Hi everyone! I have replaced GPR, Glow plugs. Checked out the electrical to the plugs. Checked Fuse 22 as per instructed on this tread. Checked Fuel Bowl heater. All the checks were positive and good. When it is above 50 degrees(10 Degrees Cel) the motor will romp romp before it starts and then until it warms up it runs on half the cylinders. If it is plugged in it runs on all cylinders. After it is running my charging system is at the N for a long time (at least 10 to 15 minutes) before it starts charging. ( Alternator and starter are new as are the batteries) Now It is going down to 32 degrees and colder the truck starts when plugged in for at least 3hrs it will start but run on half cylinders till warmed up. If is plugged in longer it runs on all cylinders. When running my electrical system totally discharges to the point of draining the batteries, my glow plug circuit is staying open, I have to disconnect after I start not to kill the batteries. When the temp is below 14Degrees There is no way the truck will start even if plugged in (BH new as well I put a external aux Oil pan heater). I have read all the posts I thought relative and still have not been able to figure out what is wrong. Is there a temperature snsor of some sort that I do not know about? My glow plugs sequence properly as I have tested it numerous times. Did I mention that I have to use some throttle to get it started.
Any Ideas?
Hi everyone! I have replaced GPR, Glow plugs. Checked out the electrical to the plugs. Checked Fuse 22 as per instructed on this tread. Checked Fuel Bowl heater. All the checks were positive and good. When it is above 50 degrees(10 Degrees Cel) the motor will romp romp before it starts and then until it warms up it runs on half the cylinders. If it is plugged in it runs on all cylinders. After it is running my charging system is at the N for a long time (at least 10 to 15 minutes) before it starts charging. ( Alternator and starter are new as are the batteries) Now It is going down to 32 degrees and colder the truck starts when plugged in for at least 3hrs it will start but run on half cylinders till warmed up. If is plugged in longer it runs on all cylinders. When running my electrical system totally discharges to the point of draining the batteries, my glow plug circuit is staying open, I have to disconnect after I start not to kill the batteries. When the temp is below 14Degrees There is no way the truck will start even if plugged in (BH new as well I put a external aux Oil pan heater). I have read all the posts I thought relative and still have not been able to figure out what is wrong. Is there a temperature snsor of some sort that I do not know about? My glow plugs sequence properly as I have tested it numerous times. Did I mention that I have to use some throttle to get it started.
Any Ideas?
first off welcome to FTE screech. DO NOT press the go pedal when starting these trucks you can damage things!!! Do you have the GPR hooked up backwards?
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Todd
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________ '95 F-350 daully, Super Cab, 200K+ miles, 2 wd, automatic, shimmed fpr, 3" down pipe, superchip, gauges boost, EGTs, trans, and volts, missing Kitty & muffler, , Homemade tymar set-up, HPX mod, BIG bore master cylinder, and air bags in the rear
first off welcome to FTE screech. DO NOT press the go pedal when starting these trucks you can damage things!!! Do you have the GPR hooked up backwards?
Thank you 14PSD for the welcome. I do not believe so. I installed a Standen GPR and hooked up the wires in the same configuration as they were taken off. If they were backwards to begin with ( I purchased the truck with this problem) I cannot say. What is the proper order these wires have to be set up on the GPR?
screech.owl
screech here goes I believe this is correct
*One of the big terminals should come from battery should always be hot
*The red/ltgrn wire goes to the fuse box number 22
*The ppl/orange wire goes to pcm and ground at there
* the other big wire goes to glow plugs
Hopefully some one can chime in and confirm this. I haven't dealt with that part lately, I changing the gps and having a "fun" time. NOT!
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Todd
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________ '95 F-350 daully, Super Cab, 200K+ miles, 2 wd, automatic, shimmed fpr, 3" down pipe, superchip, gauges boost, EGTs, trans, and volts, missing Kitty & muffler, , Homemade tymar set-up, HPX mod, BIG bore master cylinder, and air bags in the rear
Hey all...I just wanted to say thanks for all this info...I had to go to school this morning so i walk out and go to start the truck up at 7 and it don't start! So now i got to figure out what is wrong with the thing before i leave for school...And workin on the truck is something i would rather not do at 7 in the morning But i came on this sticky and read up for a few minutes...then went out and crossed the two terminals on the GPR...had to do it a few times because the batteries were starting to die. But once i disconnected my 10K mod and my phone charger the thing started right up. Havent had a problem with it since! So thanks a bunch you guys/girls for helping a brother in need
One question...do i have to replace the GPR now? it will start on its own after sitting in school for 5 hours so i dont know what to do now. Thanks again!
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Alec Goldsmith
-1995 F-250 PSD, Extended cab, long bed, Dana 60 swap, 6637, 10k,
-1949 F-3
Member Massachusetts Chapter
Wow! this is one long (edit and very informative) thread. had to read the entire thing (while watching the Red Wings beat up on the Sharks) as I am having white smoke & no start. I suspect the GPR and not the GPs. My truck is bone stock. even has the engine cover still. so Im wondering, if after checking for voltage drop across it, the gpr is bad, do the napa gpr110s bolt right up in the stock location? cover still fits after? I've heard the cover wont fit after installing the stancor relay?
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1997 Ford F-250HD CC SB 4X4 3.55s 7.3 PSD
I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this but it is relevant to winter starting...
My truck was originally from florida where it doesn't get cold enough to use a block heater so my truck doesn't have one. I live in PA, we have cold winters where a block heater is necessary (at least for me). I'm sure the ford dealer would charge an arm and a leg for an OEM one, I saw that LMC Truck sells them cheap for the gas trucks (only $40!). I was wondering if it would work on a '97 7.3 Powerstroke or if anyone has had any experience with them?
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But i came on this sticky and read up for a few minutes...then went out and crossed the two terminals on the GPR...had to do it a few times because the batteries were starting to die. But once i disconnected my 10K mod and my phone charger the thing started right up. Havent had a problem with it since! So thanks a bunch you guys/girls for helping a brother in need
