Converting to power brakes: 2wd and 4x4
This is a fairly easy conversion, and a good step towards better braking. First, locate a donor truck, as the booster has a core charge and some parts are hard to find. From this truck, you will need the master cylinder, booster, booster mount brackets, pedal assembly, and vacuum tree or vacuum carb spacer if you don't have a large vacuum source on your engine. You will also need a length of vacuum hose, carburetor spacer gaskets (if user vacuum spacer), and two 3' lengths of 3/16" brake line. If the master cylinder or booster are at all questionable, take the assembled master cylinder and booster to your favorite parts store, and exchange for a rebuilt unit. These run in the $90 range, the core is typically from $20-40. Be sure to bench bleed this assembly before installing, as it sits at an upward angle, and can trap air for that wonderful spongy pedal experience.
Now for the install- Remove your stock pedal assembly and install the donor unit. Find a vacuum plug in the intake of your truck, remove it, and install the vacuum tree. Napa sells adaptors if the hole and tree are different sizes. For a vacuum spacer, remove the carb and studs, install longer studs, put spacer on with new gaskets above and below, and re-install carb. This is a good time to rebuild the carb if needed. Shim throttle linkage if needed to prevent binding. Remove your old manual master cylinder. If the booster has bolt-on mounts, bolt them onto the cowl first, then bolt the booster to them. If the mounts are welded, bolt the assembly to the cowl. Align the hole in the booster pushrod with the hole in the brake pedal arm, and bolt them together. Make new steel brake lines from the master to the switch valve on the frame from 3' pieces of 3/16" brake line. It is best to have at least two loops in each line, these can be made by wrapping the line around a piece of 3" PVC pipe. Be sure not to kink the line. Install these lines, and bleed the brake system. Install the vacuum line, start the engine, and check for leaks. If it all checks out, and the pedal feels decent, enjoy your better braking!
FEmtnmax, qman, and others contributed to this answer.
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Jared
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tadao Ando
"If you give people nothingness, they can ponder what can be achieved from that nothingness."
Different years:
There were subtle changes to this body style over the years, many hard to notice, but some are important. The first place to start is the nose. 67-69 had a bright aluminum grill available, but most of the 68 and early 69 trucks have a white painted steel grill. This was a one-piece stamping, with seperate headlight surrounds, and integrated turn signals that face the front only. Ranger models have a grill similar to the polished aluminum, with a red stripe and Ranger emblem. The front running lights from 67-69 only work when the switch is in the parking light position. When the headlights are on, the park lights are off. The 70-72 models have a three-piece grill setup, with a polished aluminum surround and headlight surrounds, and chromed plastic inserts. 70 models have 42 holes per insert, the 71 models have six, and the 72 models have four. These trucks also have the turn signals mounted below the grill, on the front valance, with a wrap-around lens. These running lights stay on with the headlights. On the hood and fenders, there are some badging differences. The 67 models have a plain hood side emblem, while later models have a yellow reflector in the emblem. Any extra package logos tended to drift around from year to year, between the lower edge of the fenders and the cowl side. There were three different style mirrors offered, the first was the low-mount "car" style, usually on the driver's side only. The second was the Junior West Coast style, with a single arm from the top of the door to below the window. The third style was the west coast, camper special, or fold out style mirrors. These have a larger mirror and arm than the juniors, with an additional support brace to the front of the door.
Inside the cab, the 67 model has pull knobs for the heat controls, and a small opening for the radio. Later models have a heater control panel with slide knobs, and a larger radio opening. Depending on the trim package, the instrument cluster may or may not have a bar across the middle of a plastic surround, just below the speedometer, or an open-style cluster, with a painted aluminum surround. Both versions were available with gauges or lights. Higher trim levels had a large cast aluminum horn ring, while lower levels had just a horn button. The seats could be either plain vinyl or woven vinyl, and the interior colors were usually keyed to the color of the truck. 67 models have door handles with integrated locks and seperate armrests, while later models have seperate pop up door locks, and the door handle is in the arm rest. The whole door assembly is interchangeable. Towards the rear of the truck, 70 and later models have a marker light on the side of the rear bed post, along the trim line. At the rear, all 68 and later models have an additional reflector mounted below the taillight assemblies.
I could really use some linked photos for this one, if anybody has them.
__________________
Jared
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tadao Ando
"If you give people nothingness, they can ponder what can be achieved from that nothingness."
2wd:
The easiest way to get disk brakes is to use a 73-79 donor truck. Take the I-beams and spindles, and the proportioning valve. It is best to have new kingpins installed along with new pivot bushings, to prevent any problems down the road. You will also need rotors, calipers, and brake hoses for the year of the donor truck.
Jack the front of the truck up and support the frame on jackstands. Remove the tires, tie rod ends, brake hoses, radius arm bolts, shocks, and pivot bolts in that order. You probably will need to pry the end of the I-beam out of the frame, they tend to stick a bit. The install of the new parts is the reverse of the removal. To install the new proportioning valve, simply remove the brake lines from the old unit, unplug it, unbolt from the frame, then bolt the new one on and hook it up. The brake lines may be rusted to the nuts, so you probably should replace them at this time also.
An alternative method is listed here in the articles. http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...rd_Trucks.html
For 4x4 trucks, there are a few different ways to go. For F-100 trucks, you can use GM D44 outers, rotors, and calipers.
I need more info for the F-250 and F-350 trucks, please PM me any info you may have on this.
__________________
Jared
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tadao Ando
"If you give people nothingness, they can ponder what can be achieved from that nothingness."
Moderators please do not add nor subtract from this stickie at all, if you need to..... Contact me. No replies at all.
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