Yes the ROMP ROMP ROMP is a fine indication that something in not working, it would be accompanied by a fair to moderate amount of white smoke.
No white smoke...Only black when I gouge on it. It has never done the romp romp crank before...Just started since it got cold. Could it still have something to do with the GPR? I can cycle my glow plugs a couple of times and it will crank fine...I've noticed that my oil pressure light stays on a couple of seconds longer than usual. Makes me think the oil is a little to thick and is taking a little longer to get flowing...anybody else got any suggestions???? Had similar problem???
No white smoke...Only black when I gouge on it. It has never done the romp romp crank before...Just started since it got cold. Could it still have something to do with the GPR? I can cycle my glow plugs a couple of times and it will crank fine...I've noticed that my oil pressure light stays on a couple of seconds longer than usual. Makes me think the oil is a little to thick and is taking a little longer to get flowing...anybody else got any suggestions???? Had similar problem???
chances are you are using some form of 15w-40. you can use i believe 5w-30 i think.... it is same diesel motor oil just different weight. i know in delo 400 its available.
i thought i have heard in the past the nbs trucks(99-03) have 2 gprs???????????
I will get a picture of it this weekend. The one in the back is just like the gpr 109 (except for mounting tabs are 90 degrees different), and the one in front is like 4-5" tall.
I replaced the rear one and it seems to work fine now.
My new-to-me truck just experienced this. A few weeks ago I traded in my 2000 4x4 standard cab F350 PSD for a 2000 4x4 crew cab short bed F350 PSD. I used it about 10 days ago, and did not start it again until yesterday, and it did not want to start, belched some white smoke, and finally turned over on the 3rd try. It's a lot cooler here this week than it was last week (eastern PA), so maybe I bought the truck with a bad glow plug. It has a 3 month 3000 mile warranty, so I will be calling the dealer about it directly...
Well the saga continues. I replace my GPs about a year ago and just replaced my GPR two days ago and it still cranks and doesnt kick for a while. I cycle the GPs and try to get it to start but it wont. No smoke just no go. After trying for a while (10-15min) it may finally start if i put my foot in it while cranking. Possiblity of CA fuel gelling and "clogging" the injectors?? Please help...
No Start check procedure
ˇ Scan for codes
ˇ remove chip if any.
ˇ check to see if WTS lights
ˇ check oil level and/or change if it hasn't been changed recently.
ˇ check RPMs while cranking(200 minimum)
ˇ unplug fuel heater and change #22 fuse in under hood box (even if it looks good)
ˇ check fuel pressure at FPR (30-40psi minimum)while cranking
ˇ check all VC connectors for signs of overheating
ˇ swap the 2 relays closest to fender with 2 farthest from fender in under hood fuse box
ˇ unplug ICP sensor on drivers side head and see if CEL comes on and scan again
ˇ check HPOP oil level
ˇ check HPO pressure(requires 4000psi gauge and fittings)
ˇ remove the IDM and shake it, and see if it is full of water
ˇ find someone to swap IDMs with (any year 7.3 Power stroke)
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1997 PSD 2X4 ext cab
Auto Meter C2 triple pillar gauges
Tru-Cool 4590
E40D - no mods
Coolant filter
Gutted EPV
4 inch exhaust
Tymar Air intake
When you are putting the valve covers back on, have a final look before putting the bolts in. The last time i did the glow plug thing, i just happened to hit the passenger side rear injector wire harness retainer with the valve cover. It had also knocked the wiring pigtail out of that injector too. I didn't look and when i fired it up, it had an obvious miss under 1500 rpm.
Unfortunately, i started the diagnosis with the driver's side, so i got lots of practice in r&ring the valve covers. It's pretty quick with all the extra practice. I found the best method is to set the cover in place, then lift up on the top edge and inspect the wiring. When you're satisfied all is good, bolt it down.
I will say this though, during the first test drive, a 7 cylinder engine will still run quite well at 70 mph, it was only noticible under 1500 rpms. I wonder how many unfueled cylinders would really keep these beasts from moving? Other funny thing is it never tripped the check engine light.
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2007 F-250 PSD 4x4 Supercab XLT, 6.0L, 5R110, 3.73 LSD.
