Glow Plug/gpr/hard Winter Start And White Smoke Thread

1997F-350 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-19-2005, 09:39 PM

ok guys heres the deal. i got the go ahead from cookie about making a sticky thread on changing glow plugs, gpr, ohm readings, finding your block heater cord, white smoke and anything valuable you can add.
the reason i thought of this was last fall/ winter myself and a million others had problems with our trucks. so hopefully we can make this thread a one stop shop for all who require assistance. and also not see 100 threads a day about gp's.

removal of glow plugs(if there was autolites installed before you will probably have issues trying to remove them)
1. a deepwell very thin walled 10mm socket is almost a must for removal of glow plugs!!!!(if it is thick it will hit your rocker arm/ pushrod and get stuck)
2. a little medicine dropper to suck the oil out of the recessed area on top of the glow plug so it doesn't run into your cylinder when you pull the glow plug.
you will also need a torque wrench that goes as low as 14 ft lbs.
the way to get the passenger side valve cover off you gotta lift the firewall end up first then the front side of it to get it out. not to bad. that back bolt takes some work a shorty 13mm and a 3/8 in drive ratchet and a lot of ratcheting motions.

a few part numbers
glow plugs
(AutoZone) ZD-10 or ZD-11 (Beru plugs) about 9 bucks comes in oem ford package.
(Ford) F4TZ-12A342-A
(International) 1820697C2
i cant emphasize this enough. do not buy AUTOLITE GLOW PLUGS
Glow Plug Deactivation Kit (opens at 115 degrees coolant temp)
(International) 1831142C91
Glow Plug Relay
(Allied Electronics) 576-1078 (Stancor Heavy Duty 586-902)
(AutoZone) MR99
(Ford) F7TZ-12B533-CA (94-96 with pigtail)
(Ford) F81Z-12B533-AC (96-early 2000 w/o pigtail)
(International) 1807230C2
(International) 1826634C94
(Napa) GPR-109 <-----20 bucks at napa
Glow Plug Relay shunt; Required for GP monitor circuit; 97 CA
(Ford) F7TZ-12B533-B

GPR:
is located on passenger side of valley by the fuel filter housing. looks like a starter relay.

WHITE SMOKE:
unburnt fuel. if you have this on a cold start up you probably have 1 or more gp's not working.

BLOCK HEATER CORD:
orange cord that comes out of engine right above oil filter housing. follow it forward. it is probably in your bumper somewhere. if you see no orange cord you probably dont have one on your truck.

i am sure i missed lots of things

. but

that is where you come in. please dont repost something that is already here. i definitely need someone to post on ohm reading and the testing portion.

if you find in the process of changing out your glow plugs you have the following: burnt uvc wiring, burnt connector on gaskets, or external plug damage click here for part #'s, cost and what it looks like and cheapest place i found to order part from.
thanks in advance to all who contribute and good luck to all that take on this task.

also wouldn't be a bad idea if someone could dig up one of there old writeups that had a glowplug stuck. copy and paste the actual content into this post to avoid having to click on a whole bunch of links.

RedStroker6 · #2 (**permalink**) 10-20-2005, 06:45 PM

dude, awesome idea. and props to the mod who decided to make it a sticky. good thinkin' ya'll!

SpringerPop · #3 (**permalink**) 10-20-2005, 10:25 PM

What is an International Glow Plug Deactivation Kit? First I've heard of it.

I'm assuming from its description that it opens the GPR coil above 115 degrees F.

Got any more information on its use? Is it only OEM on Navistars?

Pop

cangim · #4 (**permalink**) 10-23-2005, 11:05 AM

Each valve cover has an electrical connection; each connector has 8 pins. The two outer pins on each side connect to the glowplugs under the cover. The center four pins connect to the injector coils. You'll need a multi meter that can measure ohms. Connect one lead (usually the balck one) to a good ground. Then probe each of the outer pins on the connector. Good glow plugs usually measure between .8 ohms to 1.5 ohms. Some may be outside of that, but won't stray too far. Bad plugs can measure anywhere above 20 ohms, for instance, when I replaced mine, I had three plugs that measured 800 ohms, two that where open or infinite resistance, and one that was around 600 ohms.

