Hey all have been lurking for a while searching for my truck I just got my PSD 99 CB LB and have found all kinds of little bugs that have been solved from this site.
My biggest items so far were the overhead computer (500 from dealer ) and the door locks (50 X 4 from dealer ) and god forbid if I would have had the dealer do the work. My cost Free.
Thanks everyone on the locks, all the input really made this go smooth. I went the cooper wire route and drilled the plastic studs and used some small finish screws I had. I would like to find a source for replacement motors closer to spec. if I run across any I will post the source.
Ok, my locks are not working right know. I push the unlock button and all the locks twitch but do not unlock. With the fix above fix that? 01 F250
The clue is that yours "twitch".
Yes, the above fix should work for you, but I'd be reading the entire thread (yes, ALL of it) before beginning, as there's some good tips along the way that will insure a good outcome, including not having them go the wrong direction after you finish.
Pop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks,
and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
This fix worked great. It cost me $0.04 to fix four doors. It took me a little time, but it was worth it. Thanks.
Glad the .01 fix worked. If you know how to solder I found another way to save $.01. Just use 18 ga copper wire about 1/4" long and solder around the end of the thermistor.
WARNING HOLDING THE BUTTON DOWN WITH THIS JUMPERED COULD BURN OUT THE MOTOR and all the rest of the disclaimers.
Remember to consult with your dr. before changing medications.
I completed this sometime back but had a recent issue arise with my fix. So here's a word for the wise... make sure when you reassemble the housing, you secure it very well. I had used some cheap 'all situation glue' because it was all I had at the time - the driver's door lock came 'unglued' and the gears jumped off track - you may surprised how much torque these little motors produce.
Of course this was a pretty easy fix, I just had to take the door back apart to do it. I added 2 zip ties around the housing. While I was at it, I zip tied the remaining ones as well.
I had one motor that I had previously fixed, fail completely - when I disassembled it I found that one of the little brushes at the tip of the motor (inside) had broken off. When you open the motor, you'll see 2 little copper springs that hold 2 little metal brushes - It appears that when I put it back together I didn't get the shaft in the middle and one of the springs was bent and the brush had snapped off. These things are tiny and I couldn't get back on - the motor is totally DOA now. So pay special attention to this when reassembling the motor. I wonder if I can find a replacement motor?
So out off four, I only need to buy one... better than having to buy 4!
Now I just need to get the rear hatch actuator fixed. It unlocks, but doesn't lock. I took the trim off and looked at how it was in there; it looked like too much of a task for me to complete at this time (some of the nuts will be a PIA to get to without some good swivles and extensions). So I treid just lubing everything with some Lithium to see if that freed it up - no luck. So for now, I just unplugged it.
JUST INFO on reattaching the cover plate after repairing. I drilled out the plastic rivet heads until they were just cut through enough to remove the head. Then On reassembly I drilled a 1/16" hole in each rivit. I used a round head screw and washer allowing the screw to cut new threads into the plastic post that remains after drilling the head off. With screws in there is no tie wraps to get brittle and crack and no glue to come apart. The screws will be permenant.
Finally broke down and did mine. A lot easier when you remove both the inner and outer door handles!!!!!!
Drilled off the top of the f&^%*&g plastic posts, then put a small pilot hole in each.
I took the thermistor, cleaned it, sanded down one edge and soldered a wire along the edge so that both sides were connected!!! FIXED!!!!! Screwed the thing back together, reinstalled.
Damn, the locks sure work nice now.
Good fix!
jammer
__________________
PSD #3 '95 loved it... '97 real POS...
2000 SC SB PSD E4OD 3.73 DS Predator (smokin') K&N Filter ISSPRO Gauges F**D Fog Lights Mickey Thompson 305/70 Baja ATZ 4" Dynomax Exhaust Sylvania SilverStar Lamps ARE Lid Very BLACK... Perfect!!
Finally broke down and did mine. A lot easier when you remove both the inner and outer door handles!!!!!!
Drilled off the top of the f&^%*&g plastic posts, then put a small pilot hole in each.
I took the thermistor, cleaned it, sanded down one edge and soldered a wire along the edge so that both sides were connected!!! FIXED!!!!! Screwed the thing back together, reinstalled.
If I had it to do over, I'd just drill a hole through the thermistor, insert wire, solder, sand flush and go. But, along the edge worked fine; just takes a little longer. I clamped the thermistor is a pair of hemostats and soldered the wire along the top edge. Being anal as I am, I then sanded the whole affair flat, rounded the corners, looks factory . Hey, saved $100 just in parts!!
happy camper!!
jammer
__________________
PSD #3 '95 loved it... '97 real POS...
2000 SC SB PSD E4OD 3.73 DS Predator (smokin') K&N Filter ISSPRO Gauges F**D Fog Lights Mickey Thompson 305/70 Baja ATZ 4" Dynomax Exhaust Sylvania SilverStar Lamps ARE Lid Very BLACK... Perfect!!
JUST INFO on reattaching the cover plate after repairing. I drilled out the plastic rivet heads until they were just cut through enough to remove the head. Then On reassembly I drilled a 1/16" hole in each rivit. I used a round head screw and washer allowing the screw to cut new threads into the plastic post that remains after drilling the head off. With screws in there is no tie wraps to get brittle and crack and no glue to come apart. The screws will be permenant.
Exactly how I did mine, too!
Keeps the job neat, and it's now servicable.
Pop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks,
and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
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) and the door locks (50 X 4 from dealer 
.
If you know how to solder I found another way to save $.01. Just use 18 ga copper wire about 1/4" long and solder around the end of the thermistor.