1996 F-250 PSD 4x4 Supercab XLT, E4OD, 3.55 open, BFG M/T's, Dana 60 monobeam, Boss 9'2" V-XT snowplow Webshots gallery of the toys
I have attached a small photo of the glow plug relay, as seen from looking from the front of the truck. (Goto link above to see the picture)
The large terminal on the left with a rubber boot over it goes directly to the batteries. It has +12 volts all the time.
The other large terminal, without a boot, is the switched +12 volts that is fed to the glow plugs when they are supposed to be on. That current gets fed to the glow plugs through the brown and yellow wires (below). I don't know where the blue wire goes. Anybody got those factory wiring diagrams?
The smaller terminal at the bottom has no voltage when the key is off, but gets +12 volts any time the key is on, engine running or not. It is the incoming current supply for the relay's coil.
The other smaller terminal, closer to the firewall, is the other side of the relay's coil. It is looking for a ground to activate the relay. When the key is first turned on, and glow plug heat is called for by the PCM (the engine computer), the PCM outputs a ground, thereby causing current to flow through the relay's coil, activating the relay, and sending current (at +12 volts) to the glow plugs. When glow plug heat is no longer called for, the ground that is output by the PCM goes "open", causing the relay to turn off. If you put a volt meter on this pin after the relay opens, you will see +12 volts here, too. Why? The wire in the relay's coil is feeding it to your volt meter.
If you short this terminal to ground through a switch, you can manually control the current to the glow plugs any time the key is on.
Since the winter weather is usually not that cold here in Southern California, I intend to install a switch inside the cab that opens the connection to this terminal. That will allow the timer to control the glow plugs normally ONLY when I want it to. Otherwise, when I don't need the glow plugs to be heated, I'll save myself the current drain on the batteries.
You could also wire a momentary-contact push button switch in the cab and have glow plugs only when you push the button, and complete manual control if you want it. I wouldn't use a toggle switch, as it could be forgotten and the glow plugs would be on all the time. Not a good thing.
I have attached a small photo of the glow plug relay, as seen from looking from the front of the truck. (Click on link above to see picture)
The large terminal on the left with a rubber boot over it goes directly to the batteries. It has +12 volts all the time.
The other large terminal, without a boot, is the switched +12 volts that is fed to the glow plugs when they are supposed to be on. That current gets fed to the glow plugs through the brown and yellow wires (below). I don't know where the blue wire goes. Anybody got those factory wiring diagrams?
The smaller terminal at the bottom has no voltage when the key is off, but gets +12 volts any time the key is on, engine running or not. It is the incoming current supply for the relay's coil.
The other smaller terminal, closer to the firewall, is the other side of the relay's coil. It is looking for a ground to activate the relay. When the key is first turned on, and glow plug heat is called for by the PCM (the engine computer), the PCM outputs a ground, thereby causing current to flow through the relay's coil, activating the relay, and sending current (at +12 volts) to the glow plugs. When glow plug heat is no longer called for, the ground that is output by the PCM goes "open", causing the relay to turn off. If you put a volt meter on this pin after the relay opens, you will see +12 volts here, too. Why? The wire in the relay's coil is feeding it to your volt meter.
If you short this terminal to ground through a switch, you can manually control the current to the glow plugs any time the key is on.
Since the winter weather is usually not that cold here in Southern California, I intend to install a switch inside the cab that opens the connection to this terminal. That will allow the timer to control the glow plugs normally ONLY when I want it to. Otherwise, when I don't need the glow plugs to be heated, I'll save myself the current drain on the batteries.
You could also wire a momentary-contact push button switch in the cab and have glow plugs only when you push the button, and complete manual control if you want it. I wouldn't use a toggle switch, as it could be forgotten and the glow plugs would be on all the time. Not a good thing.
Pop
Last edited by ealbertson; 12-09-2005 at 09:30 PM.
When you got to Napa tell them you need a part # GRP-109. They are around $20. If you ask for one by year and model of truck youll pay closer to $60 or $70 for one.
I put a a Stancor 586-902 contactor in mine. I got it from Mouser.com for under $45. It is about 3 times the size of the stock GPR.
I have a 97 PSD and I was wondering if you knew NAPA's number for the GPR that I would need.
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I found the best method is to set the cover in place, then lift up on the top edge and inspect the wiring. When you're satisfied all is good, bolt it down.
a Stancor 586-902 contactor in mine. I got it from Mouser.com for under $45. It is about 3 times the size of the stock GPR.
