Tried this on both of my doors. It worked great, long enough for me to get everything put back together, then the driver side just died all together. Had to pull everything back apart, tried to get it to work, but was completely kaput. Went and bought an aftermarket actuator and put that in. The pax side is still working for now, but I'm a little concerned it too will fail at some point. Oh well, if it does I guess I'll just replace it too. For now seems to be doing fine.
It did take a considerable amount of time to do the first one. But now I can have the thing out and replaced, and panels back on in around 30 minutes. Not sure why that one shut down, seems most everyone else is having great luck. Definitely a good post.
Not sure why that one shut down, seems most everyone else is having great luck. Definitely a good post.
Could be defective motor,, bad brushes, gears didn't mesh correctly,, low brush tension. This is a good repair but even with the repair it is possible to have failure. My repaired have been over a year now and still going strong. I bought 2 before I found how to repair and the 2 factory will probably fail before the repaired.
Tried this on both of my doors. It worked great, long enough for me to get everything put back together, then the driver side just died all together. Had to pull everything back apart, tried to get it to work, but was completely kaput. Went and bought an aftermarket actuator and put that in. The pax side is still working for now, but I'm a little concerned it too will fail at some point. Oh well, if it does I guess I'll just replace it too. For now seems to be doing fine.
It did take a considerable amount of time to do the first one. But now I can have the thing out and replaced, and panels back on in around 30 minutes. Not sure why that one shut down, seems most everyone else is having great luck. Definitely a good post.
Same thing happened to mine. I got it hooked back up and the lock worked but I noticed a puff of smoke. After a couple of tries and and some more smoke it died all together. Had to install a new unit.
Same thing happened to mine. I got it hooked back up and the lock worked but I noticed a puff of smoke. After a couple of tries and and some more smoke it died all together. Had to install a new unit.
All electrical equipment comes with smoke built in,, when you let it out they quit working.
You really have to be careful installing the thermistor and insure the brushes are correct. Small details here will let the smoke out.
This is why I now use the $.01 repair or the 18 ga. copper wire soldered around the end. It is a very clean installation and helps to keep the smoke it. Jim
The smoke thing is funny. My passenger actuator is still working, I did them both the same. I will admit I wasn't ablt to get the little tabs on the elect. motor back down, but I hoped the snug fit would hold it together within' tolerance. Oh well, guess one held and one didn't. Still saved me 60 bucks.
The smoke thing is funny. My passenger actuator is still working, I did them both the same. I will admit I wasn't ablt to get the little tabs on the elect. motor back down, but I hoped the snug fit would hold it together within' tolerance. Oh well, guess one held and one didn't. Still saved me 60 bucks.
If you don't bend the tabs back down the end bell and brushes won't stay in place. I use a used dental tool for this job. High grade steel very small works well. I think you found your problem. Jim
Ya, thanx for the info guys its works, but the whole process is a pain in the ass, gotta love ford though, who would have thought it was that easy of a fix, after u spent the time tearring it apart.
Did the fix on my Drivers door today. Now it works great with the remote, but I could not figure out how to attach the linkage from the keyhole lock back to the actuator.
It was getting dark so I put it all back together.
So now, I can unlock the door with the remote, but not the key.
Can anyone provide instruction on which way that goofy piece of metal with all the twists is supposed to attach? A photo would be nice. I tried it every which way.
Thanks! I'm in Portland, OR right now...anyone around here that knows?
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1999 F250 SuperCab PowerStroke 7.3 2x4
230k miles and rolling strong. 17/19 mpg
Muffler and CC delete
A/C heater core mod
boost, tranny, egt gauges
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5th Wheel - 34 foot Jayco Designer XL
That's 100 percent correct, you have to be quite careful when you re-assemble otherwise it will burn out on you. As stated above, attention to detail and taking your time on this is key. I like the soldered wire idea, that would look much cleaner. Just thought I'd chime in and state that all four of my locks are still working 100% since I posted. Glad to see this has been so effective for so many people. Cheers! KALSC
Does anyone know where the relay would be for the door locks? I have had both quit at the same time, so I doubt it is the motors, its not the fuse, not the switches. I have checked the owners manual and it does not list a relay. I have checked alldata and it only says " in the center of the instrument pannel". I had the big cover off under the steering column and the stereo out, dug arround a bit, and couldn't find it. I can hear the ting of a relay when i press the switch, but can't pin point it. Has anyone had to replace one?
At first I thought it was my relays as well. I found mine in a box mounted on/near the firewall while reaching in from the stereo hole. All of mine went at once too which was very odd, but the fix was to jump the thermister in the lock motor, not the relays, in my case anyway.
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