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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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  #1  
Old 11-30-2005, 11:12 PM
Jackford Jackford is offline
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1971 F250 Fuel Pump issue

Today I noticed a few drops of gas dripping from just below the top of my fuel pump. There looks to be some type of joint or seam in the housing above where the fuel lines enter and exit the pump. It is from this seam that I spotted the leak.

What is the best way to repair this leak. It leaked only for a minute or two and then stopped. Should I replace the fuel pump or is it some type of seal that needs reparing.

Also what steps should I follow to remove the pump. Should I remove any thing else to get to the fule pump. How do you recomend I plug the fuel line once it has been removed, do I need to replace any gaskets, should I remove the bottom radiator hose, etc?

As you can guess I am learning as I go and any suggestions would be appriciated.
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Old 11-30-2005, 11:15 PM
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sounds like you need to tighten the couplers. a new pump is $35. easy change if you have to.
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Old 11-30-2005, 11:18 PM
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Replace it quickly. The fuel pump can be open to the crankcase. You don't want your oil getting diluted by gasoline.
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Old 12-01-2005, 11:38 AM
qman qman is offline
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Sprocket, my fuel pump was only $18 at AZ. Why would you have had to pay $35? Is the F250 different from the F100 eventhough they probably have the same engines?
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Old 12-01-2005, 01:31 PM
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The F250 and F100 both have a FE block, and the fuel pump will interchange.
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Old 12-01-2005, 02:29 PM
ramtoo ramtoo is offline
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I just went to electric pump from A/Z $45.00 for a 5.5 to 9 pound pump, tried a $30.00 electric from pep boys 1.5 to 4 pounds and it would not fill up my clear fuel filter.
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Old 12-01-2005, 02:37 PM
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When you change the pump with a OEM pump, 1 thing to do that will help is to roll the engine to release the cam off the pump arm, this will make reinstalling the pump a little ez'er. Also a 9/16" - 3/8" drive swivel socket works the best for removal of the two bolts.
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Old 12-01-2005, 02:43 PM
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i suggest using the pump that has its own filter built in. they run 18.00. unhook both fuel lines and crank the engine over to TDC unbolt the 2 fuel pump bolts and pull out. scrape the old gasket off and install the new gasket and fuel pump. tighten bolts to 20ft pounds. then hook up the fuel lines. while you are down there i really recommend you replace the old fuel hoses.
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Old 12-01-2005, 04:30 PM
ramtoo ramtoo is offline
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If you use the built in fuel filter, unscrew the filter at the parts store first if they can't unscrew get a different one ! When you reinstall apply anti seize so you can replace filter. My old pump after I took it off I put in a vise and the base turned in the body and I could not get the filter off. After using 2 big pipe wrenches I got the filter can off! You would not believe the crud in the filter and this was a new looking pump.
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:09 AM
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Tdc

Thanks for the feed back guys.

Sounds like I can leave the lower raditor hose attached and just reach the two bolts from crawling under the truck. I will check at the parts store that the filter come off the pump. I will also see what it take to replace the fuel line as well. Thanks again for the imput.

Follow up questing is how do I know if the motor is at TDC?
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:11 AM
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look on the balancer for TDC. the fuel filter requires a wrench to unscrew it.
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:56 PM
Rubiranch Rubiranch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramtoo
I just went to electric pump from A/Z $45.00 for a 5.5 to 9 pound pump, tried a $30.00 electric from pep boys 1.5 to 4 pounds and it would not fill up my clear fuel filter.
Its normal for a fuel filter not to be filled with "liquid" fuel. The needle and seat in your carburetor will normally only hold back 4 1/2 pounds of fuel pressure. Having 5.5 to 9 pounds of fuel pressure will raise the "fuel-level" in your float bowl and cause the air/fuel mixture to be too rich

As you drive and the fuel sloshes around in the float bowl, when the fuel-level drops low and releases some pressure on the needle and seat, the high fuel pressure forces extra fuel past the needle and raises the fuel level.

It might be a good idea to install a fuel pressure regulator and set it to 5 psi.

Just an idea.

Last edited by Rubiranch; 12-03-2005 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 12-05-2005, 11:32 PM
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f/p

im goin through that right now.i have a 360 and i got a fuel pump from a independent parts house.yeah,i just looked at it and put it back in the box.but looking at it at home,the cannister is on there tight.i mean so tight that the biggest channelocks couldnt break it loose -i have no vise.so i will take it back tomorrow and get them to loosen it.they have a shop.and i will have to get another "o" ring.speaking of-this young guy at az didnt know what a "o" ring was.
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2005, 11:53 PM
Jackford Jackford is offline
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Purchased my fuel pump!

I am waiting for a convenient weekend to install it. It cost me 23 bucks at Kragen Auto Parts.

I was under my 1971 f250 looking around and things are starting to make sense. I was able to move the crank shaft to TDC (or what I think is TDC). I used a socket and ratchet to pull the line on the balancer close to the marker above the balancer wheel.

I also noticed that to replace the fuel line I will only need about > 2' of hose as the majority of the fuel line is metal.

My questions are 1.) What size of fuel line do I purchase and 2.) I want a service manual for my truck. Which manual do I purchase and where do I get it?
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Old 12-06-2005, 12:05 AM
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Usually 3/8 fuel line does it.
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Old 12-06-2005, 12:05 AM
 
 
 
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