I just completed this and I am surprised at how well this really works. Thank you for posting such detailed instructions. My drivers side door lock now works better than new.
Fixed my driver's door this way today. Clips were the hardest part for me.
Aluminum foil. Whooda' thunkit?
Thanks kalsc!
Pop
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
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2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
Thanks for the great info, this really works well! I took mine apart today and now they work like new. Here are some pics to help out with the fix, the are resized for dial-up (hey get high speed, I am in a third world country and have it!). I put this back a little different. I used that plastic epoxy stuff around the edges, I held the two halves together with vice grips until it was hard.
Pic one is the unit after the two rivits were removed
Prying the unit apart
The open unit minus the motor
Prying the two tabs open on the motor
The opened motor the little metal piece to wrap in tin foil is on the left side of the cap
Now the motor getting ready to be put back together the part is wraped in foil on the right side in this pic.
Hope this helps
Scott
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Scott
99 F250 Super Duty 4X4 XLT V10 5 SPD
98 Explorer 4X4 XLT 4.0 SOHC Auto
My only observation is that this could be a diode or resistor (or some odd part) to prevent voltage spikes in one direction or the other from frying some part.
I don't doubt that the 'fix' works (and that it's a clever solution), but it's not inconceivable that there might be downstream issues with this.
Then again, I installed aftermarket door lock motors, so who am I to talk ;-)
Steve
Steve, very true. It could be a diode to prevent any EMF that happens when the solenoid is de-energized and the field of the coil collapses. Over time it may (read, NOT will) cause problems.
I use 12vdc and 24vdc relays and solenoids at work all day long. All coil connections get a diode strapped across them to prevent just this. Sometimes the collapsing coil can generate enough voltage to do some damage. Kind of like an electric fan turning itself into a generator when its turned off but spinning from the air passing over it.
My driver side door lock went the same way, 2002 super duty. I took the easy way out and purchased a new one from local ford dealer. The parts guy told me that this one is a new and improved one and I noticed that it is put together with screws for easy dissasembly if needed. Price was 103.00 CDN plus tax. Install took about one hour. I will try to take the old one apart and repair it for the next time one goes out.
Steve, very true. It could be a diode to prevent any EMF that happens when the solenoid is de-energized and the field of the coil collapses. Over time it may (read, NOT will) cause problems.
I use 12vdc and 24vdc relays and solenoids at work all day long. All coil connections get a diode strapped across them to prevent just this. Sometimes the collapsing coil can generate enough voltage to do some damage. Kind of like an electric fan turning itself into a generator when its turned off but spinning from the air passing over it.
Just my thoughts....
Even if this leads to problems it does not matter. The only other way to fix it is buy a new one. So I fix mine save the money now, if it does burn out later then I will buy another. If it works OK I am ahead of the game.
This is just a bad design by Ford, and the only thing we can hurt in the fix is a badly designed part. I do not see any other issue outside of this part since there is a fuse. How can it hurt any other part?
I do not know if anyone else has seen this but my doors now look and unlock opposite of what the control says. This may however be something that was done before (not me) to fix them. I need to trace the wires to find the problem, just need the time.
__________________
Scott
99 F250 Super Duty 4X4 XLT V10 5 SPD
98 Explorer 4X4 XLT 4.0 SOHC Auto
Even if this leads to problems it does not matter. The only other way to fix it is buy a new one........
I meant it could cause other things on the truck to fail from backfeeding voltage.
BUT........... I don't think that will happen. I did mine today and that thing that gets wrapped in foil is a 7 ohm resistor. I actuallt drilled the plastic pieces and them ziptied it shut. I used 2 small zipties in each hole. Works like a champ!
Can someone tell me how to disassemble the door panel? We want to try to do my dads truck but I only remember that there are supposed to be some tricks and difficulties taking the door panels off to access the lock assemblys. Or is there a way without removing the panel? Jeff
Remove the power door lock panel, it just pops off. (if it's a front door remove the black panel inside of the mirror above the power door lock panel) Then remove the reflector. There is one screw under the reflector and one under the power door lock panel. remove them and the panel just lifts up and off. Simply the easiest door panels I've ever dealt with......
Thanks that was what I needed to know. We got it whipped and my dad is tickled pink. Had to take the cables off the batteries to reset the computer in order to make them work properly. they worked opposite of the key fob and while that was almost enough to drive us crazy(that or the 105 degree heat in full sun) after disassembling them three times and double checking everything we got it figured out. Thanks again all. Jeff
Did it this weekend after putting it off for what seems like ever. It was as easy as everyone said, however, it was a little more difficult to get the lock out of the door or at least for me. Too many cables and links. Anyway thanks to all for the ideas, Another free fix from FTE.
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