So, here's something else I noticed now that I've done both doors. The reassembly of the mechanisms inside the door isn't as difficult as their disassembly. In fact, there was really only one way to attach all the hooks and rods. Trying to do so differently doesn't seem like it would even work.
You can also operate the outer door handle, and the key mechanism, to help give you a clearer picture about what things attach to what. Between this, and moving the latch mechanism around with your fingers some while you've got it out, it's pretty obvious how stuff goes back together. At least, it was for me.
Yea, if you are a little mech inclined you can do it. The main thing is to have a little mechanics mirror, long skinny screwdrivers, a little flashlight, and maybe a telescoping magnet and long needlenose pliers.
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
well its been a year since i did mine with pennies.. their just starting to get weak again.. usually takes 2 tries to lock or unlock them now. not sure why they would though.. i don't think pennies can wear out lol
guess i'll have to take one apart and check it.
Strange, you can probably get some more at a wrecking yard.
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
well its been a year since i did mine with pennies.. their just starting to get weak again.. usually takes 2 tries to lock or unlock them now. not sure why they would though.. i don't think pennies can wear out lol
guess i'll have to take one apart and check it.
Interesting. I wonder if it's the motor finally wearing out or if the copper has corroded over?
Interesting. I wonder if it's the motor finally wearing out or if the copper has corroded over?
suspecting the motors.. cause i put dielectric gel on the pennies.
unless i have a deeper electrical prob.. my battery has been getting weaker since winter to.. although i believe its 9 years old so i'm changing that tonight.
suspecting the motors.. cause i put dielectric gel on the pennies.
unless i have a deeper electrical prob.. my battery has been getting weaker since winter to.. although i believe its 9 years old so i'm changing that tonight.
Very good idea.
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
It's not necessary to remove the metal rivets. I was able to pry the halves apart the first time and drop the motor out. Because I wasn't paying attention, I didn't see the "thermal fuse" in the motor cap and ended up drilling them out anyway looking for it in the case. I was going from memory here....
Not sure how to handle the plastic posts this way but I'm going to try it when I have to do the driver door. Probably just drill them out from behind and use the same screws.
I snapped off all the plastic stubs and drilled through from the back where there were small holes already. Don't know the drill bit size, just grabbed one that was about the size of the hole. For the end where the case is narrow, I put the case back together and drilled from the front side using the holes in the front cover to help center it up. I used #8 x 1/2" wood screws to put it back together.This worked well. I didn't worry about the metal rivets because they were all the way on the end and I didn't have any screws handy that would work there. I figured now being assembled with screws it might be ok. We'll see.
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Chris
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician
Current Vehicles:
2002 F-250 7.3L PSD 4x4 XLT
2002 Sunset Orange Mettalic WS6 Trans Am Convertible
I used pieces of rebar tie wire on the first one and wrapped them through the holes and twisted the ends. With the rest I just opened up the end by the motor and left the other rivets intact. I didn't see the little square wafer either at first. In fact I almost gave up on the idea after not finding it in there (at first).
Sooo.... After removing the minimal amout of rivets by the motor , I just opened it up like a clamshell and dropped it out. The contacts go up and the part # goes down. No need to mark anything. I used some screws that were lying around that happened to fit in the 2 holes but I dipped them in a good glue first. All 5 have been great for the last year and they lock with a whack..........
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
Can't believe i ran across this. Was about to buy actuators for three doors. Figures the only one it controls is my door. Gonna try it next weekend when I get back home. Really appreciate it.
well changed the battery.. for some reason the last owner had put a car battery in it.
new one has over twice the cranking amps. everything works great now.. except the door locks still too weak. so i guess they will have to come apart again. should be easier this time though.
Fixed my two passenger side doors last week with help from this site. FTE Rocks!!! Now I noticed one door on my wifes chrysler minivan is failing the same way BUT only when that door has been sitting in the sun. Then I realized that the two doors I fixed on my F-250 were the ones that saw more sun as they face mainly south when parked. I am not sure if this is coincedence or not. Was wonder if anybody else noticed this on thier vehicles.
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They told me it's not rocket surgery!
Fixed my two passenger side doors last week with help from this site. FTE Rocks!!! Now I noticed one door on my wifes chrysler minivan is failing the same way BUT only when that door has been sitting in the sun. Then I realized that the two doors I fixed on my F-250 were the ones that saw more sun as they face mainly south when parked. I am not sure if this is coincedence or not. Was wonder if anybody else noticed this on thier vehicles.
That makes sense because the thermisters (little square resister wafers) are very sensitive to heat. As soon as the electrical resistance builds up a little heat (from lying on the switch) they will quit transmitting juice. If you even use the switch a couple times in a row they will start to give up and the lock post just wiggles.
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
That makes sense because the thermisters (little square resister wafers) are very sensitive to heat. As soon as the electrical resistance builds up a little heat (from lying on the switch) they will quit transmitting juice. If you even use the switch a couple times in a row they will start to give up and the lock post just wiggles.
My thoughts exactly. I warned my wife about holding the lock/unlock switch too long may burn out the repaired motors (I used the 1 cent method) but she won't remember until its too late. Also, I have been working in electronics/computers for over 30 years but have never seen a thermistor type device like this. Kept one to play with.
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They told me it's not rocket surgery!
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sigh
