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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2008, 01:50 PM
mojoman mojoman is offline
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Originally Posted by arkredneck View Post
ok i checked all my wiring harness and fixed the burnt ones replaced all glow plugs got new injectors and it still smokes on start up and the glow plug relay is good anything else that can cause white smoke?

tho no pro I'd say white smoke is unburnt fuel...I have the same prob...injectors in my trucks future...like next spring...plug it in and it will start faster and warm up quicker...just my .02



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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2008, 08:53 PM
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OK, question. Been having some rough issues getting my truck to start when it's cold out (50f or below). When it finally starts, there's one heck of a cloud of white smoke. So, I started with the easiest and quickest part swap, the GPR. No change whatsoever. I also have purchased new glow plugs, just haven't had the time to install. When the truck is cold, it can take anywhere from 10-20 minutes to start. I turn the key on, wait till the WTS light goes off, and then wait a few more seconds before cranking. Still takes a long time. Am I on the wrong path in changing the glow plugs? This truck has 250K+ on it, and don't know the previous maintenance or replacement of parts. Ideas?

Oh, and thanks to all who have contributed to this post, this is probably the most important post on the site, especially considering the time of year and weather.

Chad

AND, if I plug the truck in over night, it fires right up. At what temp should you have to plug your truck in in order for it to start? 50f seems a little warm to have to plug it in, but I'm still new at the diesel game.
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2008, 09:28 PM
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monkee, sounds like you got some dead glow plugs.

as for mojo and ark, white smoke is perfectly normal on a 7.3, watch these videos of my truck. i gurantee you that all of my glow plugs are functional, my relay works and my motor is healthy.


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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 12:25 AM
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thats baby smoke coon. You cant see any thing when i start up. Looks like i have a smoke machine for about thte first 60 seconds. I'll try and take video of it some time when ever my camera gets back it broke
It was always smokey but with the stage 2s it really smokes you out and has a cammed sound to it like drag cars. Sounds just liek a semi idling after a cold start
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 06:59 AM
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i don't know if it would make a difference but you got a 18k mod with a chip could that be the problem?
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by wmiller View Post
thats baby smoke coon. You cant see any thing when i start up. Looks like i have a smoke machine for about thte first 60 seconds. I'll try and take video of it some time when ever my camera gets back it broke
It was always smokey but with the stage 2s it really smokes you out and has a cammed sound to it like drag cars. Sounds just liek a semi idling after a cold start


x2. If my good camera had any battery left I'd shoot a vid of mine starting at 10 degrees out. Sounds like a she's got a huge cam. I have bigger nozzles plus the 10K that pushes a lot of fuel that the computer doesn't know about.

WMiller if you don't get a vid I'll get some battery's tonight and take a vid.
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 06:53 PM
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the 2's with icp commanding more oil is the cause of the camming, i love that sound!
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 08:45 PM
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Im actually took the 18k out didnt think there was much need with bigger sticks and am running with out the chip (tony is reburning it) It should be back tomorrow cant wait.
I wont have my camera for prob 2-3 weeks. Im hoping i can get it back my christmas but we'll see
I agree with the cammed sound. It sounds BA. Anyone think you could make tune that didit all the time?
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 10:08 PM
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Ok guys I am sorry if I missed it but I read threw it and I can't find a link for where to get the stancore Upgraded Relay and will this Bigger Relay bolt right up to where the other one is.
Thanks
Nick
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by weekendwarriorfsw32 View Post
Ok guys I am sorry if I missed it but I read threw it and I can't find a link for where to get the stancore Upgraded Relay and will this Bigger Relay bolt right up to where the other one is.
Thanks
Nick
This is a newer (15V) one that was found by someone else:

Stancor / White-Rodgers - 586-903 - Allied Electronics

The other one (12V) is 586-902.
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 10:55 PM
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wes, i do beleive tony has a "lope" tune. i thik he renamed them a while back it used to be called "smoke" or "aggressive" something along those lines...... basicly he commands lots of fuel right off idle just to load up and smoke. it should have a good lope to it
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2008, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
This is a newer (15V) one that was found by someone else:

Stancor / White-Rodgers - 586-903 - Allied Electronics

The other one (12V) is 586-902.
Where will this fit in a 95 f250 PSD?
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2008, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by weekendwarriorfsw32 View Post
Where will this fit in a 95 f250 PSD?

This might help you..Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page.
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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2008, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
This is a newer (15V) one that was found by someone else:

Stancor / White-Rodgers - 586-903 - Allied Electronics

The other one (12V) is 586-902.
I don't think that I would want to use the 15v model. What's you're voltage when the GPs are energized and you are cranking? Somewhere around 11 to 11.5 volts?

I would be concerned that the 15v model will begin to chatter at that voltage. Every time the contacts close, there is a small amount of arcing that happens. If the relay chatters, there is going to be a lot of arcing and that will burn the internal contacts out prematurely.
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2008, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by guzzle92 View Post
I don't think that I would want to use the 15v model. What's you're voltage when the GPs are energized and you are cranking? Somewhere around 11 to 11.5 volts?

I would be concerned that the 15v model will begin to chatter at that voltage. Every time the contacts close, there is a small amount of arcing that happens. If the relay chatters, there is going to be a lot of arcing and that will burn the internal contacts out prematurely.
So what would you recomnd for the 95 then? Stock?
Thanks
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