It's been 15 to 18 degrees the last few mornings here. I don't have a block heater. I only have to crank over about 3 seconds before the engine fires up. That didn't happen with the stock GPR.Somewhere around 5 seconds before I installed the Stancor. I didn't change out the old relay, because it was bad. I swapped it out because I was told the Stancor was a much better unit, and it is. If the Stancor doesn't flow more amps, as your telling me, maybe I had a problem I didn't know about, but unknowingly fixed when I installed the Stancor. I guess there could have been corrosion on the wires I didn't see, but when I installed the new GPR, the wires are making better contact.? The wires did look clean though.Maybe the old relay could have been weak, and I didn't know it. It seemed to work fine though. At any rate, I'm not having any starting problems, and the engine does fire up sooner. I understand wires will only flow so many amps, for their size, but all I did was change GPRs, and it starts easier now.
thanks through the search here I have hopefully found the right parts I have ordered! I have a 97 F-350 4x4 and I hope I have the right ones? Please let me know ...
I bought a new GPR Stancor relay
586-902
And also 8 new Glow Plugs from Motorcraft - Part Nr. ZD-11
I bought these from Dieselfilter! They sell the plugs for 9,75 per piece! Good price I think ,....
I just traded my 93 460 F250 for a 97 7.3 PSD F250...
Problems... It has a CEL, wont start unless plugged in/over 50 degrees, and has white smoke until about 5 minutes of warm up.
Here is my diagnoisis... The CEL was on with a code that said the Glow Plugs had low voltage, according to the guy i traded with. He had replaced the GPR, so next on the list is glow plugs.
To do the glow plugs, it just requires taking the valve covers off and taking the wiring off, unscrewing the glow plugs, putting new plugs in place, and plugging them back in?
To take off the valve covers what else needs to be taken off?
I will try and get the code read tommorow after school to see if I can get a read code to maybe pin point it better.
Thanks guys
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1997 F250 PSD 4x4 5 Speed: 6637 Intake, ISSPRO Boost and Pryo, 315/75/16 A/Ts, AB 130cc Injectors
1996 Mustang GT: with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 (Race Car) 10.76@122 with a 1.52 60'
1999 28' Classic Dominator (Race Car Hauler)
"just cause its smoking, don't mean its broken"
I just replaced my GPR, and the new one froze and discharged the batteries. After puting a new one from Carquest at jobber price of $76, the wait to start light would not come on, and I did not hear the fuel pump sound. After charging , it remained the same, and the truck would not start at all. Any ideas? #2 is there a fuel reset for the pump, & where is it located?
I just replaced my GPR, and the new one froze and discharged the batteries. After puting a new one from Carquest at jobber price of $76, the wait to start light would not come on, and I did not hear the fuel pump sound. After charging , it remained the same, and the truck would not start at all. Any ideas? #2 is there a fuel reset for the pump, & where is it located?
Welcome to FTE
You came to the right place to get help for your truck. Lots of nice people here.
I assume you have a 94.5-99 Powerstroke since you posted in this forum.
Check #22 fuse under the hood, if that doesn't do it check all the fuses.
There is no fuel reset, Those are found on electric pumps only. We have a
mechanical pump that lives in the engine valley under the fuel filter cover.
You can check you fuel pressure under that cover. Look for a schrader
valve (like a tire valve). Should be about 30-50 psi while cranking...up to
50-80 psi running. You can use a cheap tire gauge. Be sure it's a cheap
one, it will be ruined after the diesel gets in it. Also, you can press on the
center, needle valve while cranking, if fuel spurts out the pump may be OK.
I am sorry if I intruded on the year of my F350. Mine is a 2000, which appears to have and in-line electric fuel pump located inside the left frame of the chasis. It is about 5 inches long and has two wires attached. Perhaps I am misinterpreting. Note: I checked all the fuses, and 1 related fuse under the dash (10 amp), #15 was burned out. I replaced that, but the electric fuel pump still does not run(which could be heard before). Also there is voltage into the gpr from the ignition switch, but, apparently it is not strong enough to engage the relay, but I can engage the relay by jumping directly from the battery. The battery voltage is 12.31 volts. All the fuses under the hood are good, including #22. Cranks the engine very well, but no attempt to fire. No wait to start light appears. The dash and the blower work fine. Could it be a damaged relay or computer?
your in the wrong fourm... Although I'm sure lots of these guys can help... 99+ PSD are a little different but not much
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1997 F250 PSD 4x4 5 Speed: 6637 Intake, ISSPRO Boost and Pryo, 315/75/16 A/Ts, AB 130cc Injectors
1996 Mustang GT: with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 (Race Car) 10.76@122 with a 1.52 60'
1999 28' Classic Dominator (Race Car Hauler)
"just cause its smoking, don't mean its broken"
Sorry, I just don't have the time to read through all this I'm at work. I have white smoke on cold start up but I just plug the truck all the time and it starts fine. If I have one or more GP that are bad but I plug it in does it matter if I don't change them?
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97 F350 PSD CC dually
Tymar intake
new complete homemade battery cables
270K miles
New FLEX A LITE 32K GVWR Tranny cooler
New heater hose T made from nice Brass fittings
work in progress
Thanks for the help. However I am selling the truck and don't want an unhappy buyer. Calling in professional help. I suspect the PCM is damaged. I don't have a diagnostic computer, and the code reader was unable to communicate with the PCM, stating there was an error. Thanks againtndiesel
try unplugging your fuel heater wire on the side of your fuel bowl. there is two on the side it is the upper one. then in the under the hood fuse box replace the #22 maxi fuse and give it a try.
Which side if the fuel bowl are the wires on also do all the diesels have them? In my factory service manual there is no mention of a fuel heater.
screech.owl
Thanks for your help screech owl. I have already tried pulling the leads to the fuel bowl heater, and I checked the heater inside the fuel bowl. I checked #22 maxi fuse both with volt meter and with ohms. Pass through the fuse was intact with both. I think the fuel bowl heater is present on all diesels, but perhaps not in hot climates. My plug is on the back of the bowl and down quite low. I have now pulled my PCM(computer) and am looking for someone who can test it off the truck, which sits where there is no ac. I opened the box, but the printed circuits are not accessible without removing the bonding material in the case. After checking everything else, I suspect the PCM--either lost its programming or a component damaged. May need a good used one that is programmed for a 2000 7.3 with automatic transmission(F350), or I may have to go for a rebuilt.
I have a 97 7.3 psd with 138K. I have an issue with my cold starts as well. I have noticed when I go to cycle the gp's, my dash volt gauge either goes to the n in normal, or just to the left of n. If it goes to the n, truck wont start. It goes to the left of n, starts right up. I just checked my gpr. I hear the click when I turn the key, but I get 12 plus volts across the big terminals no matter if if key is in or out or if gp's are cycling. Perhaps gpr is stuck or weak? I get 12 plus to one of the little terminals, and nothing to the other, when key is in on postion.
When your volt gauge is reading to the left of "N" the circuit for your GPs is being completed. That's why it starts right up. When it's reading on the "N", you say it won't start. That would make sense if you had a bad GPR. It won't complete the circuit all the time, so the gauge doesn't drop as far. The GPs won't light either. On your GPR, one of the small terminals is a ground, so you wouldn't show any power at it. Install a new GPR. That should cure your problem. You could also have a GP harness periodically grounding out, but that is doubtful, the way your gauge is reading.
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cutupsteel
