idm is the silver metal box on the firewall that has the wireing harness that runs from the valve covers coming back to. its a 6x8 ish box about 1.5" thick. theres a relay in the fuse box that feeds it i dont have my manual with me i dont remember which relay it is.

has he checked for any other sensors that he may have popped loose?

 

The only metal box he can find is a powertrain control module-

but all the specs match what you say: silver, same dimensions, ect. Is this it? The rest of the boxes are plastic. He says the wires running from that silver box though go to the fuse box.

He says he can't check the relay till that guy gets there with that machine. Hope he comes soon.

Tom said he got out of bed last night with a flashlight to make sure no other things had come loose.

Daggone it. This is tough. Hope that guy with the code checker thing comes soon-

 

that is acutally the idm the pcm is underneath the ebrake frame in the lower part of the fender.

i dont have my manual with me ill look tonight to see what else wont let the injectors fire.

 

10-4, jake- I thought it was too- he thought wrong.

He says he really doesn't know how to test the idm, there's a ton of wires coming out and he has no idea where to start. He is so sure the guy coming with the computer can figure it out.

I am skeptical, of course-

I'll keep ya'll posted; at this point I'm sure you may be as curious as we are as to what the problem may be.

If you see anything in the manual we've looked over, please let us know.

 

Gettin' desperate here.

Codes given by that guy were PO113 and PO476 and that the truck was "thinking" it was -40 degrees outside.

He went to dealership and they told him the ipr, vpwr, icp and rpm were not operating at whatever percent they should be-

He wants to let the dealership fix it and I about fainted.

I went back to the water pump and said "This happened when you took the water pump off and put the new one on- there must be a correlation-"

He's getting grumpy with me and I with him-

Now he wants it towed 60 miles away to the Int'l Dealer-

Any last parting thoughts for me?

 

I'm no expert on '95s but I hate to see anyone go to a stealership if they don't need to. Here's some info I have on the codes. It may be slightly different for your '95.

P0113 = IAT (Intake Air Tempurature) sensor circuit has high input.
The IAT sensor is located in or near the air intake filter behind the left side battery. Mine looks like a tiny red thermometer protected by a plastic loop. Is in unplugged, damaged or missing? Sometimes it get moved if an aftermarket intake filter is installed.

P0476 indicates an exhaust back pressure control valve performance malfunction was detected during KOER On-Demand Self Test.
Possible causes:
-stuck or damaged turbocharger exhaust back pressure valve.
Visually inspect turbocharger EBPV valve for open position. If closed REPAIR condition causing valve to be stuck closed. RESTORE system. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
-misadjusted or damaged linkage
-restricted exhaust
-exhaust leaks
-damaged PCM
-EPR valve
-EBP sensor

The EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve) is located on the exhaust side of the turbo. The way this stuff works together is the IAT senses the tempurature of the air going into the intake and tells this to the "computer" controlling the engine. If it's real cold when starting the engine, the computer controling the engine, closes the EBPV valve to create back pressure in the exhaust which is suppose to heat up the engine a bit faster. After the engine is warm, or the gas pedal in pushed, this valve is suppose to open up. Unless it's real cold, 20*F lets say, the EBPV is not needed. In fact many people disconnect the valve/solenoid so it doesn't get stuck in a closed position. It needs to be in the open position. I do beleive you still need the IAT sensor connected or it will cause problems because the "computer" is looking for that tempurature input.

To reset the codes (and the engine computer), disconnect the batteries for 1/2 hour. Turn the head lights on while the batteries are disconnected to fully drain any residual charge in the system. Reconnect the batteries and start as normal.

Good luck and sorry if this is too late.

 

AWESOME INFORMATION, STROKER2!

I do have some good news!

He turned the ignition to "on" and went and looked under the hood and lo and behold he saw smoke coming from the wiring harness on top of the motor- he wiggled it and tried to start it again and...

IT STARTED!

So it's obviously shorting out somewhere there- is it possible to replace that whole mess of wires in one swoop?

I am also going to copy and paste your info, stroker2, and send to him via Mom's e-mail ASAP.

THANKS SO MUCH, EVERYONE! From the bottom of my heart! If we have anything to add we sure will update you-

 

He may not need the whole harness. Might just be the connector where the harness plugs in through the valve cover....but at any rate, yes, those harness's can be repaired or replaced.

 

they cost about 450 dollars at ford!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Holy cow!!!! That would be strong motivation for me to leave the harness in place and rebuild the connectors.

 

that was all the MOTIVATION i needed to track the repair kit down

 

good to hear it goin. least it was something dumb instead of a cooked idm....