I still got noticeable smoke with mine on a cold start. Always starts up though. Everything is new except for the VC gaskets. So if your replacing the gp's pry be a good idea to do the vc gaskets too.
I'm starting to believe that mine is over smoking at idle. I've tested the gp's and they all seem to be fine (they should be, I just replaced them a month or two ago along with the gpr). My question is would I have more smoke with the 10 k and big injectors/nozzles? My question being that the increased oil pressure is putting more fuel out there than the computer knows, hence making it smoke. Doesn't smoke a lick once I get the egts up to 250-300 or so.
What about the fuel bowl heater?
It's also seems like it takes more cranks to start up aswell. Warm/cold is doesn't matter. Hmm.. maybe I'm just starting to imagine things now.
I'm gonna try and post of video of a cold startup.
Wow what a thread!! I have learned alot about the GPR and Glow Plugs and it seems as though I have glow plugs that are not working. Sense I was in the driveway in a snow storm, I could only test the rear two on passenger side and front two on drivers side without some disassembly. I used the test light method and it appears there is no continuity. Has any one used the AC Delco brand of glow plugs? $6.95 each at the local parts store.
Tim in Chelan
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1997 F350 Crew Cab, 7.3L Power Stroke, The Luxury Liner
1968 F250 Camper Special, 390, The Wife's Truck
1969 Bronco, Work in progress
2004 Eddie Bauer Explorer,
For anyone not fluent in multimeters, connect the ground clip of a test light to a battery positive.
touch the pointed end to a glow plug tip or the wire that goes to the tip.
Light comes on-good plug.
No light- bad plug
Well after rereading this post I may not have did it right. I have two electric plugs on each side one near the back and one near the front on each side. There were not eight pins in the plugs either I think there were only 5 pins and I touched the two outer most pins. I am fluent with a multimeter so when I get a chance I will measure all of the pins and see what I have, at least from the back plug on the passenger side for starters.
Tim
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1997 F350 Crew Cab, 7.3L Power Stroke, The Luxury Liner
1968 F250 Camper Special, 390, The Wife's Truck
1969 Bronco, Work in progress
2004 Eddie Bauer Explorer,
2000 7.3 with k&n kit, hypertech programmer set on #2. Hard to start in the cold, 45 or lower. Smokes when trying to start and runs ruff for a few seconds after start. Batteries are good, had them tested, new bat conectors.. Changed the GPR.
I ohmed the pass side and they all read 1.4 or 1.5.
The driver's side all read 0.0, I doubled checked the common and tried again and the same 0.0.
Any suggestions?
I have a 2000 that is starting to get hard to start in the morning. It always starts, but recently (as its been colder I guess?) It has been starting and romping (romp romp romp romp) If I hit the gas it smoothes it out but doesnt rev past 1200 or so for a few seconds, and it is slow as hell for a mile or so. It pushes a little white smoke, not excessive. Is this low oil pressure in the HPOP circut, or glow plug related? any help would be appreciated!
Great thread! However, I have a strange problem not related to GP's or the GP Relay, but maybe ICP or CPS.
I have a stock 97 PSD. Won't start worth a crap. Been going on for about a month now. When warmed up using a block heater, it will turn over fine and fire off, then quit. Then it acts like it isn't getting fuel (by the sound of it, and it doesn't smoke). If I wait for a while, cycling the GP's, it will eventually start, but when I got back from the holidays and it took me 2 HOURS of worth of cranking in the airport parking lot for the damn thing to start (Thank God for high Cold Cranking Amps batteries ).
There is also one really strange thing that has happened 3 times, all of which after it was plugged in for more than an hour, and after 15-30 minutes worth of cycling the GP's and trying to start every 3-5 minutes or so. The first time it happened, it sounded like pressure being relieved somewhere, then a "thunk" sound. The next two times, it was a definate clunk, like something opening or closing. Immediatley after (in each instance), the engine fired right up, first crank.
I will try the ICP test, as I suspect that might be the problem, but a trusted source told me to also check the Cam Positon Sensor. Any other ideas?
EDIT:
Continutiy of all GP's tested fine, as did the GPR.
Also, my tach has never registered any RPM's while cranking since I have owned it, therefore I don't know if I am getting above 200 RPM's while starting.
I'm gonna post this in a new thread, as my problem sounds fairly unique.
Last edited by 300sixpack; 01-02-2008 at 07:52 PM.
Reason: forgot something
My truck won't start. Again. SO I drove my $300 1976 RV to work today. I hate the cold.
So I was rereading this post for my next thing to fix on the $14,000 truck (see how I got to work today, above) and I got to thinking... How long should the GRP-109 last? I put one in two years ago (along with glowplugs).
I'll be checking the resistance of GPs, ICP unplug test, fuse #22, block heater, and recharge my new 1000 cca batteries.
I hate the cold.
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1997 Powerstoke 7.3L Turbo Diesel 4X4
3" to 4" downpipe, 4" stainless exhaust, superchips programmer, boost, pyro, & trans temp gauges, 6637 filter, 203* thermostat
Yes, it does sound good!
TRUCK IS PARKED DUE TO DIESEL PRICES. CURRENT TRANSPORTATION IS A 600CC MOTORCYCLE
As it turns out, just a bit less than two years is how long a GPR-109 lasts. It still worked, but poorly. So I replaced it. $34 counting tax from NAPA. Starting this morning (17 degrees) there was greatly reduced white smoke after starting during the warm up.
__________________
1997 Powerstoke 7.3L Turbo Diesel 4X4
3" to 4" downpipe, 4" stainless exhaust, superchips programmer, boost, pyro, & trans temp gauges, 6637 filter, 203* thermostat
Yes, it does sound good!
TRUCK IS PARKED DUE TO DIESEL PRICES. CURRENT TRANSPORTATION IS A 600CC MOTORCYCLE
good to hear it worked out for you. I had to replace my GPR last winter and got it from napa, but they charged me like 50 bucks. guess i should look forward to replacing it again next year :/
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