My name's David, a mechanical engineer and new owner of a 2000 XLT 7.3 dually with 73,000 miles.

My available fuel is 40 cetane and the best price is at Hess and Valero.

The only work its received is new knuckle ball joints. I have a list of questions and would appreciate the help.

When the brakes are applied the truck pulls lightly to the left. I'll get around to checking the calipers and pads.

I believe the engine experiences fuel cackle. The rattle is louder when cold and then quiets a bit, but it sound like the wav. file I downloaded.

when the brakes are applied really hard the pedal pushes back and pulsates. Wierd sensation.

What additives do you like best IYO;

Stanadyne
LDL

any other you've found and liked


I'd like to get these things fixed up then apply some performance;

gauges (or gauges as a kit with a chip?)
new intake air cleaner - easier breathing
new hump pipe off turbo (is it a good idea if going for new pipe from cat back?)
cat back muffler and pipe

I like the "sleeper" exhaust systems. Those that don't wake the neighbors, IYKWIM. I don't want the drone of the exhaust at highway speeds, but want the engine to breate easier.

chip (do you like one power setting or a chip with several levels)

What chip manufactures have great customer service with techs or salespeople that speak clear english and offer solution, not bull poop.

other than the list above - if there are any things I've missed feel free to let me know.

Happy clattering.

David

 

Welcome to FTE. This is one place you will visit often. Lots of great information and advice.

The brake problem sounds like warped rotors, and a stuck caliper piston or the caliper guides need lubrication. If the steering wheel pulls when the brakes are applied check the front. If the truck wants to drift to the left the rear may be the problem. Tire pressure and wheel alignment can also cause brake pull. As for a fuel additive, I'm currently using Lube Control's FP60. Prior to that it was Stanadyne Performance Formula. Happy with both. The most noticable improvement is they seem to reduce engine noise, but they also clean and lubricate the fuel system. Stanadyne will also raise the cetane level in fuel. It's my understanding the PSD is designed to operate with fuel that has a cetane rating of 45 or better. With a cetane rating of 40 you might want to use Stanadyne or Power Service.

 

Hello David, welcome to FTE. youll quickly find that the users here are the best around.

your rotors are probably warped. that is why you feel the wierd pulsing sensation. if money is cheap (which it doesnt look like it), i would just get the rotors machined smooth (fronts) and then get new pads. or if you feel like spending some, get some Powerslot rotors.

fuel additives- i hear alot of good comments about DieselKleen and Powerservice. I currently do not run an additive, but i plan on doing so soon. today's diesel fuels are somewhat "dry" in terms of lubrication, so an additive will make the fuel more lubed, which is good for the oil. i would also switch to synthetic oil in the engine. Mobil1 and Shell Rotella are great oils.

now to the gauges- there are many site sponsors, and i encourage you to purchase from them. Two that i have used in the past repeatedly are www.blackcloudiesel.com and www.dieselperformanceparts.com ... both can give you a great deal, and they will work on prices if you prove to them that they are higher than someone else. i have personally dealt with Garrett from BlackCloudDiesel many times. go to the sites, and they will have gauge packages, about $350 including three gauges, and a color-matched A-pillar mount. the standard three gauges are boost pressure, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) and if you have an automatic transmission, Transmission Fluid Temp.

Exhaust- you will find with many systems, that the exhaust note is actually quieter than stock or just as quiet when at low rpm's. when you get above 2000 or so, the exhaust really differs in sound. i would recommend MBRP exhaust. Their systems for the 7.3's are "turbo-back", usually a 4'' system from the outlet of the turbo back to your (5'') tip. they sell single or dual outlet, (both sides), aluminized steel or stainless steel. the cheapest (single, aluminized), is right around $350. the most expensive ("cool duals", T-304 stainless), runs about $1250. its all in what you want. they include a "straight-through" muffler, which helps deaden sound some, without restricting flow. the system brings out an awesome flutter at idle and just above idle. the turbo will spool alot faster, it is noticeable from the tailpipe. with the muffler positioned the way i have it (it is bi-directional), it actually quiets the sound 1/2dB at highway speeds.

intake- one of the simplest ways to get more airflow with good filtration is what we call a "kwik" filter. it is a napa part number 6637, or a www.fleetfilter.com (only $18 there) part number 46637. it is VERY inexpensive, and it will last a long time. it is HUGE, about 10'' diameter and 14'' long. i have one, you can see pics of it in my gallery. just scroll over my name at the top of this post. all you have to do is remove the stock airbox, and then slip this filter (tight fit) under the intake boot. it fits perfectly, no problems. alot of guys around here have it, and one more came today in the mail, it is for our 95 powerstroke.

