I did the fix. It worked for awhile, then quit after a long trip. The only thing i can figure is my wife fell asleep on the button and overheated the motors. That is why the thermal resistor is there in the first place, i guess. I took it all apart, the gear has melted, the brushes are burnt to dust, its bad.
Took one of my motors apart today - it is a capacitor, when it charges it stops the current flow. Check your basic electronics book....
Sorry, the device is a PTC thermistor (plate design). Its design is to switch to a high resistance when a certain temperature is crossed thereby providing protection to the motor. The real trick would be to replace the thermistor with a suitable substitute. I am researching, but it would really help if someone in Johnson controls (maker of the motor) had a part # to help us out.
As some have found out, without the thermistor, there is a danger of melting the motor if power is applied for too long of a time.
Is that a stock replacement or an aftermarket add on. I mean do I just take off the old and bolt on new, it fits right in. I've looked at actuators that you can add to any vehicle, but not sure if want that.
As some have found out, without the thermistor, there is a danger of melting the motor if power is applied for too long of a time.
jermort
Correct,, you could just add the thermister in series with the plug and not inside the motor. This would still work and the thermistor could be a generic bought on the 12 v spec for temp rise. But why the effort. Why not just lay off the buttons.
Correct,, you could just add the thermister in series with the plug and not inside the motor.
But then it wouldn't shut off when the motor got hot
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- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
But then it wouldn't shut off when the motor got hot
If the thermister is in series with the motor brushes, and the power flows too long the resistance in the thermistor will go up to over 1000 ohms which will cut the current flow to 12 ma's which is .144 watts and not enough to burn a motor out. This is why you would put the thermister in series in the wiring. The plate thermistor is already in series with the brushes but internal.
The plate thermistor is already in series with the brushes but internal.
Oh, I thought that was the thermistor you were talking about
__________________
- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
can i use vaseline instead of dielectric grease on the penny? something else comparable? buying dielectric grease raises the cost of this fix by a staggering amount!
can i use vaseline instead of dielectric grease on the penny? something else comparable? buying dielectric grease raises the cost of this fix by a staggering amount!
thanx for all the great info in this thread btw.
radio shack sells it in small tubes about 1 oz for low cost. If you don't have the grease just use the copper w/o. Better though because the grease stops the corrosion.
K, I have to say, I am a much happier dude right now. I can't remember where I found the info, been searching on here so I could reply, but gave up.
Long story short, there is a posting in here somewhere stating how one guy fixed his actuators. I didn't want to spend $100 CDN each or buy some cheap crap off Ebay that wasn't specific to my truck, so I went through the steps this guy posted and man, am I impressed!!!!!!
To whom ever that was that posted about how to fix the actuators by getting at the little motors and replacing the thermal resistor, THANK YOU!!!!!! This was the best fix with NO COST I have ever done. Best part is that now the gear box (actuator housing) is now servicable. LOVE IT!!!!!
Cheers man!
:-)
PS - I can post that information on here if anyone else is interested, I just want to make sure no one thinks this was my idea, I most certainly do not want to take credit for this.
I would like to know the process for fixing my power door lock actuator please.
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Try this link. Worked great for me!
