposite the part numbers on the case, You could also make a scratch on the case to retain the orientation of the two parts, I believe this is why some people who have done this hava a reverse operation when reinstalled. Rotating the end bell is the same as swapping wires for the change of rotation. Rotating the end bell repositions the brushes on the armature,which changes the polarity.
any way I hope this sheds some additonal light on the problem and or solution and again thanks to all who found this
C.T.
Spec. 6-32 screws are the same size as the ones holding your switch and recp. plates on the devices in you house.
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