power adder- alot of guys will chime in on this subject. tuners are devices where you plug it into a port under the dash, it loads the stock program on the tuner, and you load a set HP level on the truck. you can also change transmission settings, how firm it shifts. a chip is something you put on the back of the PCM, that alters the signal sent to the PCM, and it adds oil pressure to the injectors, which adds fuel, which adds power. a fueling box, such as the Edge Juice with attitude monitor is something you install on the truck, and leave it there. the good thing about the edge, is that it is really safe. you can set your maximum desired EGT and boost levels. once the engine exceeds these, it automatically defuels the engine to maintain safe levels. there is also a nice digital screen inside the cab, that reads EGT, boost, engine RPM, and % backdown. i have this, and love it. however, this or a chip does nothing to modify the performance of the transmission.

one thing i would recommend for ANY transmission is the Sonnax valve and Tricumulator springs. this $50 mod firms up the transmission some. it gets rid of the "spongy" feeling of the stock torque converter. it makes the shifts more precise and decisive. i have it, and love it.

if you have any more questions, just ask.

 

Wow I was all set to answer - but it looks like Strokin_it7.3 has plenty of time on his hands today

 

just like every other day....

 

WOW! thanks for the help - Forgot to say the tranny is manual - awesome power from third through OD - I have an Isuzu rodeo 3.2 liter(made in Kentucky) with the all aluminum v-6 which accelerated nicely but I think from 50-90 the 350 would pull it off.

I really appreciate the input - that's a lot of typing. I'll check in soon once I get a feel for all the clitter clatter. Then we'll try some fuel substitutes, get the brakes in order, and dive into performance.

Any quick fixes for the fuel cackle - is this something a good Powerstroke mechanic could hear and offer a solution to? I doubt just adding a fuel additive would be the 100% solution.

Thanks again for all the help to a newbie sparkless dude.

 

Are the pipes through the bed and adjacent to the rear window? If so a picture would be nice - I'd like to make a set of SS pipes with shapely heat shields grabbin the pipes but installed in the bed.

Any pitures of vertical pipes would be cool.

TY David

 

From the little bit of reading - today's fuels have less Sulfer, which is a chief lubrication function of these fuels. Wondering how the very clean burning Euro's are doing it on low sulfer fuels.......

 

tranny is 6 speed -

axles are 4.11 stock -

Any formulae for calculating fuel saving for switching to 3.50?

I got a quote from a local mechanic for +/- 1700 for both ends (4X4) to have the ring and piniuons changed and bearings replaced too.

fuel is 2.85 right now and I can figure out the payback if someone knows the aproximate ration or relationship.

Or we'll have to get technical and calcuate wheel revolution or RPM and work it out the long way. Was hoping someone else put the grey matter to paper.

- David

 

Getting rid of the Q/D connectors on the suction side of the fuel pump is a good starting point. For some that's the only fuel fix neccessary. Others go full bore and drop the tank to eliminate the mixing valve and re-reoute the return line. If it still doesn't run right after that the dead head fuel delivery system can be retro engineered to a full flow return system. That almost always cures the cackle.

 

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-...ng/mph-rpm.htm

has all the math equations to calculate effective gear ratios for changes in gearing, rpm, etc.

 

Welcome to the forum.
Changing gear ratios needs to be given more thought than just looking for good mileage. What are your plans for the truck. Mostly hauling stuff in the bed or carrying a camper? Then the gear switch is good.
If you are planning on towing a 5th wheel then you are better off keeping the 4.10s. If you gear it tall with that heavy of a load you'll lose mileage because the motor is working too hard to overcome the tall gears.

 

Thanks for the reply - I use the truck as my daily driver, with about 500 lbs in the back - Dog crate, training equipment and a layer of 3/4" plywood with 5' full extension drawers.

Is changing the tire size (taller tires) a reasonable method to decrease final ratio or should I invest in the ring and pinions?

For now a 26 foot trailer is all I got. It should last a while unless my neighbor gets tired of his 32' 5th wheel sitting on the side of the house unused.

TY DVW

 

I'm looking for the .wav file you mentioned. Where is it? I'd be interested in downloading it and listen.....

Thanks!

 

Not from a milage standpoint. The extra weight and rolling resistance of oversized tires will negate any milage benifits that come from the reduced drive ratio. A taller tire that isn't any wider than stock might help...something like a 235/85R-16, but to me the super skinny tires are just funny looking.