Lagerhead · #5 (**permalink**) 10-24-2005, 07:46 PM

Ive never had a hard start or a lot of white smoke during are brutle central florida winters

basstardo · #6 (**permalink**) 10-25-2005, 09:29 AM

Ok kiddies, I did everything this weekend, but I have a problem (other than finding an extra rocker arm under the passenger side valve cover between cylinders 1 and 3

) The little black plug that goes onto the white wire that hooks up to the glow plug itself is worn out. Apparently it was up against a push rod for cylinder 3 for some time, and it has worn about 75% of the wire away. After changing everything out, I'm still seeing white smoke at startup, so I'm guessing that cylinder is causing the white smoke. So, would this be all I need?

WuShock · #7 (**permalink**) 10-25-2005, 03:08 PM

I think you might emphasize 90% of glow plug related issure are GPR related and not so much GP related. I would hate to see all these guys go tearing into their trucks only to relaize its a 5 minute job to replace the GPR

onebadf250 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-25-2005, 11:33 PM

When you guys are talking about hard starts, are you referring to it not wanting to crank at all or the romp romp romp that mine made when I cranked it this morn in 38degree weather here in NWFL? I read a "Ford" fix that said to use a thinner CF grade oil...10W-30...I think is what it was.(Don't take my word on that though) But you guys have me wanting to check my GPR. If that is going bad will it throw a code that my programmer will pick up? I looked at the GPR replacement in my Chilton Manual and it doesn't look to bad to replace if need be. Any insight????
Thanks,
Rob

1997F-350 · #9 (**permalink**) 10-26-2005, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onebadf250

When you guys are talking about hard starts, are you referring to it not wanting to crank at all or the romp romp romp that mine made when I cranked it this morn in 38degree weather here in NWFL? I read a "Ford" fix that said to use a thinner CF grade oil...10W-30...I think is what it was.(Don't take my word on that though) But you guys have me wanting to check my GPR. If that is going bad will it throw a code that my programmer will pick up? I looked at the GPR replacement in my Chilton Manual and it doesn't look to bad to replace if need be. Any insight????
Thanks,
Rob

if your truck wont start touch both big posts on gpr together with a screwdriver for about 15 seconds. then hop in truck and start. if it works its your gpr thats bad if not you got gp issues.

TimHixson · #10 (**permalink**) 10-26-2005, 09:58 AM

Can I use the GPR 109 on my 01 PSD truck?? Ford wants $101 for one!

wycowboy · #11 (**permalink**) 10-26-2005, 11:07 AM

I belive yo can but not for suer, I have a 97 and obs truck and they wanted to sell me GPR110 for 90 or so but from all the checking I've done it seems that all the internals of the two GPR's are the same. and should work!J

TimHixson · #12 (**permalink**) 10-26-2005, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wycowboy

I belive yo can but not for suer, I have a 97 and obs truck and they wanted to sell me GPR110 for 90 or so but from all the checking I've done it seems that all the internals of the two GPR's are the same. and should work!J

I got one at lunch (the 109). It looks the same, with two large studs and two smaller ones. I will put it on tonight and let you know how it goes.

Tim

cangim · #13 (**permalink**) 10-26-2005, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onebadf250

When you guys are talking about hard starts, are you referring to it not wanting to crank at all or the romp romp romp that mine made when I cranked it this morn in 38degree weather here in NWFL? I read a "Ford" fix that said to use a thinner CF grade oil...10W-30...I think is what it was.(Don't take my word on that though) But you guys have me wanting to check my GPR. If that is going bad will it throw a code that my programmer will pick up? I looked at the GPR replacement in my Chilton Manual and it doesn't look to bad to replace if need be. Any insight????
Thanks,
Rob

Yes the ROMP ROMP ROMP is a fine indication that something in not working, it would be accompanied by a fair to moderate amount of white smoke.

TimHixson · #14 (**permalink**) 10-27-2005, 07:54 AM

Ok, I installed the gpr 109 last night, and have a couple of questions.

1. What does the bigger solinoid that is in front of the GPR do?
2. Do the glow plugs come on when starting a warm engine?

My engine had been off for maybe 10-15 minutes (while switching solinoids),
and it did not power the solinoid when I turned on the key.

I have not tried it again yet.

WuShock · #15 (**permalink**) 10-27-2005, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimHixson

Can I use the GPR 109 on my 01 PSD truck?? Ford wants $101 for one!

When you got to Napa tell them you need a part # GRP-109. They are around $20. If you ask for one by year and model of truck youll pay closer to $60 or $70 for one.

I put a

a Stancor 586-902 contactor in mine. I got it from Mouser.com for under $45. It is about 3 times the size of the stock GPR.