Just to let you all know - the GPR-109 at NAPA is now $29.95 less 7% for AAA discount. It still works like a champ. I love you guys. I was about to replace my glow plugs until I read the post. Saved me ~$100 and hours of time.
Anybody want to trade a PSD for World Series tickets? What about my wife?
Just kidding - about the truck! GO ROCKIES!
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2000 F350 Lariat, PSD, Crew Cab, Short Bed, Tymar
First off thanks guys for all the info there is some really good stuff in there and i'm going to try some of that out.
Second GO ROCKIES is right i'm from colorado and man its about time they made it, over in four you heard it here first!!
Now down to business. I have a pretty big problem when i start my truck, temp doesn't really matter but its a little worse in the cold, i blow white smoke for about 10 minutes if i just let it idle. if i try to drive it before its warmed up it feels like its missing on half of the cylinders or an injector is sticking, this goes on until the temp guage hits the N on normal. But if i plug it in this gets rid of the missing problem, however, she still blows a pretty big cloud of white smoke for a minute or two. i'm not to sure what the problem is, i just replaced all eight GP's so i'm pretty sure thats not it, didnt see any problems with the wiring either. the voltage drops about a quater of the way once she is started so i believe the GP's are getting power. So i've narrowed it down to a couple things: injector is sticking open, GPR bad or something else that you guys are going to help with. Oh and i just changed the oil and drained the fuel from the fuel filter housing so thats not the cause. Thanks i appreciate any feedback
Hey Devman and welcome. The white smoke sounds like the relay. Mine was thick as the smoke off dry ice and would continue for a minute after an attempt to start. I am not an advocate of changing parts "just to see", but I was out in my other truck (56 Chevy) and driving by NAPA so I went ahead and sprang for the GPR. I figured if I replaced alll the glow plugs I would be replacing the relay anyway. Well it was the problem for me. I went out early this morning and it started right up with no smoke. I bought the GPR109 for ~$27 after AAA Discount. I think the GPR110 was ~$70 before discount. According to posts earlier on this thread, the 110 could be handy if you spend alot of nights in the mountains, but here in Denver the 109 should be fine.
What a fiasco on the Rockies WS tix. Now I have to take a few more hours off again today to try to get tix. It will be worth it if sussessful. GO ROCKIES!
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2000 F350 Lariat, PSD, Crew Cab, Short Bed, Tymar
Hey thanks i'll try that as soon as i get a free minute or two, i just need to find where a NAPA is. Does any one think it might be an injector or am i completely wrong for assuming this?
i tested my glow plugs with a ohm meter and all but one read 7 ohms the other plug didn't read at all i'm thinking it could be a burnt wire or something under the valve cover but is 7 ohms bad
Good choice to sticky this thread now that fall is here.
I already plan to replace my GPR based on what I am reading here, but there are a few other issues that may indicate another problem for me.
My truck is dead stock, but I do have a Hypertech programmer for it. Since I haven't owned the truck very long I have run it stock initially to make sure that everything is ok. A few days ago I tried the stage one setting. I set it in a parking lot and everything was ok, but when I rolled out to the exit and while idling at the stoplight my truck began to chug and shake like a gasser with a bad spark plug. I drove around the corner, parked, and reset the computer to stock. When I restarted it it chugged for 10 seconds or so then smoothed out and drove just fine.
Now that the temps have dropped I also have a cold start issue. It doesnt want to start, but a tap of the throttle gets it going (I just read that I shouldnt do that), and then I get a puff of the white smoke. Sometimes it is fine after that, and sometimes it chugs. When it is chugging it smooths out after a few hundred feet of driving.
How much of this is glow plug related and how much is something else?
i tested my glow plugs with a ohm meter and all but one read 7 ohms the other plug didn't read at all i'm thinking it could be a burnt wire or something under the valve cover but is 7 ohms bad
7 ohms is OK when going though the wire harness too. The harness adds a little resistance. You can recheck themwhen you replace the bad GP if that's what you find. Could be wiring? BTW: I would do all 4 if you are going to pull the v-cover anyway. You can get them for 2.99 at autozone. Ask for zd-11 GP's. Don't have them do it vehicle specific. I just bought 32 of them.
I've never gotten autolites from them but I've only delt with them for 5-6 years a guess. If you ask for ZD-11 you'll get motorcraft beru's. They are not selling GP's anymore. The warranty must have got to them. I know I've taken a couple sets back.
Man was I glad to see this thread. I've got some weird stuff going on with my GP system.
I always unplug the wiring harness to my GPR during the summer just to save on the GPs and batteries. Well, we had a little cool snap here in Lower Alabama the other nite and my truck didn't want to start the next morning so I plugged my GPR back in. Tried to start it again and for the first time I noticed that I had no "Wait to start" light. Still did not want to start. The GPR is only about a year old so I'm hoping it's still good (especially since it has been unplugged for most of the time). It does not "click" when the key is turned on. There is no voltage drop indicated on the dash like there used to be when all was working. What turns the "Wait to start" light on? The small wire that runs from the GPR and goes to ground to activate the coil..... where does it pick up the ground?
Thanks for any suggestions!
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