Update, Had a brainfart earlier, the part i pulled out was the window motor, put it back in and grabbed the right part, followed the instructions to the "T" that aluminum foil trick did the job, the driver side front and rear door now works, decided to do the hatch as well, and what you know, it works. this little fix saved me over $100.00
thanks all for the info and the directions.
Update, Had a brainfart earlier, the part i pulled out was the window motor, put it back in and grabbed the right part, followed the instructions to the "T" that aluminum foil trick did the job, the driver side front and rear door now works, decided to do the hatch as well, and what you know, it works. this little fix saved me over $100.00
thanks all for the info and the directions.
The hatch has the same setup. You can remove the motor from the hatch without removing the latching mechanism. I just unplugged and then removed the motor. There was just enough room to pull the motor out and leave the latch in.
Has anyone had their fixed locks work, and then start acting up like before? I fixed mine during the winter with the 2 cent fix, now they're just like they were before. I guess i'll have to break down and get new ones.
My thanks to the originator of this procedure. Without it I would have had to buy new actuators. It is easy and works.
I did this fix over a year ago on the driver side and it is working flawlessly. I now just did the passenger side of my 2000 f150. I think the fix is much better than buying a new one which could also fail.
The only thing I did differently was to epoxy the posts instead of replacing them with screws. After installing the repaired motor and snapping the two halves together I applied a small amount of epoxy to the shaft ends. Test it first because it will not be easy to disassemble it again. I believe this will be the final fix - better than new, and will outlive the truck.
No rods or rivets to remove. Just snaps out on my 2000 f150. Don't remove the wire connector until the actuator is out. Then reconnect it before reinstalling.I think its easier and if you drop it in the door it is easier to retrieve it.
Last edited by poko2002; 11-08-2008 at 03:12 PM.
Reason: typo
If anyone gets this far in this long thread I would like to say that (on my 2000 f150 xlt anyway) you DO NOT have to remove the entire lock assembly to remove the actuator. See the link in my prior post.
I removed one bolt which holds the window track for easier access. Snapped the actuator off the lock and removed the wire connector. No handles, locks, rods, or rivets etc to remove.
Have a 2002 F250 SD. Back doors were nover locking or unlocking ..... Did the fix to them and it works great.
Was going to do the fronts, but the torx head bolts are installed with loc-tite and two of them stripped out in the torx area .... of course one on each door. I'll have to drill them puppies out if I ever get the urge to fix these .... but they work for now so .... Hey!
Thanks for the ideas on this thread ..... works great.
I only pried up enough to remove the motor and then zip tied back around where the motor is. The worst part of the whole job is undoing them little clips for the rods ... everything else is gravy
im having a little trouble understanding this completely. does anyone have a detailed step by step instruction on how to do this.maybe some pictures too.thanks guys.if its easier to email me then my email is drgxxx@sbcglobal.net
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nitrous is like a gorgeous blonde with stds, you wanna hit it but your scared of the consequences
Doing my locks today. I got the assembly out of the door. I get it opened up. Take out the motor. BUT! What do you use to bend the tabs back that hold the motor together? They are tough little buggers! Must be an easier way to do this? I have tried prying them back but they are so pinched down onto the plastic I cant seem to get them up?
Doing my locks today. I got the assembly out of the door. I get it opened up. Take out the motor. BUT! What do you use to bend the tabs back that hold the motor together? They are tough little buggers! Must be an easier way to do this? I have tried prying them back but they are so pinched down onto the plastic I cant seem to get them up?
Any tips?
I used a very small blade screwdriver. WARNING don't try to bend them straight, just enough to get the back cover off. Hope you marked which way the motor came out. AND BE sure to put the back cover on exactly the same way it came off. Failure to do so may give you reversed door locks.
My problem is it appears they bent the tabs more than 90 degress right down into the plastic. Thought before I go crazy on them come and see what other's do or did. I have marked everything and read thru all the posts before but trying to go find this info back in the posts I didnt see anything but it could be I was scanning looking so I may have missed it?
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