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Old 01-05-2006, 10:53 AM
loveoldtrux loveoldtrux is offline
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"BEST" wheel bearing grease?

HI guys - almost lost my life because of one of the front wheel bearings locked up and pulled the wheel to a hard left while going down the road . I know I packed the wheel bearing (and cleaned it) last summer and adjusted it back properly..... when I eventually got the rotor off, I could see the grease that'd been packed in there had been degraded to practically plain oil (valvo-line multipurpose grease - allowing the roller bearings to freeze up and weld the remainder to the bearing housing - looks like I'll just need to replace the rotor and bearing - spindle was saved).

I was wondering is there a "better" grease to use to pack these wheel bearings with (2WD)? Seems to me, years ago when I did brakes for a living the grease was MUCH thicker than this Valvoline stuff. Any suggestions?...
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:39 AM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
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I have used the Quaker State High Temp disc brake brake wheel bearing grease for years without problems.

I assume other companies have it available as well.
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:55 AM
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That's an odd one. I've never heard of grease just degrading into liquid like that. I would suspect that the excess heat may have caused whatever grease was left to degrade to that condition?
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I have used that less expensive blue grease in a short can about 4 inches round. I think it was the Lubrimatic brand? Never had a problem with it. Then I switched to the long tubes of high temp grease that fits in my grease gun. It was just easier and less mess, than the tubs of grease. Never had any problems with this tube grease either.
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The condition of the Bearings and Cage, and Bearing Races in the rotor when you cleaned it last summer would be in question.
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The two questions I would have are:
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1) Did you thouroughly inspect the bearings and cage after you cleaned them to make sure there was not excess play in them?
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2) Did you inspect or replace the bearing race in the rotor?
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When I inspected my 78 F150 front bearings, they were in good condition, but one of the races was worn so the bearings sank too deeply into the hole. I replaced both right and left front bearing races at the same time, repacked the bearings with the tube gun grease and haven't had a problem sense. That was about 3 years ago.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:07 PM
loveoldtrux loveoldtrux is offline
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Thanks for the feedback, fellas. Maybe it's just a fluke that it went bad.... like I've been packing bearings for 42 years now.....(GOD how time flies!!...). I just bought brand new bearings for the rotor AND seals.... I'll go ahead and try the Quaker State grease (this has never failed me in the past - last I remember, it comes in a green tub).

True - the remainder of the grease in the bearings was changed to oil..... I imagine heat did it (???) - the right spindle grease cap was cool to the touch when I got home (normal), but the drivers side was HOT!! I imagine the grease will break down when subjected to abnormal heat......

Thanks again fellas....
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveoldtrux
...I just bought brand new bearings for the rotor AND seals....

Did the new bearings come with races too? When I bought my bearings I had to buy the races seperately.
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:10 PM
loveoldtrux loveoldtrux is offline
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Yup - the new Timken bearings came with new races.... I'll definitely replace them at the same time...
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:50 PM
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If the wrong types of grease are accidentally mixed they turn into useless oil sludge. Your local petro supplier should be able to explain the situation better than I, but i know it can happen. It is similar to mixing dino and synthetic gear lube.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:00 PM
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Yup - the new Timken bearings came with new races.... I'll definitely replace them at the same time...
Very good. You'll have it made in the shade in no time. Good luck.
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P.S. If you don't have a bearing race installer tool you might want to check out this thread:
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http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163523&highlight=bearing
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:00 PM
loveoldtrux loveoldtrux is offline
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Where to get it?...

Anybody know where I can GET the Quaker wheel bearing grease? I've checked autozone / advance auto parts / walmart and napa and they don't carry it. I tried reaching Quaker and they don't respond to email...
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:40 PM
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i have not seen quaker state grease in years. not since it became part of SOPUS. Mobil makes a great grease. runs 8.00 for the container. wheel bearing grease seperates at 400 degrees so that thing must have gotten hot.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:42 PM
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http://www.quakerstate.com/index.asp

Chevron/Texaco make one as well.

Last edited by Mil1ion; 01-05-2006 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 01-05-2006, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveoldtrux
.... I imagine heat did it (???) - the right spindle grease cap was cool to the touch when I got home (normal), but the drivers side was HOT!! I imagine the grease will break down when subjected to abnormal heat...... .
If one side was hot and the other side was cool, it sounds to me like you've got a problem on that one side.

I blew up a bearing once due to cheap low temperature grease. Nearly killed myself in the process. I've learned my lesson and I read the grease tube very carefully now.
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:45 PM
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I just recently lost a bearing in my 70. Luckily when she started ticking, i parked it. The front small bearing was out. Some tard that packed the bearings before, didn't grease the bearing themselves, just filled the center with grease. I picked up a tube of lucas grease. It's supposed to be the best around. It's a little more expensive though ($4.30), but if it keeps me from wrecking, it's money well spent.
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Old 01-06-2006, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjay460
If the wrong types of grease are accidentally mixed they turn into useless oil sludge. Your local petro supplier should be able to explain the situation better than I, but i know it can happen. It is similar to mixing dino and synthetic gear lube.
Never mix lithuim and molly grease is what I've been told. If you change from one to the other, do a thorough clean out. The two chemically counter each other resulting in no lube.

I think the brand I buy is Coastal, it may say "for wheel bearings" and "disc brakes". The front might say many things, I always read the back. I always buy Moly (or Moly compatible) and choose the highest "Drop point".

I don't worry too much about "wash-out resistance". If I get it wet today, I'll be re-packing tonight. Those pressure packers are the greatest invention since sliced bread. LOL
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Old 01-06-2006, 11:26 AM
loveoldtrux loveoldtrux is offline
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Thanks guys for the feedback -

I think I'll order some of the Quaker product later today from midwest supply (since it's not available locally in Georgia) - it's what I've used for years (40) and never had a problem; then I'll DUMP the valvoline garbage
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Old 01-06-2006, 11:26 AM
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