After plugging in the block heater the truck started with no problem after about two hours. I guess the oil is te problem. I just changed the oil a few weeks ago, and as a rookie I filled it with 15w. I had no idea that the oil could make a difference as far as cold starting.
I am having the same cold start problem with my early '99 PSD (actually a '98) as most of you here, but, with a little different twist. I'll explain.
Based on what I have read on this thread and past experience, I decided to replace my GPR. I tested it first by checking voltage at the terminals with a test light, seemed to checkout good. Decided to replace it anyway, just for giggles, after reading a post saying that it still could be bad. Don't know yet if it fixed the problem, I'm letting it set for awhile to make sure it is good and cold. I'll let you know later.
I thought, while I'm under the hood, I might as well check the GPs while I'm at it using the ohmeter method. Having read some posts about 5 wires and 8 wires on the VC connector, I figured that it shouldn't be too hard. Well, I got my ohmeter ready, climbed back up on the truck to proceed. I went to the VC connector, looked at it, counted the wires, seems I have 9 wires on my connectors. I counted them both again, just to make sure. Yep, 9 wires. What's up with that? Can anyone shed some light on that? I assume that the end wires are still for the GPs. Also, they only mention checking the 2 end wires. Do the 2 wires split and go to 2 GPs each? Intriguing minds want to know.
Thanks in Advance,
Ted
I am having the same cold start problem with my early '99 PSD (actually a '98) as most of you here, but, with a little different twist. I'll explain.
Based on what I have read on this thread and past experience, I decided to replace my GPR. I tested it first by checking voltage at the terminals with a test light, seemed to checkout good. Decided to replace it anyway, just for giggles, after reading a post saying that it still could be bad. Don't know yet if it fixed the problem, I'm letting it set for awhile to make sure it is good and cold. I'll let you know later.
I thought, while I'm under the hood, I might as well check the GPs while I'm at it using the ohmeter method. Having read some posts about 5 wires and 8 wires on the VC connector, I figured that it shouldn't be too hard. Well, I got my ohmeter ready, climbed back up on the truck to proceed. I went to the VC connector, looked at it, counted the wires, seems I have 9 wires on my connectors. I counted them both again, just to make sure. Yep, 9 wires. What's up with that? Can anyone shed some light on that? I assume that the end wires are still for the GPs. Also, they only mention checking the 2 end wires. Do the 2 wires split and go to 2 GPs each? Intriguing minds want to know.
Thanks in Advance,
Ted
Early '99 (BD 2-98) F250 PSD
Yep what Bill said. You have a 99 so you have 1 9 pin connector at each valve cover. the 2 outside pins on each end are your 4 GP's pins. The 94.5 to 97 trucks have 2 five pin connectors on each valve covers thats why the confusion.
__________________ Tim
1997 F-350 CC 4x4 PSD Auto 260K
I will keep My Money, My Guns, My home and My Family. YOU KEEP YOUR CHANGE!!
Yep what Bill said. You have a 99 so you have 1 9 pin connector at each valve cover. the 2 outside pins on each end are your 4 GP's pins. The 94.5 to 97 trucks have 2 five pin connectors on each valve covers thats why the confusion.
First, thanks for such a quick response.
So, is it the 2 outside pins on each end of the plug, or just 1 on each end?
Thanks again
Ted
The tips tend to expand with use so when you go to remove them the tips break off remaining stuck in the hole in the head and from what I heard it can be a real pita to remove.
__________________
1994 F350 CC Dually
7.3 DI TURBO DIESEL
5 SPEED
HPX, FPR shimmed, Edge
Intake, Downpipe, Cat delet
Hi everyone, and thank you in advance for your help and responses.
2003 F350 7.3 PS >>
Ok I have read a number of the post here and I think I have a good Idea of what my problem is but here it is in full...
I have been having a startup issue that just started in the past few weeks, >>
When it is cold out let say below 40 degrees if I don't have my truck plugged in I have to cycle my glow plugs at least three times and if I am lucky it will start. >>
But when it don't start which is most of the time I cycle them again try it over, as I am cranking there is white smoke coming from the exhaust and from under the hood, Now this part is what is really getting me I stop cranking and then I wait for about ten to twenty seconds and I hear a " PWOOOFF" sound and white smoke shoots out of the exhaust, now mind you the noise and the white smoke are before I try to turn over the engine again, I am just sitting there. Then when I do turn over the engine it starts and a ton of smoke both white and black pile out until the truck warms up a bit. >>
If I have my truck plugged in all is fine and no problems. >>
What is the problem and what can I do to fix it? >>
You have a few glow plugs that aren't working. The pwoof sound you hear is a glow plug finally getting hot enough to light the fuel in the one cylinder. YOur relay may be getting weak or you have a few GP's out. or a combination of both. Weak batteries could also contribute to the problem.
__________________ Tim
1997 F-350 CC 4x4 PSD Auto 260K
I will keep My Money, My Guns, My home and My Family. YOU KEEP YOUR CHANGE!!
Replace your Glow Plug Relay. The wooosh is diesel fuel igniting in the cylinders from the heat of the glow plugs. The cycling of the GPR makes a good contact for a second so you get good current for a second. Easy fix.
__________________
1997 Powerstoke 7.3L Turbo Diesel 4X4
3" to 4" downpipe, 4" stainless exhaust, superchips programmer, boost, pyro, & trans temp gauges, 6637 filter, 203* thermostat
Yes, it does sound good!
TRUCK IS PARKED DUE TO DIESEL PRICES. CURRENT TRANSPORTATION IS A 600CC MOTORCYCLE
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Wondering whats up with that?
