yep i have a 1999 F250 SD Lariat mine had a burn mark on the screen. i thought it was shot until i read somewhere that was normal. i replaced the resisters now everything works fine. i did have to go to radio shack and buy a pack of resisters for a $1 because i couldn't get one of the old ones to solder back. it beats paying ford $400 for a bad part they made. good luck
Turns out that 3 of the chips are loose and on the front of the board something fell off. It's a little black rectangle with a 400 on it. It sits just to the right lower corner of the big black square chip. Do I just solder that back on also? Or is mine junk? Also the glass fell off the display, can I glue it back on?
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Jim
99.5 F250 Lariat CC SB , 4X4, 6" Revtech Lift, 37x12.5 GoodYear's, 4" MBRP, DP Tuner, 6.0 Tranny Cooler, Foil Delete, Frieght Train Horn (for that little old lady that pulls out without looking)
i would try soldering everything back. all you can loose is 30 minutes
I tried, but to no avail. When you plug it in, the heat sink gets real hot and melts the solder off again. I found someone on ebay that fixes them and he said that mine can't be repaired.
My search is on.....
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Jim
99.5 F250 Lariat CC SB , 4X4, 6" Revtech Lift, 37x12.5 GoodYear's, 4" MBRP, DP Tuner, 6.0 Tranny Cooler, Foil Delete, Frieght Train Horn (for that little old lady that pulls out without looking)
Red, I read where a 620 chip is a 62 ohm resistor and a 680 chip is a 68 ohm. You can get these at radio shack although they will be cylindrical in shape rather than flat. They are bi-directional so no worries how you install them. I also recommend getting the 15watt soldering pen to perform this repair. check out the photo gallery by Miescha . Keep us posted.
I also bought mine at Radio Shack, and just follow the instructions above. The whole repair process only takes about 15-20 min. plus the trip to the shack.
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Gunfrk
'99 F350 Supercab dually, 4" exhaust, gauges and pod, Bully Dog 4 bank flip chip.
T-type big filter, CCV mod, 4" spools in intake Air heater delete, boost relief valve, 203* t-stat, Turbo Master Controller
Hello Everyone,
Newbie to this site but a Ford fanatic since the 70's...
I have a 2000 Excursion and I had this problem. I tried re-soldering the resistors and now when I plug it in I get a set of horizontal red lines but still nothing in the display. Should i try replacing all of the reisitors?
Thanks
Jack
Hi, it is possible that when resoldering the solder might have shorted across two resistors. Did you closely check your soldering job?
That was it. I found a small cross between two resistors. Cleaned it up and resoldered the two affected resistors. I plugged it in and still only got the red horizontal lines until I pushed the two buttons to reset. When I pushed the two buttons to reset the display came on in metric. I reset it to english and everything works perfectly now!
Thanks to everyone involved in figuring this out.
Jack
My son's F-250 Harley console was stolen, found a web site that took care of me
received the computer and console with a warranty in 2 days, alot less than ford charges Ford Parts - Full Warranty On All Ford Truck Parts
keep the faith
all the world is not bad
Thanks to Miescha for posting the fix for this. The console in my 2003 F-250 went dim and then died completely a couple months ago. I searched the forums here this morning, and pulled the console out at lunchtime. When I removed the circuit board from the inner (black) console section, one of the 68 ohm resistors actually fell out and into my hand! I soldered the resistor back onto the board, and resoldered another one, when I got home from work, and I now have a working lie-o-meter again.
It's a pity that Ford accepts such shoddy components from their suppliers, or maybe they're happy to sell the replacements. After all, mine lasted longer than the warranty...
The overhead console display in my '01 F250 began several months ago to fluctuate in intensity. Eventually, the display went out, only to reappear if I bumped the console with a knuckle.It finally went out for good. I searched the forum for the problem and found this excellent thread. The console came out easily and disassembled with no trouble, but I found nothing wrong with the chips, so it was off to the dealer.The computer said '01 owners had to buy an entire replacement console, at a cost over $300, but '02 and later owners could buy only a replacement circuit board for less than $130.The parts gal and I compared my original circuit board to an '02 replacement board and could see no visible difference, so I bought it and installed it.Works fine, and I saved more than $180...no thanks to Ford replacement info.
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