exhaust manifold to flange leak - stripped bolt
#1
exhaust manifold to flange leak - stripped bolt
Hello all,
Looking for ideas on what to do with my annoying situation. I have a 97 f150 4x4, 4.6L, 5spd w/150,000miles roughly. I have just had an exhaust leak start on the left side and have pinpointed it to the flange to manifold interface.
It looks like one of the nuts on the manifold is rusted/stripped and a 1/2 socket just turns on it. There is lots of metal on the muffler side of the flange, it just looks like age and wear have taken the toll.
Would you suggest replacing the manifolds (very rusty, but not leaking) or just trying to replace the flange bolt or something.
Thanks in advance.
mr_m
Looking for ideas on what to do with my annoying situation. I have a 97 f150 4x4, 4.6L, 5spd w/150,000miles roughly. I have just had an exhaust leak start on the left side and have pinpointed it to the flange to manifold interface.
It looks like one of the nuts on the manifold is rusted/stripped and a 1/2 socket just turns on it. There is lots of metal on the muffler side of the flange, it just looks like age and wear have taken the toll.
Would you suggest replacing the manifolds (very rusty, but not leaking) or just trying to replace the flange bolt or something.
Thanks in advance.
mr_m
#3
#4
I had the same thing on my 97. It was a pain but I drilled out the rusted bolt and put in a new one. You need to crank it pretty hard so get a grade 8 or so. When you think that it is as tight as you can get it crank some more. Mikne has held for better than a year now and NO problems
Good Luck
Ps it is a two man job. and you need a flexable extention and some creativity to drill the bolt.
Good Luck
Ps it is a two man job. and you need a flexable extention and some creativity to drill the bolt.
#5
Originally Posted by christaylor
I had the same thing on my 97. It was a pain but I drilled out the rusted bolt and put in a new one. You need to crank it pretty hard so get a grade 8 or so. When you think that it is as tight as you can get it crank some more. Mikne has held for better than a year now and NO problems
Good Luck
Ps it is a two man job. and you need a flexable extention and some creativity to drill the bolt.
Good Luck
Ps it is a two man job. and you need a flexable extention and some creativity to drill the bolt.
#6
That is the hard side (hard to get to). Remove the inner fender and use a grinder where possable to cut the bolt/s and remove the exchaust manifold. That way you can drill and tap it a lot easier. You may be able to find a manifold at a junk yard with better threads. And be sure and pick up a tube of "antiseze" at your local auto shop so this won't happen next time.
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