I finally got my list done for what I think I need to rebuild my 300. Here's what I got so far. Let me know if im forgetting anything. I plan on having the machine work done by livernois motorsports. www.livernoismotorsports.com

So far I have:
1. Walker downpipe 45166
2. Offenhauser Dual Port intake 6019
3. EFI exhaust manifolds.

Need still:
1. Comp cams kit K66-237-4 (includes camshaft, lifters, valve springs, retainers,locks, valve stem seals, and timing set)
2. Holley 390 carb. 8007
3. ARP rod bolts. 152-6001
4. Water pump
5. Fuel pump
6. Cylinder head bolts
7. Main bolts
8. Distributor
9. Master rebuild kit from Northern auto parts includes:
Moly rings
Fel pro gasket kit KS2330
Federal Mogul rod bearings
Federal Mogul main bearings
Federal Mogul Hyperutectic pistons H519P
Pioneer Steel Block Plugs # PE107R
Federal Mogual cam bearings 1450M
Melling oil pump M-74
10.Comp cams high energy pushrods 7866-12
11. Rocker arms

All of these parts are the ones I plan on replacing. I don't plan on ordering alot of this stuff until I know what kind of machine work needs to be done on my 300,000 plus mile engine. Some of the parts I will buy at my local parts store. Did I forget anything? Or anything I should change? Thanks

 

Oil pump pick up tube and screen.
Harmonic Balancer.
P/S pump?
Resurface flywheel
Clutch & pressure plate
Starter
Radiator flush
Hoses, belts, wires, and all the other annoying stuff that you always have to go back to the auto parts store for.

 

Thermostat & Gasket

 

1982

Look through what was done to mine to see if there's anything you like better than what you've listed.

300 H.P. @ 4600 rpm & 400 Torque @ 3200 rpm w/ a 10 to 1 C.R.
It idels @ 675 & is smooth as glass, a quarter was placed on top of the Valve Cover & it Did Not move Nor rattle @ least on the stand anyway.

Ross Pistons 4.060
Hastings Power Flex Rings .060
Federal Mogul Mains .020 Under
Clevite Performance Bearings Std.
Federal Mogul Cam Bearings Std.
Melling Torque Cam
Melling H.V. Oli Pump
Eagle H-beam Rods 6.300 2.100 Rod Journal
Crane Gold Race Roller rockers
ARP Main Stud Kit, Rocker Studs,
Fisher International Ballancer
Bore 4.060
Power Hone 4.060
Full P&P Intake & Exhaust
Performance valve job
Performance Balance job on Steele Crank w/ in 7 grams
Grind Rod Journals to 2.100
Plumb Intake for Heat via Water Pump
Deck Block to Square
Align hone to Factory specs
Deck block for Zero Deck
Offenhauser C Intake (thinking of going to a D/P)
Holley 1850 600 CFM
S.S. Borla 2 into 2 Header
8' of 3" tubes attached to Flowmaster 40's
4 Core Desert Radiator mated w/ the Original Radiator Housing
2 1,200 CPU Electric Fans, on @ 180*, off @ 170* mounted diaginally
MSD 6A Eclectronics Package & Coil
D.S. II Electronic Ignition

 

Why replace the cylinder head bolts? I think your list looks good. I am about to rebuild my 300 also.

 

Do I need a new Harmonic Balancer or could i just reuse the old one? For the oil pick up tube and screen would a good cleaning work or should I get a new one. Everything else there is still good on the truck. Thanks for the help

 

As for replacing the head bolts I figure the rod, main, and head bolts have the most stress on them. Being they are 23 years old I figured some new ones might be necessory or no?

Thanks Col Flashman for the list. I've followed your build for a while now. I was the first to post back when you started this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...light=flashman

Thanks again guys

 

I would replace the balancer on something that old. They do wear out over time and lose the ability to dampen engine vibrations like they should. They may even start to "slip" as they wear.

It is a very good idea to replace the cylinder head bolts. Hardware is not something I would skimp on when rebuilding an engine. I like to think of it as cheap insurance. You could lose a lot of money having your head redone if an old cylinder head bolt lets loose. Especially if your running higher cylinder pressures.