clutch triple switch -> saftey neutral switch
#1
clutch triple switch -> saftey neutral switch
Nothing like a customized vehicle to make you pull your hair out :-)
I have a 1990 2.9l Ranger that came with a standard but was converted to an automatic. I didn't do the conversion but I have to get it through a saftey check.
none of the wire colors on the truck for the saftety neutral switch or the clutch triple switch match any model/engine combo in the Haynes manual ... so that sucks eh?
So my plan at this point is take the simplest route and run two wires from the clutch switch down to the neutral switch. But because the wire color codes don't match my manual I don't know which to use.
the clutch switch has 6 wires, 2 pink, 2 lt green, 1 white/blck and 1 blck/white. One of the pink wires shows 12 volts with the key held in the start position. The manual indicates bridging the pink to the red/lt blue ... cept that doesn't exist.
I'm guessing that the pink goes to the pink but I have no reason to beleive that except that it makes sense .... yah, been down that road before.
So seeing as trial and error with high amperage live wires tends to make my eyes water from the smoke I thought I'd take a moment and consult you wonderfully intelligent and always knowledgeable Ford nuts.
I have a 1990 2.9l Ranger that came with a standard but was converted to an automatic. I didn't do the conversion but I have to get it through a saftey check.
none of the wire colors on the truck for the saftety neutral switch or the clutch triple switch match any model/engine combo in the Haynes manual ... so that sucks eh?
So my plan at this point is take the simplest route and run two wires from the clutch switch down to the neutral switch. But because the wire color codes don't match my manual I don't know which to use.
the clutch switch has 6 wires, 2 pink, 2 lt green, 1 white/blck and 1 blck/white. One of the pink wires shows 12 volts with the key held in the start position. The manual indicates bridging the pink to the red/lt blue ... cept that doesn't exist.
I'm guessing that the pink goes to the pink but I have no reason to beleive that except that it makes sense .... yah, been down that road before.
So seeing as trial and error with high amperage live wires tends to make my eyes water from the smoke I thought I'd take a moment and consult you wonderfully intelligent and always knowledgeable Ford nuts.
#2
had a thought
The pink wire that has power with the key in the on position is obviously the correct wire and that matches the manual. Its the other side of the circuit where the wire does not match. If I run a temporary wire from the solenoid to the cab I should be able to use the continuity test in my multi meter to find the correct wire. I'm betting its the other pink wire.
Does anyone know what all of the wires on the clutch switch do? The two lt green ones in particular as I spent some time looking at the diagrams and I don't see lt green used anywhere for anything.
Does anyone know what all of the wires on the clutch switch do? The two lt green ones in particular as I spent some time looking at the diagrams and I don't see lt green used anywhere for anything.
#3
The oldest Ranger wiring diagram I have at home is a 1992 so the colors of some of the wires are probably different.
The green wires should be for the cruise control deactivation. When the clutch is pressed the cruise shuts off.
The manual shows LB/Y and Gy/R going to the PCM to tell it when you push the clutch to change the idle speed.
It shows R/LB as power from the fuse to the switch and Pk as power out to the starter solenoid.
The green wires should be for the cruise control deactivation. When the clutch is pressed the cruise shuts off.
The manual shows LB/Y and Gy/R going to the PCM to tell it when you push the clutch to change the idle speed.
It shows R/LB as power from the fuse to the switch and Pk as power out to the starter solenoid.
#4
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