Exactly how much (or for how long) smoke is considered "normal" at cold start?. Lets say temp is 40 degrees. Is it actually possible to have none at all? Mine pumps out white for maybe 10 seconds, or about a garageful, after that there is still some brown, not all that visible smoke coming almost indefinitely or until I start driving, when all smoke disappears entirely. It's a -97 PSD w/85000 miles and probably original plugs and all. No other performance problems.
that is fine....
if you wait about 20 seconds after you turn the key you should have almost none....
if you still do you may have a gpr on its way out or 1 or 2 plugs bad...
Hi I have a 96 f250 psd and just recently began really hard to start problems. I was at a cold temp and couldn't plug it in and couldn't start it towed it to a plug and it started after 2-3 hours of warming. Then i got it to 50 degree weather and had the same problem. I was previously noticing a ton of white smoke before when starting it cold but now it just cranks. I went out and changed all 8 gp's and the problem is still there. Still won't start when cold. Lastly I hear the initial click when i turn the ignition on see the voltage drop but never hear the second click after it should time out? any ideas?
Sounds like a bad glow plug relay. Look at some of the previous replies in this thread and it will tell you how to test it. My truck did exactly the same thing.
i have a 95 f250 diesel that at around 1200-1600 rolls white smoke what im wonderin could this have to do with a junk chip that the previous owner could have installed?
you should make a separate post from this....are you sure its white? be more specific when it does it like cold/hot and everything else you can think of and we will help you.
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yeah mine E350 wouldn't start last week and finally with some help it did, i guess it has something to do with the glowplugs but since it also gave a lot of white smoke during the summer i thought it was normal (bought it last year) but with the cold weather it doesn't sart anymore. since i have two lefties i had to bring it to the workshop will let you know if anything odd was done to it.
When I replaced my gp's I made the mistake of allowing some oil from the rail to get inot the cylinders. VERY BAD THING TO DO. Not realizing it, I finished putting everything back together and when I tried to start it, it wouldn't even turn over, it was hydro locked. Fortunately it didn't do any damage. I had to start all over and pull each gp out and clear the cylinders of the oil. So my recommendation is after you pull out the glow plug, just insert a long clear rubber hose into the cylinder and suck on it like a straw or hook it up to a shop vacuum cleaner and make sure there isn't any oil in the cylinder.
We all learn from each others mistakes and hopefully don't repeat them.
Great thread! I had to replace my glow plug relay this week, and I've got a couple of things out of it:
First, you cannot tell by the in dash voltmeter if the GPR is bad or the glow plugs themselves are bad (if you still have a voltage drop)
Second, the GPR-109 and GPR-110 are almost identical, but at $23, the GPR-109 is cheaper (NAPA), but the manuals said I needed the 110 (for a 1997 model). It took some figuring out, but the 110 is apparently rated for a longer load time than the 109 - this is important for folks like me who live in colder climates and have the relay energized for longer periods of time. Otherwise, they are nearly identical, they exception being how the mounting tabs are rotated.
I was lucky when I replaced my relay. When I was removing the electrical connections, the battery lead came completely out of the old relay. I was pretty happy that I had a "smoking gun" in my hands since it was 5 degrees out (-10 with the wind chill)! And in case anybody was wondering, if you drop one of the smaller nuts (due to frozen fingers or something) and can't find it, the nut on the field terminal of an old Ford alternator fits perfect.
when changing the glow plugs, I understand that I have to remove the valve covers. Now I priced out gaskets, and they want 136.00 at autozone for these per side. Has anyone came across this, and have you had to change the gaskets? I have a 96 7.3L PSD.
go to international 86 bucks for 2
i paid last week i am replacing mine when i do my GPs and the injectors
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