Thanks.
I was trying to determine the answer from the pictures on Guzzle's
website Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
But couldn't get a clear enough picture to wrap my mind around it.

We bought the extended warranty with the Excursion, so I could take it
in and get the ESOF hubs fixed under warranty, but there's a $100
deductible every time we take it in, so I'm inclined to look it over
myself in case it's something simple and obvious. Eventually I'll probably
just give up and convert it to manual hubs (Just disconnect the vacuum
lines and use the stock hubs as manual ones - unless there'd be an
advantage to putting on aftermarket manual hubs).

On my other truck with the manual hubs backing up does seem to
disengage the hubs when they get hung-up, but maybe it's just vibration
or even coincidence (It originally had the old style auto locking hubs - maybe
that has something to do with it).

Because my old truck is a one ton, I had to use the Warn premium hubs.
I prefer to use the standard hubs - the premium ones are too sturdy.

Breaking the locking mechanism on the hubs is a good thing - the hubs
act like a fuse and protect the rest of the drivetrain from overloads.

That way, if I do something like go from dirt to pavement with a wheel
spinning, the hub would strip out and save more expensive parts.
Hubs are relatively inexpensive, and are a good component to have
as a weak link in the drive train.

That, and U-Joints. The trick is getting them strong enough to work
normally, but weak enough to protect the more expensive parts.

 

Hey

I just unlocked my frozen hubs after 7 years. The auto feature stopped working. Transfer case was working so it was the hubs. I replaced the o-rings on the hubs, and the vac solenoid. Neither fixed it. I cut a 1 foot length of 2 inch PVC pipe, and made a slot that matched the width and depth of the finger bar on the hub. With some silicone lubricant on the seam, I worked it back and forth by hand, no tools, and it went to lock. Tested on some ice and I am up again. Switched it back to auto and it now works! Bring on the snow now. It sucked getting stuck in a diesel excursion 4x4.

 

I once got my old diesel suburban stuck axle deep in gumbo mud
on the shore of a lake in Alabama. Called AAA and they covered
the tow truck cost completely!

In the past I had lived on the ocean, where the wet sand is the most
firm sand to drive on. At a lake it is the opposite - the deper dry
sand is better than the wet sand because the wet sand is only a
thin crust on top of deep gumbo mud!

The towtruck driver said the first 30 feet of cable was covered by
my AAA policy - he must've used a really long measuring tape because
it came in under 30 feet even though it looked pretty far from where
I was stuck to "as close as he dared come to my truck".

Funny thing is, I never really felt irritated or mad about being stuck.
I just kept trying different things to see if I could get out, and
laughed at the whole thing. Digging, putting driftwood in front
of the tires - nothing worked, and I just got in deeper with
each attempt. At least it was a nice location, and the weather
was good.
I think we even had a picnic right there in the sand & mud (my parents
were with us visitting their grandkids).

I wish I could stay that calm more often.

 

How do you diagnose if the transfer case is engaging?
There's over 2 feet of snow here, temps dropping and the EX doesn't fit in my garage.
I have the hubs in locked position, but I'm not getting the "clunk" I used to get when I'd flip to 4x4. The dash light is coming on. I'm pretty sure the transfer case is not engaging. I can hear a slight click.

 

Drive out in the snow and mash the gas. If the rears spin and the fronts don't, the transfer case or hubs are not engaging.

Edit: I don't get a clunk when I shift to 4x4. I also don't get a light on the dash, but I don't think my truck has one, because it passes the above test (often).

 

The hubs seem to be engaging. I can turn the hub to auto and turn the axles. Move it to lock and the I can't turn the axles. I get clunk going into 4x4 Low, but no engagement, no spinning front tires. Not good.

 

I just got my F250 with manual hubs and there are no marks on the hubs so how do I know which way is locked and unlocked without driving on the road. clockwise to unlock??

 

Probably clockwise to lock. Turn them both the same way and make a sharp slow turn on dry pavement to see if you get that typical 4WD surging feel.

 

Clockwise = lock

 

I figgad out how to take the hubs apart and clean em!

 

Ok Ok guys... Nooob and A couple questions! I just got baught a 00 v10 f250 crew short bed build date 1/00. The previous owner put aftermarket manual lockin front hubs on. My ABS light has always been on and for him too... i had it checked out and inspected and its the front pass sensor. Some $500repair but am handy around vehciles.

1st question... Is it easy to replace the front hub abs sensor and do i use the stock hub assembly with sensor for like $300 or is it different?

2nd question... Do i still have to turn the auto 4x4 switch in the cab over when i lock up my hubs? I would think so for the transmission to adjust or ECU but not sure.

 

You only need to buy the sensor. It is $114 at Rockauto.com. Fairly easy to replace.

And yes, you do still need to switch the dash 4X4 control after you lock the hubs.

 

Perfect! Found everything i need! Thanks guys!

 

What everyone is forgetting and please correct me if I am wrong here is that the auto hubs are vac operated. SO there are TWO seals. I learned this while the horrid job of replacing my ball joints. I took the hubs off, and cleaned them. ALthough I did not ahve Guzzlers directions, I did the same thing. They worked freely after I did this. I then began the task of tearing apart the front end. When I got the point of removing the spindle from the axle, I learned that on the end of the axles is an axle seal. Mine was torn to bits on both sides. Its a HUGE rubber seal, that is actuall pressed on the front axle on both sides. THEN if I am remembering correctly, when re-assembling, I put the ball joints in, put the the knuckle or spindle...(big thing that holds the wheel bearing) the axle slid through the bearing, and the seal sealed the area between the axle and the bearing housing. If this seal is bad, I am not sure you will get vac to operate these hubs. Please...someone take a read and verify?? I wish I had photos.....That job was HORRIBLE. Next time Im paying a front end guy.

 

another thing to remember is the on your knuckle or what ever its called where the vac lines go in, mine are forever cracking. THe hole behind the nipple these vac lines attatch too is MICROSCOPIC. litterally. You can barely put a paperclip through it, and it gets full of stuff. There is a TSB to drill this hole out a little bit bigger. dont go so big and destroy the threads this nipple screws into or your screwed! this will allow for it to suck more vac...