painting truck with spray cans
#16
#17
Jason, thinned 20%. I have a paint stick that is used with different paints to measure quantities. I poured paint into a mixing container up to a given line on the paint stick, then used another line on the stick that indicated 20% of the paint. I don't know if that makes sense, but the paint sticks are available from paint supply stores. "What is tremclad?" Tremclad is a brand name for a rust paint, I think Rustoleum, Rust Coat and Tremclad are the current big ones. No hardener necessary, just spray and let dry. Only drawback is it takes a day or two to really dry. That is why I used the electric spray gun, cheap and only has to look good from 20 feet, plus with the rust paint, it's super easy to fix those scratches from off-roading. I figure a half-gallon of paint once every year or so is worth it.
#18
you could use an epoxy primer timothy, comes in a few different colors and stick with the same brand you should be able to intermix them to get even more colors. 2 quarts mixed should be enough to get a good coat on a truck. Epoxy primer seals the surface unlike urethane and lacquer primer which are porous. Its may have a slight sheen. It may chalk over time being exposed to uv. Another nice thing about epoxy is it can be scuffed up later and any bodywork done right on top of it. And if you decided to paint, it could be scuffed and another coat of epoxy or primer put on before paint. Many people paint with only epoxy primer for a topcoat, like a lot of rat rods.
#20
I'd say you need about 2 quarts mixed to spray a full size truck, but a quart size is the smallest you'll be able to buy it in. A cheaper line probably about 30 bucks a quart with the hardener. PPG omni brand is one I've been using, but believe it only comes in a medium grey color. The omni brand mixes 2:1 so if you buy 2 quarts of primer, when mixed with the harderner will give 3 quarts mixed, more then enough. May want to check other brands for different colors. PPG has dplf epoxy in one of thier higher lines which comes in colors like black, white, grey green, red oxide, but it will be a bit more cost. I've heard good things about southern polyurethanes products, and believe they have it in black, and thier prices are suppose to be pretty reasonable. They are based out of Georgia. I post on hotrodders.com and barry K on there is the owner I believe and you could ask him more about it. Maybe they have a supplier in your area. I've never used any of thier products yet, but people talk it up on that site. Or here is thier site
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm
Like I said I haven't used any of thier stuff, but I believe thier epoxy may spray with a little bit more gloss then most.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm
Like I said I haven't used any of thier stuff, but I believe thier epoxy may spray with a little bit more gloss then most.
#21
That equipment paint I was talking about earlier can be flattened if you don't want a gloss. Plus, it won't chalk out like a primer will and it will last a lot longer. If you want to go over it in the future it will be a hundred times better than any spray can product you put on and you won't have to strip it off if you use a catalyst. Plus, it can go over bare metal. Oh, and it comes in any color.
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#26
Actually, I don't think you can paint the catalyzed enamel equipment paint I was talking about over the rustoleum, even if you scratch it with sandpaper. Its not that the stuff won't stick the the rustoleum, its that it will probably react and wrinkle the rustoleum as soon as you spray it on. The true way to test if you can put any product over a different product is to take an automotive grade thinner and pour it on a rag, and then hold it on an inconspicuous spot on the vehicle. If after about ten seconds or so you feel the paint and it feels soft like rubber, you most likely will have a bad reaction if you paint over it. If you feel it after ten seconds and it feels as hard as before you put the rag on it, you will almost always be okay. Rustoleum is usually an uncatalyzed enamel. If you try to put the equipment paint most automotive stores sell (ours is a catalyzed urethane enamel) over the top of spray can rustoleum it will almost always wrinkle it. I'd try the rag test before you do anything. That will tell you really quick if you're going to have a problem. Just make sure to get an automotive grade thinner, not house paint thinner.
#27
Good point. Even rustoleum's products will do that with each other. I recently painted a set of wheels using their Hammered paint. I followed the directions, and then put them in my attic for about 3 weeks to bake before clearcoating. Hammered is different than regular. It sprays weird and dries funny. Anyway, I got a few wrinkles when the clear was applied. In all, I wouldn't recommend rustoleum clear over their paint. It just does strange stuff.
#28