Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks




 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 01:02 PM
Katmandu's Avatar
Katmandu Katmandu is offline
Elder User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Troy,Ohio
Posts: 538
Katmandu is starting off with a positive reputation.
Question 89 F250 - How To Replace the Rear Main Seal

..... How difficult of a job is it to replace a rear main seal with the engine still in the vehicle.

Vehicle is a 89 F250 w/5.0.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 01:14 PM
Lazy K Lazy K is offline
Post Fiend
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Lazy K is a name known to allLazy K is a name known to allLazy K is a name known to allLazy K is a name known to allLazy K is a name known to allLazy K is a name known to all
Without removing either the engine or trans., I would have thought impossible. Have you tried Engine Oil Stop Leak in the lube. This softens the rubber seal and sometimes makes the rubber expand to reduce any oil leak.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 01:18 PM
Spaznaut Spaznaut is offline
Senior User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE Tennessee
Posts: 443
Spaznaut is starting off with a positive reputation.
2wd or 4wd? If 4wd will be very heavy and need a trans jack. 2wd those Trans are still heavy but not as bad. You'd have to pull the trans away from the engine as I believe yours is a one-piece rear seal so no way around it. I have the seal and oil pan gasket sitting on my computer monitor waiting on me to get off my duff and do it.
__________________
'90 F150 4x4 302 E4od MSD 6A Summit headers

Red, reg cab, short bed

Real men are never done.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 01:31 PM
Katmandu's Avatar
Katmandu Katmandu is offline
Elder User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Troy,Ohio
Posts: 538
Katmandu is starting off with a positive reputation.
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaznaut
2wd or 4wd? If 4wd will be very heavy and need a trans jack. I believe yours is a one-piece rear seal so no way around it. t.
It is a 4WD.

How do you install a ONE-piece rear seal ?? How do you slide it over the flywheel flange ??

Do you have to drop the pan, pull the main caps, drop the crankshaft to install the rear seal ??
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 09:59 PM
turboguy turboguy is offline
Senior User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 271
turboguy is starting off with a positive reputation.
dude... its complicated. how bads the leak?
__________________
1990 ford f150 4x4. 5.0L 302, intake, headers, flows, tb spacer, 3 inches of lift, rebuilt bushings, posi rear end, lockers up front 140k miles.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 10:06 PM
monsterbaby's Avatar
monsterbaby monsterbaby is offline
Super Moderator
1967 Ford Galaxie
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: iowa
Posts: 18,001
monsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputationmonsterbaby has a superb reputation
you can do it in the truck but believe me on a one piece seal it's easier to pull the engine, and will your at it maybe even replace the bearings, and oil pump, timing chain expecially the timing chain if it has the original one in it since they used a nylon gear on the cam.
__________________
Rob

The one that says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one that is doing it
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 10:24 PM
Katmandu's Avatar
Katmandu Katmandu is offline
Elder User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Troy,Ohio
Posts: 538
Katmandu is starting off with a positive reputation.
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguy
dude... its complicated. how bads the leak?
Drips out about 10cc or so after the engine is stopped. Don't know how bad it is when driving it ??
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2005, 08:42 PM
Popa Tim Popa Tim is offline
Posting Guru
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Central NY
Posts: 1,781
Popa Tim is starting off with a positive reputation.
thats nothing... i leak a quart every 3 days... I've got an oil pan replacement coming up.
__________________
F150 XLT 4x4 5.0 E4OD Supercab Shortbed
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2005, 08:08 AM
Spaznaut Spaznaut is offline
Senior User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE Tennessee
Posts: 443
Spaznaut is starting off with a positive reputation.
I'm trying to put mine off til I have the money to either rebuild the motor or get me a crate motor.
__________________
'90 F150 4x4 302 E4od MSD 6A Summit headers

Red, reg cab, short bed

Real men are never done.
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2005, 10:05 AM
subford's Avatar
subford subford is offline
Post Fiend
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 16,131
subford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud of
Oh its not that hard just do the following.
1. Remove Transmission
2. Drop Oil Pan
3. Remove Flywheel
4. Remove Engine Rear Plate
5. Remove Rear Main Bearing Cap
6. Loosen Other Main Bearing Caps
7. Remove Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal

Reverse order to reassemble.

