the bulbs come out of the back of it. look at your black dash beezel, there is 2 removable strips on each side, pop em out, undo the 8mm (?) screws. pop off the headlight knob, pull beezel away from dash, diconnect wiring harness from back of wts cluster, unscrew and remove the little box. there is 4 bulbs or so in there. replace em.
I've got one bad GP, front on the passenger side. I figure if I'm going to fix it, I will do all 4 on that side. Are the valve cover gskts reusable, if not, where's a good place to get them?
it was a sticky last winter in here and the sd forum. then in the spring they pulled it. i had cookie put it back up about 2 months ago but then they made a change to the stickys. oh well.
I've got one bad GP, front on the passenger side. I figure if I'm going to fix it, I will do all 4 on that side. Are the valve cover gskts reusable, if not, where's a good place to get them?
as long as the connectors for the wiring arent burnt and the sealing surface is good yes they are re useable.
The Glow Plug Relay probably needs to be replaced if you haven't done it yet. The jumper test is alright, but replacing a part that is known to go bad is a sound investment.
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1997 Powerstoke 7.3L Turbo Diesel 4X4
3" to 4" downpipe, 4" stainless exhaust, superchips programmer, boost, pyro, & trans temp gauges, 6637 filter, 203* thermostat
Yes, it does sound good!
TRUCK IS PARKED DUE TO DIESEL PRICES. CURRENT TRANSPORTATION IS A 600CC MOTORCYCLE
GPR relay replacement: Remove engine cover. Right (passenger) side of engine behind HPOP reservoir is the GPR (looks like a starter solenoid. Disconnect BOTH negative battery cables. Disconnect the wires from the terminals on the GPR, remove old GPR from mount. Install new GPR on mount, reconnect the wires to the terminals on the new GPR. Reconnect BOTH negative battery cables. Replace engine cover. Done.
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95 F250, XLT, 2WD, 5 Spd, 4.10 l/s, SuperCab, Longbed. Beans Stage II's, Open air intake, EBPV gutted, SSX, downpipe, CAT gutted, 10K mod, shimmed FPR, GPR control switch, gauges (Pyro, Boost, AMPs, mechanical Oil Pres. & mech. Water Temp.)
02 F150 Super Crew, Lariat (Wife's)
81 Bronco with 460
It seems like the new GPR may have helped some. I think it's causing the GP's to cycle longer than they were. However, still taking forever to get my engine to fire up. Also--I forgot to mention I've been leaving the block heater plugged in all night long. Shouldn't it be starting easily unless something's wrong with the BH?
Please comment on what might be next to check:
- glow plugs
- oil weight change (still using 15/30)
- coolant/antifreeze reservoir is really low
- battery check (2 new Napa batteries about 8 months ago)
To check your block heater: with an ohm meter, make sure you have continuity between the plugs on your block heater, if not, bad block heater, replace it.
To check your glow plugs and/or UVC (Under Valve Cover) wiring: Disconnect your valve cover connectors. There are five pins inside, 1-2-3-4-5. Pins # 1 & # 5 are for the glow plugs. Pin # 3 is common (ground). Ohm from one of the glow plug pins to an engine ground and then to the common pin. Ohms should be 3 - 5 ohms, (7 max). If the engine ground and common pin ohms have a large variance, this could mean that the UVC (Under Valve Cover) wiring has problems.
As for the oil, 15W40 is recommended for normal climates, 10W30 for temperatures below 20 degrees fahranheit.
Low coolant will not effect starting.
If it is spinning over fast, your batteries should be good. But remember "new" does not mean "good". It takes alot of amps "NOT VOLTS" to start our trucks.
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95 F250, XLT, 2WD, 5 Spd, 4.10 l/s, SuperCab, Longbed. Beans Stage II's, Open air intake, EBPV gutted, SSX, downpipe, CAT gutted, 10K mod, shimmed FPR, GPR control switch, gauges (Pyro, Boost, AMPs, mechanical Oil Pres. & mech. Water Temp.)
02 F150 Super Crew, Lariat (Wife's)
81 Bronco with 460
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