Bought new 4160 Holley Carb. Electric choke. Where would be a good place to place the positive lead? I can get it to open but not close. Is an Electric choke based on timing from the power, or from engine heat from the base? How does it work for sure? Also is running around 4k rpm. Is this a curb idle adjust or throttle adjust? Guess this site has changed, because I can't find the Carb and Fuel Inj Forum! Hope this is the right 1!!!!!!

Chris

 

the choke doesn't close??????? it only shuts when you set the fast idle. you need to run the positive wire to the stator terminal on the alternator. and negative to body ground. your curb idle is the big screw behind the linkage on the right side.

 

Which is the starter term on the alt? Have ground i place

Thanks

 

Can I use the soloniod? on the fender well? Rear side

 

First off the electric choke has a heater and the reason to use the stator terminal is that terminal is hot, only when the truck is running, not when the key is on. The choke opens slowly as the heater warms up and opens the choke. As long as the engine is warm the choke stays open. Curb idle (engine warm, choke off, that's the valve open) is adjusted on the LEFT side (that's the drivers side) in between the linkage for the primaries and secondaries. Fast Idle (engine cold, choke on, that's the valve closed) adjust is on the right side (passenger) under the choke linkage. I haven't a clue as to what "throttle adjust" is. The only ones you should need to touch are the idle mixtures and curb idle and then not much. No, you can't use the solenoid anywhere. The other place to use is the battery terminal on the coil, but that's not 12 volts when the engine is running and will open the choke too slowly. You need to find a place that only has 12 volts with the key on and preferably only when the engine is running, hence the stator terminal on the altenator.

 

The stator terminal that Ford used years ago has a normal output between 6.95 and 7.04 volts which is too low for the 12 volt choke heater. Ford in the past must of used a lower voltage heater. Get power off the fuse block that is only hot when the ignitions on. A Holley made thermister part # 45-267 will vary in resistance which will help slow down the choke opening with a cold motor as the choke will open long before the motor warms up. It will take a few cold starts before you get the amount of choke and fast idle adjusted to your motor, don't give up. With the ignition on and the motor not running you'll risk burning out the heater element as the carb draws air thru the heater when the motors running. Another bad feature is with a cold motor and you leave the ignition on like 30 seconds or longer the choke will open, come off the fast idle cam and not idle in drive.
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Beemer Nut is right your best bet is right go to key on only, make sure it doesn't power up in accesory. When Ford used the stator terminal the cap was calibrated to work on that voltage. If you want to protect the cap with ign. on and not running add a two terminal, non grounded, oil pressure switch which closes with pressure, into the cirquit. That will power up the cap only with engine running. Kind of overkill since you'll be burning the points while saving the cap.

Thanks for the number on the resistor Beemer Nut, didn't know about that one.

 

Good idea of the the oil pressure switch.

 

oldeiron, with a quick hot/cold test I came up with 0.6 ohms at 210 F and 29.6 ohms at 21 F. Grab your wallet as it lists $56.84 I paid $39.87 out the door. I cut down the choke cam steps to allow for app 50 rpm's per step so fast idle at 40 F on start up i'm at 800 with small reductions to 575 hot.
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