Now that I have a little bit more time, I'll try to do a more technical explanation of why I think it might it still might be the the CPS.

Decelleration is one of the lowest fuel demand times for the engine. In fact as Springerpop stated, depending on RPMs or MPHs, the engine may defuel and shut the injectors off (go "quiet") until a certain lower RPM level is reached or the accellerator pedal is pushed / brakes tapped. The PCM(Powertrain Control Module / engine computer) determines RPMs from the CPS. The CPS is "reading" 15* timing points off the camshaft. If the PCM doesn't get those CPS signals it shuts off because it doesn't know where the mechcanical stuff is, i.e. where the cyclinders are in their travels, whether the valves are opened or closed, when to fire the injectors, etc. It shuts the engine off to protect itself from doing something at the wrong time and damaging the engine. If the PCM doesn't get those CPS signals on decelleration, it doesn't know what the RPMs are and when to pick up the idle (start injecting fuel again) so it shuts the engine off. It could be other stuff but I would think there would be other symptoms, i.e. rough idle, poor accelleration. My beer is still on the CPS.

As an aside, I met a guy camping that hadn't changed his fuel filter on his '96 PSD in 44K. (Not recommended) He thought they were like gas fuel filters (his first diesel). He said he never had any problems. I helped him change it. You would'nt believe how black it was.

 

What's involved in changing the fuel filter, I don't even know where it's located? Yeah, this is my first deisel also. I thought is was like a gas fuel filter too, what's the difference?

Thanks, James

 

James.

Under the plastic "Powerstroke" engine you will find a round cannister looking deal...that's the filter.

Locate the yellow handle of the drain valve and open it. Once the filter drains remove the cap turning it counterclockwise, a large pair of slip joint pliers or a oil filter strap works well for this. Remove the old filter and o-rings. Install the new filter and o-rings. Close the filter drain and fill the bowl with diesel fuel or diesel kleen. Re-install the lid and crank it up.

Doesn't take more than 10 minutes and you don't have to lay on your back with gas dripping in your face.

 

hope you wouldnt have gas dripping in your face.....


oh yeah when you open that yellow valve have a drain pan under the truck or park where you dont mind making a mess its about 16oz of diesel thats gonna drain out.

 

Thanks for all the help. I'm pretty sure it was dirty oil that caused the stalling when decelerating. After the oil change last weekend it died on me once. I usually change the oil at 3500-4000 miles, but I let it go twice that long this time. I'll have to get that filter done this weekend, see how dirty that thing is...

 

"Lastminute here" I was having that problem and getting worse. the only codes were for exhaust backpressure sensor problems and that did not fix it. turned out to be an oil change. (the oil has an anti foaming agent in it so that it can maintain high pressure on top of the injectors. the agent dies with age. cured my trouble.)( I bought my truck with the problem alredy existing so don't know how old the oil was)

 

Not from his truck, no. He said he was used to gas filters...and that means an inline filter on the frame or in front of the tank....dripping in his face.

 

man i dont miss that......

 

Haha....I keep Mrs.cookie's Windstar around just to remind me of how much I hate the smell of gasoline.

 

Well, after changing oil and fuel filter, the truck still dies. Completely shutting off mostly, but not only when decelerating. About the CPS, is that a dealer service item, or can a fairly competent do-it-yourselfer deal with it, and what is involved?

Thanks, James

 

You can do it easily. All you need is a 10mm socket, ratchet, and 4" extension, and a flat head screwdriver.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...4042038YpzSoJ#
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...84046575HPSSqb

Don't worry about removing the belt, you can reach the sensor from underneath the truck and remove it with the belt in place. Takes about 10-15 minutes.

 

Thanks Scott,

I'll give it a try next week and post the results.

 

Don't buy a CPS from a dealer, about $180. But it from an International dealer, $110, or online, Ebay, $60-80, if you can wait for delivery. I think some of the auto parts places, Autozone, Pep Boys, etc carry them now too. There is a "How to replace...CPS" in the articles/specs section at the top of this web page.

I've found the coolest picture on line I've seen for the CPS location and what it does. It's a cut away, so you'll not see the internal timing wheel the CPS ia "reading" but it's a great picture.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...45694045wmgDtW

 

Finally got around to replacing the CPS a week ago. 90 miles of bliss, NO stalls. Thanks everyone for the suggestions & tips. found a CPS on eBay for under $60 after shipping. 15 minutes to change part. You guys saved me $$$, I should have done this months ago.

 

Stroker2 gets the beer on this one.