02 F250 Overhead Console Gone Out
#136
04-23-2010, 12:49 PM
Thanks for the reply on the OHC, I'm going to give it a shot. Yes, we have tried it without someone in the seat. We had the dealership trouble shoot it when it was under warranty, but of course it was working when they looked at it. My wife is barely 5ft so its a tight squeeze for me where the seat is stuck. Any quick trouble shooting ideas?? I'm pretty sure the motor is good. Can I just change out the switch? We have a place called Rusty Acres here in Jax that is a massive junkyard specific to Ford/Lincoln/Mercury. I just dont want to make the problem worse.
Later,
Dave
Later,
Dave
#137
04-25-2010, 12:32 PM
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You can try to pull the switch from the passenger side and putting it on the driver side. If it works, then the switch is bad. I will be honest though, I have not seen too many bad switches in my lifetime, usually a bad motor or loose connection. After you get the switch changed out, see if that works, if not you can do a little more diagnosing with a multimeter. Good luck Dave!
#138
05-15-2010, 10:00 AM
#139
05-15-2010, 09:41 PM
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No. Do not reuse the chip style resistors, get the actual wire style with a lead running off either side. The chip style is hard as crap to resolder, and will pop right off again soon.
To answer the question though, think of the resistor like a fuse. You don't want to solder the thing just anywhere and everywhere, as the resistor has to be the only path for current to flow through that area. Solder only on either end only.
To answer the question though, think of the resistor like a fuse. You don't want to solder the thing just anywhere and everywhere, as the resistor has to be the only path for current to flow through that area. Solder only on either end only.
#140
05-15-2010, 10:17 PM
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I might add that the wire type resistor will not generate as much heat in the circuit board which could lead to it popping off as Tennessee stated. It will not have as much surface area if any in contact with the circuit board other than the soldered ends depending on whether you choose to suspend the barrel of the resistor.
#141
05-16-2010, 10:33 AM
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#142
05-17-2010, 09:58 AM
No. Do not reuse the chip style resistors, get the actual wire style with a lead running off either side. The chip style is hard as crap to resolder, and will pop right off again soon.
To answer the question though, think of the resistor like a fuse. You don't want to solder the thing just anywhere and everywhere, as the resistor has to be the only path for current to flow through that area. Solder only on either end only.
To answer the question though, think of the resistor like a fuse. You don't want to solder the thing just anywhere and everywhere, as the resistor has to be the only path for current to flow through that area. Solder only on either end only.
#143
05-17-2010, 01:15 PM
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Some are 68 ohms, some are 62. The 680s are 68 ohm 1/4W, whereas the 620s are 62s. The 68s you will find at RadioShack, but the 62s you will need to buy from an electronics dealer. As far as soldering, you can sometimes get an associate at the electronics store or even RS to do it on their off time for you for a nominal fee, or if you have a $10 soldering iron and some solder you can do it yourself. Not too hard to do. The OEM ceramic tabs are next to impossible to solder, but the wire types you will find will be much easier.
#144
05-20-2010, 09:00 AM
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#145
05-20-2010, 03:15 PM
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#146
05-30-2010, 06:10 PM
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Just wanted to drop a line and say thanks to Miescha for the instructional on removing the message center console -been puzzling over that for a while now -and the shop manual was no help whatsoever (simply telling me to 'pull down' was pointless). Your photos are clear and instructions are easy to follow. Sure wish people with your skills would write these books!
#147
06-03-2010, 01:10 PM
Tuned
Removal of Overhead Display for 2002
i have an 02 350 crew cab diesel, my overhead display was burnt out or so i thought till i fiddled with it like suggested and its come back on but it goes back off and comes back on when it feels like it so i'd like to take it out and solder everything. i've got the front two tension clips of the overhead console released however i can not locate the two in the sun glasses compartment, can anybody show me a picture of where they are or give me any pointers? there are no screws that i can see so i imagine it's just the clips, i just can't locate them. they may be right in front of me i just don't realise it. any advice will definitly be appreciated. Thank you for your time.
#148
06-21-2010, 11:09 PM
Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck. Click on the red links for detailed photos.
First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.
Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.
Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.
Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).
Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).
Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.
Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!
Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from prior bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.
Let me know if you have additional questions and good luck!
First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.
Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.
Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.
Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).
Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).
Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chips on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.
Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!
Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from prior bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.
Let me know if you have additional questions and good luck!
#149
06-22-2010, 10:37 PM
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#150
06-22-2010, 11:01 PM
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