C6 slams/clunks into reverse/forward
#1
C6 slams/clunks into reverse/forward
When i put it in reverse w/brake on the truck lunges back and makes a load clunk sound, same as putting it in Drive. I was told i needed to set my backlash...???
What is backlash?
And what do i to set it?
Could it be the T-Case?
Any other thoughts on what it might be?
C6/Np205 Divorced.
What is backlash?
And what do i to set it?
Could it be the T-Case?
Any other thoughts on what it might be?
C6/Np205 Divorced.
#7
Originally Posted by bob arrington
loose chain , bob
Last edited by ivanribic; 12-19-2005 at 02:56 PM.
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#9
Your rear ring and pinion my be going out, my 76 Highboy's rear Dana60 did the same thing when I bought it, and the rear end lasted 2 months before the ring and pinion came apart and locked the rear end up. I'd suggest rebuilding the rear differential before it causes any more problems to the rear end.
#10
If you do some searching in this forum you'll find info on rebuilding the rear end but it's a job that a lot of people prefer to take to a shop. If you do it yourself you'll need a dial indicator, dial calipers, an inch/lb torque wrench, a shim pack for the D60, and a little patience. You'll also need to remove the bearings from the carrier to change shims. There's a special tool that allow you to remove the bearings in tact but it's a lot of $$, a cheap one will pull them but destroy them, in which case you'll want a rebuild kit with bearings and shims. You'll also want to pull the cover and inspect the ring gear for wear. Too much backlash can wear the gears badly and it may need to be replaced.
Okay, all that being said, call around and check with local shops on what they charge for a job like this. A lot of times, by the time you buy the tools to do it, you're not a whole lot ahead to mess with it if you're only doing one axle. If the ring gear is okay I would imagine labor on a job like this will run you about $250-$300. You might also have a shop check your backlash to make sure that's the problem or you can check it yourself if you have a dial indicator.
Btw, my D60 rear that I pulled out of the truck had the same problem. I don't know how or why it happens. Backlash on those axles should be within a few thousandths (.005-.010 if I remember right, in that neighborhood anyway) but they seem to open up over time and get a lot of slop in there.
Okay, all that being said, call around and check with local shops on what they charge for a job like this. A lot of times, by the time you buy the tools to do it, you're not a whole lot ahead to mess with it if you're only doing one axle. If the ring gear is okay I would imagine labor on a job like this will run you about $250-$300. You might also have a shop check your backlash to make sure that's the problem or you can check it yourself if you have a dial indicator.
Btw, my D60 rear that I pulled out of the truck had the same problem. I don't know how or why it happens. Backlash on those axles should be within a few thousandths (.005-.010 if I remember right, in that neighborhood anyway) but they seem to open up over time and get a lot of slop in there.
#11
#12
#13
I know this is a older post. But thanks for sharing that test procedure to diagnose the rear end. My 89 F150 is thunking pretty good. u Joints looked fine.
Did the chock the wheels in neutral test. I have about a 1/3rd of a inch of slop in the rear end.
Time to shop for a used rear end.
Any ideas what year ranges fit? its a 4wd.
Did the chock the wheels in neutral test. I have about a 1/3rd of a inch of slop in the rear end.
Time to shop for a used rear end.
Any ideas what year ranges fit? its a 4wd.
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xtal_01
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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