Make sure you obtain a gpr that is not grounded to base. If it is, it will cook your ECM. You can tell if it is grounded to base by connecting your ohm meter to one of the small terminals and the other to the base plate. IF YOU GET RESISTANCE, DO NOT USE IT. Your ECM(PCM) controls the ground connection and cuts it off after a given period of time. Note: I purchased my pcm from a boat hardware store for $17, and the owner advised me that any selenoid that is not grounded to base will do the job, as starter selenoids carry much higher amperage that the expensive gpr's sold by your dealers and auto parts stores. You should be able to buy one not grounded to base for $25 at the auto parts store. Make sure it is not grounded to base, however. My sales owner is an electronics expert.
Thanks for all the info guys. My truck wouldn't start one day after white smoke startups a few days before. Couldn't make it to work, but the first thing I checked was the GPR and it was bad. Changed it and I got perfect startups. Thanks.
After reading 16 pages of this I finially got the gumption up to fix my cold start problem! I HAD been plugging it in when below 45 degrees EVERY night for the past 4(?) years! I trouble shot my extenstion cord [in another thread (bad nuetral)]. and someone mentioned the GPR. Well, 16 pages and 70 bucks later, my GP's work!!!
I know I know I did it a little bass ackwards by fixing it in the spring and not last fall but I am ready for next year!
Thanks to Everyone on this thread!
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Ian pronounced E-N just like the letters sound. 97 F350 7.3L Auto 4WD Crew Cab 195K. MODS: HOOOOGA! horn, PO MAN's air intake, Service/Utility bed, 3" DP, Testing that Cat, FPR shim (whoknows PSI), 140v IDM, 2 10K pots. US ARMY OAS, OJE-IFOR, SFOR,2,5, OJG-KFOR, OIF, OEF. To ALL that have served, THANK YOU!
I found a 97 I am looking at buying, but when I started it up it puffed white smoke for over 7-10 min. and did not stop until I took it out of the lot and got it warmed up, but when I pulled out it bellowed white smoke when I gave it the gas. It has 220,000 mile on it is there any way this might have been a valve guild issue?
Each valve cover has an electrical connection; each connector has 8 pins. The two outer pins on each side connect to the glowplugs under the cover. The center four pins connect to the injector coils. You'll need a multi meter that can measure ohms. Connect one lead (usually the balck one) to a good ground. Then probe each of the outer pins on the connector. Good glow plugs usually measure between .8 ohms to 1.5 ohms. Some may be outside of that, but won't stray too far. Bad plugs can measure anywhere above 20 ohms, for instance, when I replaced mine, I had three plugs that measured 800 ohms, two that where open or infinite resistance, and one that was around 600 ohms.
what seting to i put the meter on
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its the best
96f250 psd 280000 miles e4od with Hayden Automotive 1015 - Hayden Fluid Cooler 10k mod
BB mod 60 psi filter mod
3" down tub and opened cat muffler delete
autometer trans gauge
Let's see if I can explain this the way it was explained to me.
Disconnect the wire connectors at the valve cover (on top - there's two per bank).
There should be five pins in each connector end. Test the outer pins. They should read something ridiculously low like 0.5 ohms or less. Something around 5 - 20 ohms isn't bad either (I think).
Someone will chime in with more accurate numbers, but if you're close to these numbers, you'll be okay.
If a bank has one out of range, you might as well replace all in that bank. Identify the good ones and keep them as spares.
I was having cold-weather starting troubles last winter. Replaced the GPR during a snow storm. Three of four GPs on the right bank were bad (reading infinity) so I replaced all eight. I didn't bother with finding good ones to keep as spares. She's starting better than ever now.
Get the BERU glow plugs. I think it was the Autolites that tended to break off inside the head or swell up or something bad like that.
__________________
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1997 F-350 XLT 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed E4OD 4.10:1, 1991 Wilderness 24M
USAF SSgt 1983 - 1992, NAHC Life Member, Member: NRA and Good Sam
Homedale Rod and Gun Club Membership Committee Chairman, 1/1/2007 - Present
To those that have served, Thank You. To those that haven't served, You're Welcome.
An Issue that has not been addressed, that I noticed
I read through the majority of this thread and didn't see the issue that I am having.
First, I don't own one of these YET. I would like to. I am looking at a 94 super duty that is a retired and very tired fleet maintenance tire truck. It has a PS engine I believe based on what I have read here.
The truck starts well first thing in the morning I drove it a couple of miles and everything looked good. Parked it back at the shop and shut it down. Tried to restart it and it would not. It cranks but doesn't seem to even try to fire.
I know that it has not been "well" maintained because there was only a hint of oil on the dip stick when I looked at it yesterday.
When I drove it this morning, after them charging the batteries last night, the engine seemed solid. Not a lot of smoke, basically I couldn't tell that it was smoking at all via the mirrors. Sitting still it was clean as well. I felt that it was running well.
They mentioned that they have had the issue of it not wanting to start again once it started in the morning. Their work around was to keep it running all day.
Only 185k on the engine. I am just wanting to play with the diesel. However, I want one that I can start(I don't need a pet). I have an opportunity to get this one for not much.
Why might the truck not want to start again when it has started cold easily but won't start warm immediately after being run?
Let's see if I can explain this the way it was explained to me.
Disconnect the wire connectors at the valve cover (on top - there's two per bank).
There should be five pins in each connector end. Test the outer pins. They should read something ridiculously low like 0.5 ohms or less. Something around 5 - 20 ohms isn't bad either (I think).
Someone will chime in with more accurate numbers, but if you're close to these numbers, you'll be okay.
If a bank has one out of range, you might as well replace all in that bank. Identify the good ones and keep them as spares.
I was having cold-weather starting troubles last winter. Replaced the GPR during a snow storm. Three of four GPs on the right bank were bad (reading infinity) so I replaced all eight. I didn't bother with finding good ones to keep as spares. She's starting better than ever now.
Get the BERU glow plugs. I think it was the Autolites that tended to break off inside the head or swell up or something bad like that.
This is just what I need. My scanner reads P0380, but no one has been able to tell me which is circuit A. I will just test all my glow plugs.
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