Here is a diagram.
Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
95 F150 302 4R70W EB EX-CAB
94 F53 460 E4OD COACHMEN SANTARA RV
83 F150 Flare Side 351W AOD
77 F250 351M-2V NP 435/4 Speed 4X4
subford@gmail.com
Bill K, Kansas Chapter
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2005, 11:43 AM
Katmandu's Avatar
Katmandu Katmandu is offline
Elder User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Troy,Ohio
Posts: 538
Katmandu is starting off with a positive reputation.
Question

Thanks for the replies so far.

How difficult is it to access the rear seal this way ?

- Slide the transmission back a few inches
- Remove the flywheel/engine plate
- R&R Seal with a Slide hammer/screw setup
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2005, 05:20 PM
Katmandu's Avatar
Katmandu Katmandu is offline
Elder User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Troy,Ohio
Posts: 538
Katmandu is starting off with a positive reputation.
Anyone ????
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2005, 07:24 PM
subford's Avatar
subford subford is offline
Post Fiend
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 16,131
subford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katmandu
Thanks for the replies so far.

How difficult is it to access the rear seal this way ?

- Slide the transmission back a few inches
- Remove the flywheel/engine plate
- R&R Seal with a Slide hammer/screw setup
"- Slide the transmission back a few inches"
Can you say two feet for the slide hammer.

"- R&R Seal with a Slide hammer/screw setup"
No way, the rear seal is held tight by the rear main.
To take the rear main off you have to drop the pan, to take the pan off you have to put blocks under the motor mounts and support the rear of the engine.
To take the pan off you normally jack up the engine, put blocks under the mounts and support the back of the engine with the transmission.

To take the transmission off you normally support the back of the engine with the pan.

In your case you have a catch 22 as you will have to take them both off, so in that case you pull the engine.
__________________
95 F150 302 4R70W EB EX-CAB
94 F53 460 E4OD COACHMEN SANTARA RV
83 F150 Flare Side 351W AOD
77 F250 351M-2V NP 435/4 Speed 4X4
subford@gmail.com
Bill K, Kansas Chapter

Last edited by subford; 11-05-2005 at 07:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2005, 07:38 PM
wtroger wtroger is online now
Posting Guru
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,766
wtroger is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I have never had to drop the pan to put in a one piece rear seal. Pull tranny or engine use slide hammer and screw setup pop seal out drive new seal in, put back to gather.
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2005, 08:32 PM
subford's Avatar
subford subford is offline
Post Fiend
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 16,131
subford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud ofsubford has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtroger
I have never had to drop the pan to put in a one piece rear seal. Pull tranny or engine use slide hammer and screw setup pop seal out drive new seal in, put back to gather.
OK you are right and I was wrong.

Here is the way the book says to do it.

Removal
1. Remove transmission. If vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, remove clutch assembly.

2. Remove flywheel from engine.

3. CAUTION: Use caution to avoid scratching or damaging the oil sealing surfaces during crankshaft rear oil seal removal.

Using a sharp awl, punch one hole in the seal metal surface between the seal lip and the cylinder block.

4. Screw the threaded portion of Jet Plug Remover T77L-9533-B into the hole and remove crankshaft rear oil seal.

Installation
1. Coat the oil seal-to-cylinder block surfaces of the crankshaft rear oil seal with oil XO-5W30-QSP or -DSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C-153-E. Coat the seal contact surface of the crankshaft rear oil seal and crankshaft with heavy SG engine oil. Place crankshaft rear oil seal on Rear Oil Seal Replacer T89T-6701-AH and, using hammer, tap into place until tool contacts face of cylinder block or bearing cap.
__________________
95 F150 302 4R70W EB EX-CAB
94 F53 460 E4OD COACHMEN SANTARA RV
83 F150 Flare Side 351W AOD
77 F250 351M-2V NP 435/4 Speed 4X4
subford@gmail.com
Bill K, Kansas Chapter

Last edited by subford; 11-05-2005 at 08:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2005, 08:32 PM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1990, 302, 351w, 89, change, engine, f150, ford, howto, install, main, oil, rear, red, replace, seal, v8

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.5.2 ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.



 
vbulletin Admin Backup