I will be doing the 2nd oil change to the 05 F150 XLT with the 5.4(the first one was done by the dealer for free, but they only put 5 qts in, I had to go back the next day after I checked it). I need to know if there is a crush washer on the oil drain plug and if so what size is it. On my 99 Mustang 4.6 the drain plug had a built in rubber o ring on the drain plug and no crush washer, not sure if this is the same or not.
Thanks

 

Got an 05 Lariat screw and bolt has a rubber seal already on it. Been doing my own oil changes too since dealer did the same thing to me, only put 5 quarts in, but I needed them to break the factory oil filter seal - thing was on way too tight... Done a few oil changes myself already and have it down to 15 minutes!

 

Hey Guys,

Want to do an oil drain and not even have to wash your hands?

Get a "Fumoto Oil Valve" to replace the factory plug. It has a little lever that opens the valve - never get a drop on my hands. They cost about $21 bucks.

Look here: http://www.lubricationspecialist.com...tml=fumoto.htm

These things are great.

CMOS

 

I wondered how those spigot-type drain plugs worked. Sounds like they're worth the money.

I've had my first 2 services done at the dealer, first one to break the dreaded oil filter seal (and to avoid warranty issues later on) and the second because it's a little too chilly up here lately (didn't feel like rotating the tires on ice). I will be doing my own changes from here on out. The dealer did 5 qts the first time, then 6 this time. It's not like I'm not paying for the oil, just put 7 in.

 

I also highly recommend doing some oil analysis when you do the changes. I've been using "Blackstone Labs" for a few years. For 20 bucks you get a full analysis. Highly recommend you do an analysis at least every other oil change while under the 3/36 warranty. This way if a problem arises on the analysis, you can take the report to the dealer.


These analysis sheets can tell you if the engine is wearing properly, if you have leaking gaskets, etc. You can also develop agood oil change interval change schedule based on the oil wear. The report will tell you if you can go linger on your oil changes. In *most* cases, you can easily go longer than 3000 miles. The analysis will take the guess work out of that.

Look here: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html

CMOS

 

I like the Fram SureDrain oil change system better than the Fumoto valves or other external valve systems. It has a dust cap and there are no exposed parts to be struck and possibly damaged. Here is a link: Fram SureDrain. It can also be found at AutoZone and Advance Auto.

 

I bought one of these, but haven't installed it yet. Good to hear someone is happy with theirs!

 

I also have the Fram, and just bought the Fumoto to replace it with at my next oil change.

Anything's better than fishin the plug out of a pan of hot oil, though!

 

Just curious, why did you not like the Fram?

 

kd...I was always biased towards the Fumoto, but postponed buying one until too late. I think it was my 10k oil change that I wanted to convert to a quick-drain system and when the time came I stopped by a local parts store hoping they sold Fumoto (doesn't happen, I found out, no local distributors). But they had the Fram, so I picked it up.

Have used it twice since installing. I don't like the small bore of the valve, the "hose cap" protective cover, and having to thread the drain hose onto the fitting to unseat the poppet. The Fumoto is 1/4 turn and done, plus it's a larger bore for faster draining. And its a quality-built unit.

I agree with your concern about external protusions out the oil pan, but the Fumoto is less than an inch, and where it's located I highly (highly) doubt that'll cause any problems.

But that's my opinion. We both agree there's a better way to drain oil, though!

 

Don,
Thanks for the response. You are right about the Fram being slower to drain. I like the hose extension because it directs the oil flow into my drain pan better without as much splatter. Let us know how the Fumoto works out for you.

 

Do these things lock to prevent the valve from accidently opening?

 

Yes, they're spring-loaded into a detent when closed. You can also put a spring-type hose clamp on if you want more assurance. And if you REALLYwant to secure it, drill a small hole in the lever and "safety wire" it closed with 0.032" SS safety wire (like we do on airplanes).

Or just stay with the OEM drain plug and not worry at all!