It is a supercab XL 4X4 5 speed with 230,000 kms (about 143,750 miles) and a second owner truck. Seems reasonably clean and no rust. Taking it out for a test drive Sunday to see what it is like and need some ideas as what to look for other then the normal items.

 

Got this from a web site you'll want to become familiar with if you buy a Ford diesel truck. The link is as follows:

http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_import/pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index3.html

Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

 

Wow, thanks for all this detail. Didn`t expect an answer so quick, lots of items to check.

 

Didn`t turn out too good, seems like it has way more miles or has been used very hard. Leak in the front engine seal, transmission, rear end noise and no syncros left in the trans. That was just for a start plus the engine oil was down about 4/5 quarts. Time to run not walk away! Too bad, the price seemed great at first.

 

That's too bad. These engines can take a substantial amount of abuse and keep on keeping on, but the tranny and rear end would get pricey in a hurry.

 

Looks like I would need to spend more and get a P/S that was well maintained and cared for. Hard/expensive to bring back a vehicle that has been neglected to death. It did seem like it had far more than the miles that were showing.

 

Hey Fomoko, good to see you on the diesel side. I was just looking an a '94 with more miles than that and it didn't check out that poorly, but what can you do. Keep looking. They're worth it. You're close enough, it may be worth a quick trip to Edmonton. I know it's still "a few" hours away, but there's a lot better selection out there and the prices are better because everyones got one. Let us know how things turn out.

 

if that dual mass flywheel is getting bad it will sound like your shaking a coffee can with rocks in it when you shut it down. the southbend clutches are a great replacement for thoose clutches and much better priced than the stocker.

 

Hi Fullcrew7.3, I have been on the diesel side for about 15/20 years. Mostly Ford LN 8000 trucks with an L 9000 for good measure. I had a 89 F350/7.3 for afew years and now am looking for another " little " Ford diesel. I will wait till at least spring and Edmonton/Calgary sounds like the place. Just the hassle of certifying an out of province vehicle but if the price and selection is good then I can make it work. All I know is that it will be a Ford!

 

Good to here! I work at a mostly Chebby dominated workplace and it sucks.
Would have never guessed you were a diesel guy from your signature, but hey I think I've been wrong once or twice before. At least that's what my wife tells me!

 

Hi Fullcrew7.3, I use these Ford diesels in my Bobcat bussiness. It sucks to be around Chebby guys, you have to feel sorry for them once in a while.

 

You're not kidding. This is the second time in as many weeks that my Geo has beendown for repairs. Shoulda bought a Ford. Good luck on your truck hunt.

 

Hi All,

Hey, don't give up, there are a lot of good used PSD 7.3's out there. It took me 2 1/2 years to find the right one. I almost fainted when I got mine. It was a 1997 F-250 H.D. 7.3 It was a one owner truck, the couple were in there 70's, and decided to buy a new truck. Any way, this one had been garaged since new, just turned 100,090 miles, this guy had every reciept from mantenence, I even checked with the dealer where it was serviced. My brother has been a Ford Mech. for 30 years. Said he has never seen a used 9 year old PSD so clean, and so well taken care of. I feel blessed, I fianally got a PSD, and in perfect condition. It looks almost brand new, it has been taken care of so well. All the oil changes where done at 3,000 miles, and the transmission was serviced as required by Ford. They also had a 5th wheel trailer, and never towed it more than 10,000 miles. It was worth the wait, and got it for $11,000. They are out there, just keep looking, but don't concider a truck without a good mantenence record, and make them prove it, and follow up and check it out. I'm one very, very, very happy PSD owner