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Old 01-03-2006, 10:02 PM
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fuel delivery fix

Getting ready to do my own reroute of the fuel delivery and going with the external reg set-up. Have a Kirban reg coming and a fuel pressure gauge too.
Got my hosing at IHC.
Any tips, warnings ,looking back with hindsight...etc.
Got a lot of Kwiks data on his air bleed set-up ....excellent info!
I want to correct this poor design.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:26 AM
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Maybe start putting liquid wrench on the plugs on the backs of the heads. Are you going to run the fuel through the heads? I'd also consider a fuel cooler if you are. I am going to before next summer. Your fuel in your tank will rise to 160+ which in itself isn't a problem but your pump doesn't like it. I'm thinking an aluminum 30" straight through design on both the pump side and the return side. You may also pull off your pump and see if there is crap in the screen which seems to be a common issue.
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:15 PM
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Which hosing did you get from IHC?
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Old 01-04-2006, 02:11 PM
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You're going to be amazed at how much better the engine sounds on the freeway.
And wonder why you waited so long.
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Old 01-04-2006, 02:13 PM
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Have you Hutched the fuel tank and gotten rid of all the quick connects? That made a bigger difference than modifying the fuel rails on my truck.
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:58 PM
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I wasn't aware that the fuel delivery had a problem to begin with. What up the this? I will watch this thread and hopefully learn.
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wings
I wasn't aware that the fuel delivery had a problem to begin with. What up the this? I will watch this thread and hopefully learn.
This will get you started. If you dig down for all the information, be ready for a long read.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=260173

And LarryM over on the diesel stop has compiled a HUGE list of good things to read. Plan on devoting a LOONNNGGGG time to read it all.

Cat=&Number=1173329&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Have you Hutched the fuel tank and gotten rid of all the quick connects? That made a bigger difference than modifying the fuel rails on my truck.
Nope haven't done that yet...i plan on installing a FASS. Would i still need that mod Kwik?
Got to admit that working on a fuel tank is a little intimidating to me.
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
Maybe start putting liquid wrench on the plugs on the backs of the heads. Are you going to run the fuel through the heads? I'd also consider a fuel cooler if you are. I am going to before next summer. Your fuel in your tank will rise to 160+ which in itself isn't a problem but your pump doesn't like it. I'm thinking an aluminum 30" straight through design on both the pump side and the return side. You may also pull off your pump and see if there is crap in the screen which seems to be a common issue.
Excellent ideas Fat...thank you!
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:11 PM
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Thanks Kwik. I will have to get to it tomorrow. Seems like something has just come up that I need to attend to. Thanks again
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wings
I wasn't aware that the fuel delivery had a problem to begin with. What up the this? I will watch this thread and hopefully learn.
this drawing is courtesy of the great graphic artist known as "Kwikest Painterest"
...it is how i'm setting up my fuel delivery system with the exception of the return routing. I'm going thru an external regulator(red block in picture). Connecting a fuel pressure guage to the unused port on the filter housing assembly and mounting it in a position to be determined. I have the SS HPOP cover which is larger than the plastic cover so i have to work around it...any suggestions on a good mounting spot is appreciated.
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSNut
Nope haven't done that yet...i plan on installing a FASS. Would i still need that mod Kwik?
Got to admit that working on a fuel tank is a little intimidating to me.
You don't really need to Hutch the tank as long as you always run 1/4 tank or more. What the worst problem is: is the quick connects that attach the fuel lines to the tank and the fuel pump. As the fuel is drawn through the line from the tank to the pump they allow air to bleed into the fuel supply, contaminating the fuel with air. You don't have to pull the tank to get rid of them, but it's tight on top of the tank. You must change out those quick connects for a piece of flex line and hose clamps, preferably two clamps per union at 180 from each other. One head on top of the hose and the other head on the bottom of the hose. That's where the majority of the problem begins, not in the tank. If you want to get that air seperator in there, that's great, but you don't really need it if you eliminate the quick connects.
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:33 PM
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Need a blow up of that diagram?
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
You don't really need to Hutch the tank as long as you always run 1/4 tank or more. What the worst problem is: is the quick connects that attach the fuel lines to the tank and the fuel pump. As the fuel is drawn through the line from the tank to the pump they allow air to bleed into the fuel supply, contaminating the fuel with air. You don't have to pull the tank to get rid of them, but it's tight on top of the tank. You must change out those quick connects for a piece of flex line and hose clamps, preferably two clamps per union at 180 from each other. One head on top of the hose and the other head on the bottom of the hose. That's where the majority of the problem begins, not in the tank. If you want to get that air seperator in there, that's great, but you don't really need it if you eliminate the quick connects.
WOW! What's with that design? What was Ford thinking? I can see that happening with those quick connects too.
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Need a blow up of that diagram?
I downloaded that diagram from your other post. I'll have to start playing around with MS paint more often.
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