I'm new to this site... so forgive me if it looks like I don't know what I'm doing. I just noticed recently that my clutch was rermaining on the floor sometimes when I engaged it, so I replaced my clutch master cylinder about eight days ago. Now just to be safe I would like to replace my slave cylinder, but I don't know its exact location. If anyone could help me out, it would be much appreciated. I drive a 1995 F150 with a 4.9L in it.
If I remember I replaced mine 2 yrs. ago, when I did my clutch. Its blue in color, and its an Internal type. Ford went to internal Slave cylinders about 1991 or so. I think you have to remove bell-housing. unless I cannot remember if there is an access hole. I do not think there is. Little spendy, got mine from Ford dealer, but glad I remembered to do it while I was in there.
1997 F-150 4x4 4.6L long box, reg. cab.
Maroon w/ topper side open windows. Hitch
58K for miles. Excellent condition.
No mods. All stock. Good high grade tires.
3:55 rear w/ limited slip factory.
You most likely have the Mazda 5 speed (M5R2), which has an integral bell housing. You'll have to drop the whole transmission to get at the concentric slave cylinder which mounts over the main input shaft. Besides dropping the transmission the hardest part is actually disconnecting the line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I'm not sure how many miles you've got on your clutch or what shape it's in, but you might think about replacing the clutch assembly and resurfacing the flywheel while you're in there. Kill two birds with one stone...
Thanks AndyM and Lexluther69...Huge help, I'm already glad I joined FTE. I appreciate it.
One other question though... My truck only has 73000 miles on it, and I am not the original owner so I don't know how the other guy drove it, but I guess I'm just asking what is the normal mileage on these trucks when the clutch starts to go out?
my slave cylinder is being fixed as we speak only 4hrs labor to do it and also rear main and pilot bearing at the local trusty shop. i was originally planning to do it myself, but caved. i'm a little glad i didn't, last night my father and i tried to bleed the system to get her to the shop. from what looks like a simple procedure to a pain in the butt. plus it didn't improve it that much. i can't imagine bleeding it back to normal.
i think 73,000 miles is early for a clutch, but not unusual for the slave cylinder.
1996 Ford F-150 Eddie Bauer, RC/LB, 4x2
4.9L 300CID I-6, M5OD 5-Speed Manual
Andym, I'm jealous!! I had a hell of a time getting mine disconnected... both times I've gone at it!
I was DREADING working on that line. I finally decided to have at it one night when I basically had to because there wasn't much else I could do. I played with it for about 30 seconds, and it just popped right off in my hand. Huh. Cool.
70k is really early for a clutch. I've gotten 100k and 150k out of the two M5OD's that I had.
The 100k truck had a 3.08 rear end, the 150k one had a 3.55 rear end - I wonder if that had anything to do with it?
Andy 2000 Excursion Limited 7.3L 4x4 V/mod B spring swap * S&B CAI * Hellwig anti-sway bar * MBRP 4" exhaust * 25 cent mod * hutch mod * 6.0 cooler
"If you want to live in a country that manufactures things, you need to buy things that your country manufactures." - Mike Rowe
I think there's a special tool to disconnect the line. Depending on price, it might be worth buying it for a tough one rather than fighting it. I've never had trouble with one though. A fairly small straight screwdriver works to help push in the white piece.
I'm at 180K and on my third slave cylinder, second clutch. First slave cylinder was replaced at 110K, and it was actually the throwout bearing that went bad. I didn't know much about mechanics then, so I had it done and had them put a new clutch in at the same time. That slave cylinder went bad about 140K. No problems since. With the way the rest of this truck has held up, I'm fairly sure I would still be able to be on my first clutch.
There is a tool available, it is a little cyndrical piece that clips over the line, then you slide it into the white piece and it undoes the clip for you. I have always gotten it by hand though,but some guys at the shop prefer the tool set (includes several diferent sizes). They prefer it becouse it pushes the clip evenly and there is less chance of it getting stuck.
As for how long your clutch should last it almost always debends on the driver. Yes there are cheap rebuilds that wear out faster, but you will find that someone who rests there foot on the clutch pedal will wear out the clutch and the bearing faster (and since the bearing is part of the slave you will have to replace it sooner).
And I have found through personal experiance (these are just my personal findings and may not be completely correct) that someone who jumps on the pedal hard and fast, will wear out the hydrolic parts faster, and peaple who have the tendancy to hold the clutch down while sitting for a long length of time (waiting for a slow train for example) will wear out the hydrolics (primarily the master) faster than someone who puts it in nuetral and releases the clutch.
If you are at 73000 and replacing the hydrolics already then the po might have bean someone who "jumped" on the clutch instead of releasing steadly. Again this is just my personal theory and may not be entirly correct.
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