I have a 2001 Ford Exlporer Sport. None of the PDL's work including the 3rd door. Someone said it might be a relay. Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution? I looked at the fuse for the locks and it was fine.fficeffice" />>>
I found this site yesterday and most importantly this thread. Today I fixed my PDLs in my 99 F-150. After reading every post I went with the .01 copper fix and the locks now work flawlessly. I still can't believe I fixed both doors for ONE penny!!!! The job was easy due to the detailed instructions in this thread. All I can say is Awsome and thanks to everyone who posted this helpful information on this site.
Hi I own a F250 xlt (This is a Mexican truck, Iīm from Monterrey Mexico)...I have found this site very interesting and has helped me troubleshoot some issues in my truck.
The issue that Iīm having right now is the PDL actuator (all the same symptoms that you stated in this thread). I already tried to take out the PDL from the passenger side, but I canīt! I already took out the 3 torx screws, and also I took out the metal connection between the PDL and the Lock itself. But itīs still attached to the key metal connection I canīt reach that clip! Also I tried to take out the door handle, but also, it has an interior screw that for me itīs unreachable, so thatīs no option!
Any ideas how can I take out the actuator. I already read two times all the thread but I still can take out the PDL.
Does anyone have a quick way to remove door panel to get at lock mechanism without damaging panel. Thanks
Yes,,, after you have removed all the attachment item holding the door panel slide it vertical to get the hooks off of the door frame. This will prevent damage to them and allow you to reuse the panel without damage.
After two years of frustration with my 2000 X I decided it was time to fix the door locks. I searched online to see if I could find some aftermarket OEM type actuators and found this thread instead!!! THANKS TO ALL OF YOU! I fixed my lock actuators last night and it only cost me .03!
I did have to go back and re-do the cases on two of them as I drilled off the rivets and found that that end needs to be secure! Re-melting plastic won't cut it on the ends! Also made up some tools for holding the brushes apart while re-installing the end cap of the motor over the armature and found out that they won't take too much effort to bend the little brass arms holding them! I had to reopen one of the three to fix the brush arms! But I got done and now my locks go up and down with the push of the button once each time!!
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'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
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'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
All I got to say is that this might have been the best cheap fix I have ever found. Its right up there with resoldering the chips in the over head display. The only difference I did was I put two heav duty wire ties holding the plug end of the case together. Good tight fit and works flawlessly.
I did all 4 of my doors and they worked great for about 6 months. Then one by one they failed again. I have redone them all trying pennys, foil and copper wire. they just won't work for more than two weeks. I Had to buy new actuators from ford. The good news is they are redesigned. They don't look like the ones that came in my 2000 f250. They seem to have a stronger motor. The stealership charged me $57.00 each. You don't realize what a great feature power door locks are till you don't have them.
Budman
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But I got done and now my locks go up and down with the push of the button once each time!!
on!
